osterizer

Only some ESCs have programming cards. Some can only be programmed through the transmitter (like your ESky), and others have direct computer hookups (Castle, for example).

Hati

Cool. Now it's just a matter of how to do it via the transmitter. I just got the motor and ESC. The chinglish manual does mention brake on and off mode and to throttle up when plugging the ESC in and down while it's beeping. How to actually change brake status is a total mystery.

xodarap1

Hati, read through this:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=641229

Hati

Thank you xodarap1, solved the mystery.

court461

Nice recap Hati, definetely good for beginners. I too read through the thread when I started, would have been nice to get the executive summary. Are you really in Afghanistan? Hard to get parts there?

crashcrash

Hey...for the new guys who are hovering OK or just learning or even just starting FF. The below listed blades are pretty good and can take a hit fairly well compared to woodies. Not designed for 3D, but are robust and contribute to stability which makes them ideal for learning. I did actually break a set once, but I hit a 6" diameter POLE in the basement (LOL). He just got a shipment in. I've only had to buy 2 sets in a years time....that's pretty good:

http://www.ushobbysupply.com/product...roducts_id=473

If you do get those blades....you're gonna need a stronger feathering shaft, I recommend these as a side order to the blades:

http://www.ushobbysupply.com/product...roducts_id=380

The only drawback is if you do have a good hit with those blades and shafts, stuff in the rotorhead are going to break. BUT parts in the rotorhead are cheap compared to 4-5 sets of stock woodies. I use the blades and the shafts (even in my MX-400). I'm never down for blades or feathering shafts. In other words, a minor tip-over or minor contact with an obstruction will not cripple your heli, you'll still be able to fly because minor hits....stuff don't normally break. All is just my opinion, results may vary depending on the severity of use (LOL).

flyinsolo11

Why is it that those are cheaper than the woodies?

Optimus110103

My Feedback: (5)

One thing has to be said, the tough as nail feathering shaft, is a bit longer than the stock shafts, and if you don't grind a small amount off of the ends of the shaft, it will hit on the xtreme blades, no matter how loose you leave the feathering shaft. trust me I know from experience.

homeunt

My Feedback: (3)

I think I'm gonna get some of those soon or later

how do you grind them? and do you know if they are fine with woodies and cf?

Optimus110103

My Feedback: (5)

They fit fine on the woodies, I have never used carbon blades, so I cant answer that. I used my dremel to grind the shaft. well, I don't have a dremel I use a black and decker rotary tool. Fter the first shaft though, I just used the tool to grind the ends down on the actual blades, because the shafts are really tough to grind.

Hati

Nahh, not at all, I live in Perth, Western Oz. Remote enough to be a pain waiting for parts. I do get sick of the usual questions when you register on a forum so just leave some of the stuff on default, such as the country .

While on the subject of recap, I read (here and a couple of other heli forums) a lot about Idle Up switch, but no one actually defined it properly, can be confusing for a noob. Here is what I think it does, feel free to correct me:

Switching Idle Up on will lock the RPM of the motor, therefore the head-speed. It will then change the function of the throttle stick from RPM and pitch (idle up is OFF) to pitch only (idle up is ON), where you control the altitude of the heli by changing the pitch of the main blades. This is a necessity to perform any kind of 3D, as an inverted hover (for example) requires negative pitch in order to create trust away from heli's body (i.e. up-draft if you like) to cancel out gravity.

This is by any standard an oversimplified description, purely to explain the function of Idle Up, in plain "noob-eese". Obviously fixed head-speed is a relative term as changing rotor blade pitch will inevitably effect RPM due to forces involved at different pitch angles. I guess an infinite torque motor could keep the RPM "locked", but we have no such luxury on a small electric heli.

One other thing I was contemplating for a while: most of the ESCs I saw had heat-shrink covering the heat sink. My electrical and electronic experience screams "inefficient" every time I see it, so I was considering cutting as large a rectangle into the heat-shrink surface (on the heat sink side) as possible without causing the rest of the heat-shrink coming off, to facilitate better cooling.

Any comments guys?

crashcrash

As mentioned....I've ground the blades on the root side to make them work better also for folding the blades. You can use a standard bench grinder to shorten the shafts if needed....I've never had to shorten the shaft.

homeunt

My Feedback: (3)

I lack the machinery...
I guess I'll have to use regular feathering shafts for plastics

osterizer

That's pretty close. It doesn't actually lock the RPM/throttle, but rather uses a V-curve (less throttle at center stick than at the ends) to try and keep the RPM fairly constant. And normal mode, of course, does in fact vary the pitch to control altitude. With a programmable radio, most people set their throttle curves to try and keep a constant head speed in normal as well as idle ups (it's a constant annoyance that RTF vendors don't put better throttle curves in the stock radios!). It's a lot more pleasant to fly if the head speed isn't going up and down. Anyway, it isn't really necessary to have infinite torque to have a pretty consistent head speed, just a decent throttle curve or governor .

osterizer

That's pretty close. It doesn't actually lock the RPM/throttle, but rather uses a V-curve (less throttle at center stick than at the ends) to try and keep the RPM fairly constant. And normal mode, of course, does in fact vary the pitch to control altitude. With a programmable radio, most people set their throttle curves to try and keep a constant head speed in normal as well as idle ups (it's a constant annoyance that RTF vendors don't put better throttle curves in the stock radios!). It's a lot more pleasant to fly if the head speed isn't going up and down. Anyway, it isn't really necessary to have infinite torque to have a pretty consistent head speed, just a decent throttle curve or governor .

Hati

Thanks osterizer, I guess will have to play with various curves when I get my DX6i. So little time and so much to learn

osterizer

People keep telling me that tinkering with that kind of thing is half the fun

chris1379

I just wanted to add something about the Xtreme plastic blades. The description says, "This blade generates a larger lifting force than the stock woodies. Some hovering trim knob adjustment may be required." I don't know about more lift but they are heavier. Make sure you increase the throttle curve or decrease the pitch curve. If you don't, your motor may pull too much current resulting in cooked lipos or other components. I use these with the stock feathering shafts and have not bent one without a blade strike. Feathering shafts are cheaper than blades or other head parts. I do agree that they are a PIA to change.[:@]

Chris

crashcrash

I agree about the weight...they are heavier. As far as lift....even though I owned a couple sets, I can't say. Because of the weight you loose headspeed and it does cause the battery and motor to run warmer than with woodies. But for learning.....they just hold up better giving more learning time. Plus because of weight, the heli runs more stable.

Hati

Reading these comments the ideal solution seems to be the CF blades (and not just for this heli) assuming a relatively crash free pilot. Is that correct?

osterizer

Pretty much. Not because of the CF characterisitics, though. Some kind of FRP is going to come out on top because it is lighter and stiffer than can be accomplished with woodies or simple molded plastic, and the airfoils and surface characteristics of the better blades can't be done with shrinkwrap. Beyond that, the market pays more for carbon, so all the really good blades are done with that material. There are some good woodies out there, and FG also, but none are as good as my regular blades.

chris1379

I think most experts would agree with that but beginners (like me) are not crash free. Crashcrash is right that the plastic blades are great for learning. I'm still using them and will be for a while. I just wanted to caution people about adjusting your settings. I believe on the stock radio, you just need to adjust the hover pitch. Would everyone agree on having 5 deg pitch at 85-95% power at hover for these blades? What I was trying to say is don't try to hover at 50-60% power or you'll likely pull too much juice.

Chris

sheerider1026

ok guys, i just got my brushless setup in the mail today from china(must have sent it over via mayflower) so its all together and i love it.. very smooth!! i got the esky 3100 and esky esc.. will my stock 10c battery handle this?? i also have a 15c battery i did use and it got warm to the touch.. should i be ok using the 10c?? i assume that a 25c is the best correct?

Optimus110103

My Feedback: (5)

Very creative, way too much time on his hands.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbJLQ...eature=related

sheerider1026

lol definately so!!! i didn;t think that would be possible... lmfao... hilarious.. that reminds me of my weirdo neighbor!!