DumbDawg

My Feedback: (3)

I asked over on RC world and didn't get a reply so maybe here.

I'm a noob to RC and helo's so I'm try'n to ask before I get into to much trouble. I KNOW that 'accidents' are an inevitable part of flying.

I'm going to stay with the wooden main blades as I can see smack'n them a few times and have to replace'm. My first question is this... Should I upgrade the broken bits from plastic or stick to the plastic until I'm not really breaking them anymore. Then go to cnc after??

I am upgrading the motor ans esc right away as it died already almost out of the box. So I have on order 2 different motor... 1 to use and a backup. I have a 3900 and a 4200kv motors and 30A esc(programmable) coming. Someone suggested putting a 15A mini fuse inline power to the esc to spare the esc from ever being cooked... Good idea maybe someone here can say otherwise and why not??

I also am looking at two other upgrades and want to know whether they will work or not. One is a 72mhz, Corona 6ch dual conversion receiver, RD62011.... will this work and is it a simple re&re. Comes with an RX crystal.

The other is an Orange Futaba GY401 gyro or a Black Futaba GY401(settings on top of gyro) Gyro. Will these simple pop onto the bird, plug'm in and go like stank or some mods necessary or straight up not at all???

Thats all I want for christmas.... that and another bird... a gasser... vroom vroom vrrooomm

lohchief

It works just fine on the king II.I got one,and use it.Much easier for me then trusting to my not-so-good eyesight.Also a bit faster (for me) then trial and error.The king II and 450 both have a 5mm mainshaft.
-lohchief

sheerider1026

so you would reccomend it?? does your heli hover a lot better now?? i was thinking about getting the cnc upgrade kit and was thinking of using the swash tool to set it up.. was your swash farther out of wack than you thought after using the tool?

boatchief

Tail gyro or TX setup problems everything I try to adjust and the issue does'nt go away. When I spin up tail starts to drift not the always the same direction I go to compensate and the movement stops for a second then heli starts to piro at extreme speed in the direction of compensation I then try to stop piro and the only thing that has worked is to throttle all the way back to a stop. It does this in HH and rate modes.

P.S. Telebee gyro, DX7 TX

cklking

I have Fut. gy240 it does great. I didn't touch left stick in this youtube video. There may be a problem with your gyro. Charles[link]http://youtube.com/watch?v=xKwLnvDCFHI[/link]

GTX SlotCar

Mine has done this before (Telebee, stock Rx, Eclipse7 Tx) and it was a wrong combination having something to do with Rev. rudder and Rev. gyro. It wasn't bad spinning up on the floor, but once I lifted off, the tail would start into a drift. When I tried to compensate, it would really start to spin.
I took the gyro out of the circuit and made sure the rudder was working right. Then I plugged the gyro in and changed the normal/reverse switch and the problem went away.

What happens when you change the reverse switch on the gyro?

boatchief

Thank you GTX it still took me a little to get it but now it is rock steady first hover with all the upgrades super smooth before I was lucky to hover in a 3 foot square 3 feet off the ground now 1 foot square 1 foot off the ground.

gene465

My Feedback: (10)

Ok, there are way too many pages to thumb through at the moment. Let me throw this out for the collective here. I have a HBK2 brushless enroute. I currently have the Belt CP and Trex 450XL. I know the belt CP and the HBK2 share the same head. What I would like to know from someone who has done this mod is when my Aluminum head and tail come in for my Trex I am planning on putting the existing semi aluminum head on either my Belt CP or HBK2 Leaning on the HBK2 atm. So the question is will the Trex 450 rotor head and shaft fit on the HBK2? I know the swashplate is different but planning on using this swashplate http://www.helidirect.com/product_in...roducts_id=865 and just switch the anti rotation bar with the front ball. With this swap out it will also give me the extra HBK2 head for use as a spare for the Belt CP. The HBK2 will be my foul weather indoor flyer and the Trex and Belt CP for outside. I plan on keeping the belt cp stock. Also what are the longest blades anyone has used on the HBK2? If I put the Trex head on the HBK2 will the align 315's work? If there are no shorter blades that fit the align blade grips maybe I am better off putting them on the Belt CP and using the 315's on it instead. Any guidance as I commence to reading the 140+ pages on this thread? Thanks All! Gene

crashcrash

The shaft is the same diameter but length (???), that will be the question. If you put 315's on the HBKII, you'll be very disappointed with the performance...even 288mm on the HBKII stink(IMO).

choppersrule

gene465,

I agree with Crash, longer blades on the HBK2 will not help performance. It puts undo strain on the motor in the long run. Hovering may improve, but keep in mind, that the design of the HBK2 is what's the best. If you're running a brushless motor, hope you are, the best bang for the buck is the 43 tooth pulley. Then CNC stuff for the main rotor, grips and tail assembly. Awesome with it all.

Dave / Choppersrule

gene465

My Feedback: (10)

Thanks Crash, Chopper with that being said maybe I will just put the Trex head on the Belt CP then since it takes the longer blades and keep the head on it for a spare for the HBK2. Dave I am running the Brushless on it I know how bad the stock motor is! Is the 43t pulley a esky part and do I need a longer belt then? New to the HBK2, should have it by Tues! Which is the best battery to use for best flight time and balance? I will inbetween things at work today start my long read of this thread, I should get alot of the answers I am pestering you all on right now Gene

lohchief

Here's what ya need.
http://www.ushobbysupply.com/product...roducts_id=500
-lohchief

crashcrash

The 43T comes with a longer belt. According to "Choppersrule"...the CNC head and tail upgrade on the HBKII is a GOOD investment, as is the 43T conversion. Stability and control improves dramatically. In that particular light, I don't consider it to be "bling", I consider it an upgrade that enhances performance. As far as main rotor blades....it's hard to do better than the stock 275 woodies. Tail rotor blades...I really liked the HDX450 tail rotor blades, it's an improvement over stock and response is a lot better (in addition to the 43T....you should get awsome results).

boatchief.....glad you got the gyro issue nailed down. I didn't think of the reverse switch because the 0704A HHG don't have a reverse switch (LOL). That's why I had to mount it standing and had it rearward with the rudderplug on the port side. It took some screwing around to figure it out (LOL). Like EVERYTHING with these heli's, you got to mess with the settings till you make it happy.

gene465

My Feedback: (10)

lohchief and crash thanks for the info! Up to around page 12! (Sigh) long way to go yet! I also have an extra Eflite G90 gyro would that be better than the stock Gyro? Yup still more questions! [sm=50_50.gif]

osterizer

I'm curious about the 43T pulley. I'm still using the pulley that came on my K2 almost exactly a year ago, and I've never had a problem with tail authority. I have the full aluminum head, and I'm running SAB CFs at just under 3000 RPM in aero right now, but I've run it as low as 2100 with the 3100 motor- hardly aerobatic in that configuration, but not intended to be.

If I had the stock plastic tail, I'd be concerned about raising the tail speed at 3000 RPM, and it's plainly unnecessary if you raise the system speed overall, so the increased power required would just be wasted. All I've heard so far on the matter is that the 43T pulley is a no brainer mod, though, and I don't think that's the case.

choppersrule

Osterizer,

I've been flyin' the HBK2 for 8 months now, just in the last month, I added all the CNC stuff, head, grips, tail, the whole 9 yards.
A few week ago, I investigated the 43T pulley, hmmmm, what it actually does is bring it up to a standard ratio of 1:4.2. With the stock pulley, I didn't have any problems either. But for 16 bucks, I went ahead and purchased one. Takes about 35 minutes to install. The kit comes with a longer belt that is required and also, new idlers. (But I didn't use them, the stocks are okay) Make a long story short, if you think yours is rock solid now, try one of the 43T pulleys. I was very impressed with it, snap turns are much faster and more responsive, thus giving you Better tail authority, the stock pulley, again is okay. But the 43T is better. I wouldn't be concerned about the plastic tail housing, the rotor shaft is spinning in the bearings anyway. Actually, in a stable hover, there is very little laterial pressure on the housing. The power increase is not wasted, it gives you quicker tail response. I've had a host of helis in the last three years, including a Trex, But I really like the heck out of the HBK2, I also have the Belt-Cp and a Logo 10.

Hope that helped ya understand the reason for the upgrade.

Oh, and the SAB CF blades you have are great, had a pair, until I smashed 'em up. Carbon fiber blades are the best in performance, hands down. No woodies or plastic crap can compare to them.



This is directly from the manufacture of the Xtreme 43t pulley
Most professional RC helicopters out there use a ratio right around 1:4.3 and the Honey Bee
King 2 stock is only 1:3.2. This new kit brings the stock ratio up to the 1:4.3, giving you the tail
rotor speed to keep the tail "Rock Solid". That's an over 25% more power from your tail rotor

Couple o' pictures,

Dave / Choppersrule

choppersrule

Gene,

I see that your question about the 43t pulley has already been answered. So with your next question. Best battery. Hmmm, I use several, 950 and 1500 mAh at 15C, plus an 1800 mAh at 20C. Actually you could use the same batteries from your Belt-Cp. So, you have the best of both worlds. The 20C batteries gives you just awesome power. I generally don't push my batteries at all, makes 'em last ALOT longer. Usually, I fly about 7 minutes and my brain needs the rest before the batteries.. I've got 6 batteries and 6 chargers. So, I've always have a fresh one. Tip: Always keep a fire extinguisher handy.

Dave / Choppersrule

gene465

My Feedback: (10)

Chopper thanks for the info, but I am running the 2100 megapower 3s batts in both my Trex and Belt CP the next biggest I have are 1350 MP. Are the 1800's or the 1500's the best packs for flight times and CG on the HBK2? I like using the same ones so I don't have to retrim for different battery sizes. Any idea on the Gyro the stock one or the G90? Thanks Gene

stump3r

Gene, my 1800's balance the King very nicely. Good power and nice flight times.

osterizer

Thanks, Dave. I understand the difference in ratios; my concern isn't about the shaft, but rather the centrifugal force on the grips at the higher speeds- many plastic helis have issues with throwing tail rotors due to overspeeding the grips; I've done that on another heli, and it really messed up the helis performance in the short remainder of the flight . With the metal grips, that's not a concern, so the only other factor I would want to think through is power used. The tail uses a surprisingly high percentage of the power required to drive the heli, and increasing the rotational speed by 30% increases the power requirement by 50% or more.

I'm not aiming for a pinwheeling piro, btw- mine will do 3 or 4 R/s either direction, which is quite sufficient for me and quite a bit more than you'll use in any other aerobatics besides piros. I have about 9 degrees collective and 5 degrees cyclic pitch (may sound to some, but it's not at 3K ), and I can do a full cyclic/full collective loop from FFF and the tail stays planted all the way through. There's no issue with pitch pumps and the like, either. <shrug> That's pretty much what I'm looking for in tail control, and it's sufficient with the stock ratio- that was my point about wasting power, that I wouldn't get any more of what I want, since I have what I need already. Tail performance also depends on other things- I'm using 450-sized rotors and a GY401/S3154 for control, which make a large difference, too.

Anyway, I'm not trying to debate the relative absolute merits of the mod. I wanted to point out that in this as with most mods, one size perhaps doesn't fit all.

choppersrule

Gene,
You may want to hold off and try your 2100 battery in it. If it's to big or the CG is way off, then either the 1500 or 1800 is fine.
I just tried both in my HBK2 and checked for CG. The 1800, makes is just a hair nose heavy, but can be trimed out quickly on the TX.
If you're looking for extra power, get the 20C's. Flight time, hard for me to give you a definate answer on that, the longest I fly is 10 minutes and still have plenty battery left, usually about 7 mintues flight for me and I have to give my toasted brain a break.
I don't do any 3d at all, but I'm very agressive in close quarters with snap 90's and moving around. Hovering after a few minutes isn't as much fun, although you don't break anything that way. I challenge myself by flying only 4 to 6 inches off the ground.
Sometimes I have to WOW myself, saying that was pretty cool!

Anymore questions, shoot 'em out here,

Dave / Choppersrule

lohchief

I think that really depends on how you want to fly your bird.If your into 3d,you'll want a lot more head speed then you would use for scale flying,(which is what I'm into)so you don't really need that kind of tail speed.I want to keep my headspeed in the 2000rpm range,as such the 43t conversion works very well,especially for scale.For 16 bux,money well spent imho.
-lohchief

osterizer

That makes perfect sense to me, Chief.

choppersrule

Osterizer,

Points very well taken, plastic grips and power consumption. Neither item had I thought about, I'm more mechanically inclined on the heli with set-up and some electrical problems. You could give me a HBK2 in a bag of parts and I could put it together in nothing flat. God knows, I've done it enough times crashing already. Oh, and I am running with metal grips. Nice thing about the forum, is that we're always learning something. And as my mother always said, "Whatever melts your butter" Your right, we each have our own likes and dislikes, and always trying to improve our skills and helis performance.
Thanks for that info, enlightening,
Dave / Choppersrule

crashcrash

Hey....try the G90. it might work well, who knows. Got to be better than the supplied rate gyro. I'm running the E-Sky 0704A HHG on my MX-400, it works fine.