Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
07-19-2008, 04:16 PM
#5001
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
Where is it colliding with the frame? If it's the screw holes, then lengthening them by a couple mm won't hurt durability too much- without any Dremeling at all, the frame breaks there in a hard crash anyway
.
ORIGINAL: hamid_fireage
The problem is the pinion I think. 9T is not big enough to touch the main gear and I dont wanna dremel this poor plastic air frame to let it break more easily in a crash. I post some pictures I think theyre better than my english
ORIGINAL: Bones27
Hamid, I'm not sure I completely understand what you are describing so take this for what it's worth. Could you take a Dremel tool or small file and elongate the holes and shaft slot just a little to get more adjustability? If you have the capability, post a pic for us to look at.
Hamid, I'm not sure I completely understand what you are describing so take this for what it's worth. Could you take a Dremel tool or small file and elongate the holes and shaft slot just a little to get more adjustability? If you have the capability, post a pic for us to look at.
07-19-2008, 04:24 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: hamid_fireage
The problem is the pinion I think. 9T is not big enough to touch the main gear and I dont wanna dremel this poor plastic air frame to let it break more easily in a crash. I post some pictures I think theyre better than my english
ORIGINAL: Bones27
Hamid, I'm not sure I completely understand what you are describing so take this for what it's worth. Could you take a Dremel tool or small file and elongate the holes and shaft slot just a little to get more adjustability? If you have the capability, post a pic for us to look at.
Hamid, I'm not sure I completely understand what you are describing so take this for what it's worth. Could you take a Dremel tool or small file and elongate the holes and shaft slot just a little to get more adjustability? If you have the capability, post a pic for us to look at.
You should probably try and find a pinion that is at least 11T with a grub screw. I tried to use a 9T the other day because I stripped my 11T...Cause I just wanted to fly(9t was all I had in my field box). The 9T was so much harder for me to mesh because of it's little size. I got frustrated and just bailed to the LHS and bought another 11T....No problems!
I also like that idea of elongating the holes in the mount, but I am afraid that the motor might be shoved to close to the frame or to close to the elevators servo horn. I have the TowerPros shoved in my Cyclic and I had to do the z-bend to metal ball mod. If i was any closer with my motor inward, I would have to install smaller servos. If you decide to dremmel the holes inward, do the math before you start. Thats my point, yah!
Good luck,
Z
07-19-2008, 06:52 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
Hamid,
Don't be overly concerned about modifing the frame to make the pinion fit. It may be the slots in the main frame that are preventing you from moving the motor to adjust the gear mesh. If so, either file or dremel as needed. Also, see attached picture, the motor diameter may be the culprit and the main frame may need to be dremeled a tad. Look closely at the motor, where it touches the main frame, you can see I had to remove some of the blocking material of the main frame. Works fine.
Dave / Choppersrule
Don't be overly concerned about modifing the frame to make the pinion fit. It may be the slots in the main frame that are preventing you from moving the motor to adjust the gear mesh. If so, either file or dremel as needed. Also, see attached picture, the motor diameter may be the culprit and the main frame may need to be dremeled a tad. Look closely at the motor, where it touches the main frame, you can see I had to remove some of the blocking material of the main frame. Works fine.
Dave / Choppersrule
ORIGINAL: hamid_fireage
The problem is the pinion I think. 9T is not big enough to touch the main gear and I dont wanna dremel this poor plastic air frame to let it break more easily in a crash. I post some pictures I think theyre better than my english
ORIGINAL: Bones27
Hamid, I'm not sure I completely understand what you are describing so take this for what it's worth. Could you take a Dremel tool or small file and elongate the holes and shaft slot just a little to get more adjustability? If you have the capability, post a pic for us to look at.
Hamid, I'm not sure I completely understand what you are describing so take this for what it's worth. Could you take a Dremel tool or small file and elongate the holes and shaft slot just a little to get more adjustability? If you have the capability, post a pic for us to look at.
07-19-2008, 09:21 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
As Far as motors go, DO NOT buy the Extreme productions 4000kv motor. It is a POS. When I got it out of the package 2 of the wires fell right off, bad solder job. I'm very proficient at soldering so I went ahead and re-soldered all three wires. I've been running it with no problems for about 25 flights and today the pinion came loose. I went to fix it and found that the can could pull through, it was missing a washer and E clip[:@] Of coarse to put salt in the wound I ended up stripping the threads on my align 10t. I flat spotted the shaft and installed the 9t. I also put some JB weld in the 10t pinion to hopefully drill and tap, we'll see how that goes
I would think again about the Extreme Pro 4000kv.
God Bless,
Jay
I would think again about the Extreme Pro 4000kv.
God Bless,
Jay
07-19-2008, 09:30 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
Frick!!!! Charged all of my batteries today to go fly and POOF!! My Dynam 30A finally took a huge poo-pooh! My fingers still smell like burnt plastic and toxic death after 3 hand washes....I kinda like that Align 35 amp ESC with the external heat sink, 6v BEC and governor for 55 bucks...Anyone else have an idea on the next great thing in ESC's to try? maybe the Hobbywing....Can't justify the Castle Creations, but me likes it a lot!
Peace,
Z
Peace,
Z
07-19-2008, 09:34 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
You know, I have been getting more reports of their stuff being worse and worse. Funny thing is, I'm almost positive those motors are made in the same factory as a lot of other motors (HDX being one).
I wonder how much it is to move to china and get this stuff done right the first time ? Of course the wife would kill / miss me, but think of all the great products we could bring to market!
I wonder how much it is to move to china and get this stuff done right the first time ? Of course the wife would kill / miss me, but think of all the great products we could bring to market!
07-19-2008, 09:46 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
Cant move there Mike, your beverages would never be safe. I learned about them Chinese when I was a child....See>They Chinese, they play joke...they go Pee-pee in your Coke!!!
Believe it bro!
[sm=lol.gif]
"They must have let me out of the chains a tad early....Back in the hole for me..
Z
Believe it bro!
[sm=lol.gif]
"They must have let me out of the chains a tad early....Back in the hole for me..
Z
07-19-2008, 10:02 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: Zimatosa
Cant move there Mike, your beverages would never be safe. I learned about them Chinese when I was a child....See>They Chinese, they play joke...they go Pee-pee in your Coke!!!
Believe it bro!
[sm=lol.gif]
"They must have let me out of the chains a tad early....Back in the hole for me..
Z
Cant move there Mike, your beverages would never be safe. I learned about them Chinese when I was a child....See>They Chinese, they play joke...they go Pee-pee in your Coke!!!
Believe it bro!
[sm=lol.gif]
"They must have let me out of the chains a tad early....Back in the hole for me..
Z
Hey Mike, don't go....it won't make anything better, they'd still make crap, ( although very affordable crap
) and we'd miss your customer service. Your better off over hereGod Bless All, rant over[&o]
Jay
07-19-2008, 10:17 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: Zimatosa
Frick!!!! Charged all of my batteries today to go fly and POOF!! My Dynam 30A finally took a huge poo-pooh! My fingers still smell like burnt plastic and toxic death after 3 hand washes....I kinda like that Align 35 amp ESC with the external heat sink, 6v BEC and governor for 55 bucks...Anyone else have an idea on the next great thing in ESC's to try? maybe the Hobbywing....Can't justify the Castle Creations, but me likes it a lot!
Peace,
Z
Frick!!!! Charged all of my batteries today to go fly and POOF!! My Dynam 30A finally took a huge poo-pooh! My fingers still smell like burnt plastic and toxic death after 3 hand washes....I kinda like that Align 35 amp ESC with the external heat sink, 6v BEC and governor for 55 bucks...Anyone else have an idea on the next great thing in ESC's to try? maybe the Hobbywing....Can't justify the Castle Creations, but me likes it a lot!
Peace,
Z
07-19-2008, 11:23 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
The9 tooth does not work well with the 3800. You have to nearly make a hole in the frame to push the motor far enough back. Also you will have to remove the little servo mounts and cut those about 1/8 inch shorter. Sooo dont waste the time, besides the 3800 motor is very strong and works best as far as headspeed (unless your into REAL aerobatics) with a 20 to 22 tooth pinion. The 10 you will need to nick the frame a little the 11 tooth usually it drops right in. You probably dont want to install the 12 tooth only because it will run a insane headspeed.
If your servo horn is touching the motor or the linkage is remove the servo and trim back those two little mounts OR if you are in the LHS there is a package "EK1-0293 servo controler"which includes new servo mounts and what you want is the short ones out of the package to mount your front servo, (now you have to look that your front servo does not hit the Pitch servo linkage... but those new servo mounts usually work.
Just a suggestion but you might want to look into a frame stiffener from Xtream products to prevent breaking the frame on a hard "landing" with that heavier 3800 motor and already weak frame, cost is only about 10$ for it.
Hope that helps a little
If your servo horn is touching the motor or the linkage is remove the servo and trim back those two little mounts OR if you are in the LHS there is a package "EK1-0293 servo controler"which includes new servo mounts and what you want is the short ones out of the package to mount your front servo, (now you have to look that your front servo does not hit the Pitch servo linkage... but those new servo mounts usually work.
Just a suggestion but you might want to look into a frame stiffener from Xtream products to prevent breaking the frame on a hard "landing" with that heavier 3800 motor and already weak frame, cost is only about 10$ for it.
Hope that helps a little
07-19-2008, 11:28 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: funflier
the time, besides the 3800 motor is very strong and works best as far as headspeed (unless your into REAL aerobatics) with a 20 to 22 tooth pinion. The 10 you will need to nick the frame a little the 11 tooth usually it drops right in. You probably dont want to install the 12 tooth only because it will run a insane headspeed.
the time, besides the 3800 motor is very strong and works best as far as headspeed (unless your into REAL aerobatics) with a 20 to 22 tooth pinion. The 10 you will need to nick the frame a little the 11 tooth usually it drops right in. You probably dont want to install the 12 tooth only because it will run a insane headspeed.
The xtreme frame stiffner is nice, I have not had a chance to install one yet (still using the XTREME cf frame) but I did look closely at the milling and design!
Michael
07-19-2008, 11:52 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
Right you are, after a while it gets so fustrating your just going in circles (bad pun)[>:]
Take a break sit back and throw rocks at it, ah ur I mean just think about it or like I do............go do something else for a while
Take a break sit back and throw rocks at it,
ah ur I mean just think about it or like I do............go do something else for a while
07-20-2008, 08:39 AM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
What do you guys do about the COG? I have the ESC mounted above the battery, some velcro on the battery to get it as far forward as I can, and it's still tail heavy. I traded mine used for a nitro truck, spent the last week leveling, adjusting, and tweaking to get it set up right, but can't figure out the COG.
07-20-2008, 10:42 AM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: funflier
The9 tooth does not work well with the 3800. You have to nearly make a hole in the frame to push the motor far enough back. Also you will have to remove the little servo mounts and cut those about 1/8 inch shorter. Sooo dont waste the time, besides the 3800 motor is very strong and works best as far as headspeed (unless your into REAL aerobatics) with a 20 to 22 tooth pinion. The 10 you will need to nick the frame a little the 11 tooth usually it drops right in. You probably dont want to install the 12 tooth only because it will run a insane headspeed.
If your servo horn is touching the motor or the linkage is remove the servo and trim back those two little mounts OR if you are in the LHS there is a package "EK1-0293 servo controler"which includes new servo mounts and what you want is the short ones out of the package to mount your front servo, (now you have to look that your front servo does not hit the Pitch servo linkage... but those new servo mounts usually work.
Just a suggestion but you might want to look into a frame stiffener from Xtream products to prevent breaking the frame on a hard "landing" with that heavier 3800 motor and already weak frame, cost is only about 10$ for it.
Hope that helps a little
The9 tooth does not work well with the 3800. You have to nearly make a hole in the frame to push the motor far enough back. Also you will have to remove the little servo mounts and cut those about 1/8 inch shorter. Sooo dont waste the time, besides the 3800 motor is very strong and works best as far as headspeed (unless your into REAL aerobatics) with a 20 to 22 tooth pinion. The 10 you will need to nick the frame a little the 11 tooth usually it drops right in. You probably dont want to install the 12 tooth only because it will run a insane headspeed.
If your servo horn is touching the motor or the linkage is remove the servo and trim back those two little mounts OR if you are in the LHS there is a package "EK1-0293 servo controler"which includes new servo mounts and what you want is the short ones out of the package to mount your front servo, (now you have to look that your front servo does not hit the Pitch servo linkage... but those new servo mounts usually work.
Just a suggestion but you might want to look into a frame stiffener from Xtream products to prevent breaking the frame on a hard "landing" with that heavier 3800 motor and already weak frame, cost is only about 10$ for it.
Hope that helps a little
And if Im not mistaken the modification you mentioned for servo mounts are just for 9T? Or should be done for 10T too? As you said The 11T would sit onto the mount without any mod.
Dont you think 11T would make crazy head speed sine im a beginner?
Thanks again
07-20-2008, 11:19 AM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
Hamid,
Concerning the 11T pinion. If you are using the stock Transmitter, all you would have to do is set the trim knob, top left on tx, to about the 2 o'clock position. That would increase your blade pitch and reduce required head speed to lift/fly the helicopter.
Dave / Choppersrule
================================================== ================================
Concerning the 11T pinion. If you are using the stock Transmitter, all you would have to do is set the trim knob, top left on tx, to about the 2 o'clock position. That would increase your blade pitch and reduce required head speed to lift/fly the helicopter.
Dave / Choppersrule
================================================== ================================
ORIGINAL: hamid_fireage
Thanks dude - I read your post and other guys carefully. Referring to whole ideas it seems the frame should be dremel a bit even with 10T.
And if Im not mistaken the modification you mentioned for servo mounts are just for 9T? Or should be done for 10T too? As you said The 11T would sit onto the mount without any mod.
Dont you think 11T would make crazy head speed sine im a beginner?
Thanks again
Thanks dude - I read your post and other guys carefully. Referring to whole ideas it seems the frame should be dremel a bit even with 10T.
And if Im not mistaken the modification you mentioned for servo mounts are just for 9T? Or should be done for 10T too? As you said The 11T would sit onto the mount without any mod.
Dont you think 11T would make crazy head speed sine im a beginner?
Thanks again
07-20-2008, 12:39 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
The JB Weld trick worked. I drilled the pinion back out this morning and carefully installed the set-screw. I love the stuff. My wife ripped the mirror clean off of our Honda with the garage and I put it all back together with JB Weld and it's held up for 3 yrs now.
5 minute flight this morning showed all fixes worked.
God Bless All!
Jay
5 minute flight this morning showed all fixes worked.
God Bless All!
Jay
07-20-2008, 02:48 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: kenhiraihnl
hey z...i use the cc phoenix 25...you can get it for less than $50, and the built-in bec seems to do the job...ken
I am worried that a 25A will not be enough and something or other will run hot. My Dynam actually worked real well for many months but seemed to have kind of a hard start. I forgot the formula for which ESC is best but I run a Hyperion 3700(10-14V) and mostly 1350 15C batteries. I do have one of the 2200 18/25C batteries too that i use for hover and messing around. I was thinking of maybe going 35-40A...Is that overkill?
Thanks,
Z
hey z...i use the cc phoenix 25...you can get it for less than $50, and the built-in bec seems to do the job...ken
Thanks,
Z
07-20-2008, 02:59 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
A Phoenix 25 will handle anything you want to do with the King. As long as your head speed is reasonable for what you're doing (higher for aero, lower if you like for hovering and FF), then you won't go over 25-28A, and only near there in hard aerobatics. Your normal power draw will be between 10 and 14A depending on flying weight and head speed.
A 35A is definitely overkill- just more weight to drag around.
[edit] FYI, here's a flight log with the woodies and a JGF 400DH at low and high head speeds. Hovering with a little bit of flopping around/high collective. You can get the power requirements pretty low with lower head speeds, as you can see, but you don't want to try aggressive flying that way. [/edit]
A 35A is definitely overkill- just more weight to drag around.
[edit] FYI, here's a flight log with the woodies and a JGF 400DH at low and high head speeds. Hovering with a little bit of flopping around/high collective. You can get the power requirements pretty low with lower head speeds, as you can see, but you don't want to try aggressive flying that way. [/edit]
07-20-2008, 03:02 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
Hey Dave - Yes my Tx is stock and I should mess around with the pitch knob and readjustment of the tail servo. So Im going to find a good 11T pinion by tomorrow.
My next step is buying a good Tx. I seeing on many threads lots of people buy Spektrum or Futaba. Last week I had a chance to try a Hitec 6ch Tx and quite intresting in buying one. The guy said the pack is coming with 4 Hitec servos and the Rx (of course) costs about $250. Do you think its any good?
My next step is buying a good Tx. I seeing on many threads lots of people buy Spektrum or Futaba. Last week I had a chance to try a Hitec 6ch Tx and quite intresting in buying one. The guy said the pack is coming with 4 Hitec servos and the Rx (of course) costs about $250. Do you think its any good?
07-20-2008, 03:09 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: osterizer
A Phoenix 25 will handle anything you want to do with the King. As long as your head speed is reasonable for what you're doing (higher for aero, lower if you like for hovering and FF), then you won't go over 25-28A, and only near there in hard aerobatics. Your normal power draw will be between 10 and 14A depending on flying weight and head speed.
A 35A is definitely overkill- just more weight to drag around.
[edit] FYI, here's a flight log with the woodies and a JGF 400DH at low and high head speeds. Hovering with a little bit of flopping around/high collective. You can get the power requirements pretty low with lower head speeds, as you can see, but you don't want to try aggressive flying that way. [/edit]
A Phoenix 25 will handle anything you want to do with the King. As long as your head speed is reasonable for what you're doing (higher for aero, lower if you like for hovering and FF), then you won't go over 25-28A, and only near there in hard aerobatics. Your normal power draw will be between 10 and 14A depending on flying weight and head speed.
A 35A is definitely overkill- just more weight to drag around.
[edit] FYI, here's a flight log with the woodies and a JGF 400DH at low and high head speeds. Hovering with a little bit of flopping around/high collective. You can get the power requirements pretty low with lower head speeds, as you can see, but you don't want to try aggressive flying that way. [/edit]
Pic of my configuration at the present moment....
Peace,
Z
07-20-2008, 03:30 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
ORIGINAL: Zimatosa
Thanks for the fast response. I forgot to mention that I run the extended boom and 315mm-325mm blades. Just making sure that it will still handle the load. I am not much of an electronics guy...I need to work on that!
Pic of my configuration at the present moment....
Peace,
Z
ORIGINAL: osterizer
A Phoenix 25 will handle anything you want to do with the King. As long as your head speed is reasonable for what you're doing (higher for aero, lower if you like for hovering and FF), then you won't go over 25-28A, and only near there in hard aerobatics. Your normal power draw will be between 10 and 14A depending on flying weight and head speed.
A 35A is definitely overkill- just more weight to drag around.
[edit] FYI, here's a flight log with the woodies and a JGF 400DH at low and high head speeds. Hovering with a little bit of flopping around/high collective. You can get the power requirements pretty low with lower head speeds, as you can see, but you don't want to try aggressive flying that way. [/edit]
A Phoenix 25 will handle anything you want to do with the King. As long as your head speed is reasonable for what you're doing (higher for aero, lower if you like for hovering and FF), then you won't go over 25-28A, and only near there in hard aerobatics. Your normal power draw will be between 10 and 14A depending on flying weight and head speed.
A 35A is definitely overkill- just more weight to drag around.
[edit] FYI, here's a flight log with the woodies and a JGF 400DH at low and high head speeds. Hovering with a little bit of flopping around/high collective. You can get the power requirements pretty low with lower head speeds, as you can see, but you don't want to try aggressive flying that way. [/edit]
Pic of my configuration at the present moment....
Peace,
Z
. Are you running Align 8g flybar paddles? I love them on my 400.
07-20-2008, 03:43 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
It won't make a huge difference as long as your AUW hasn't grown too much. On 3S, my Mini Titan and Poseidon both are still hovering around 12A but maneuvering up to 30A (both are 850g+). If your AUW is over 750g I'd think about a 35A.
ORIGINAL: Zimatosa
Thanks for the fast response. I forgot to mention that I run the extended boom and 315mm-325mm blades. Just making sure that it will still handle the load. I am not much of an electronics guy...I need to work on that!
Pic of my configuration at the present moment....
Peace,
Z
ORIGINAL: osterizer
A Phoenix 25 will handle anything you want to do with the King. As long as your head speed is reasonable for what you're doing (higher for aero, lower if you like for hovering and FF), then you won't go over 25-28A, and only near there in hard aerobatics. Your normal power draw will be between 10 and 14A depending on flying weight and head speed.
A 35A is definitely overkill- just more weight to drag around.
[edit] FYI, here's a flight log with the woodies and a JGF 400DH at low and high head speeds. Hovering with a little bit of flopping around/high collective. You can get the power requirements pretty low with lower head speeds, as you can see, but you don't want to try aggressive flying that way. [/edit]
A Phoenix 25 will handle anything you want to do with the King. As long as your head speed is reasonable for what you're doing (higher for aero, lower if you like for hovering and FF), then you won't go over 25-28A, and only near there in hard aerobatics. Your normal power draw will be between 10 and 14A depending on flying weight and head speed.
A 35A is definitely overkill- just more weight to drag around.
[edit] FYI, here's a flight log with the woodies and a JGF 400DH at low and high head speeds. Hovering with a little bit of flopping around/high collective. You can get the power requirements pretty low with lower head speeds, as you can see, but you don't want to try aggressive flying that way. [/edit]
Pic of my configuration at the present moment....
Peace,
Z
07-20-2008, 03:56 PM
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RE: Honeybee King v2 tuner shop
While we're talking electronics put almost 2 batteries through my King 2 today, seems to be easier to hover than my Falcon 40! but alas, near the end of the second battery it found the ground at a less than optimal angle, shredded the stock blades. Upon doing damage assesment at the bench I noticed a very slight wobble at low RPM, seems to go away the higher the RPM, bent main shaft I'm assuming? Also, if I slowly increase throttle after 3 clicks or so RPM will not increase until I get over half throttle, then it jumps up to where it should be and works correctly to full throttle, if I reduce power to almost off and increase again it increases RPM as it should in relation to stick position, but if I shut throttle down, and start it again I get the "dead" area again, seems to be betwen 1/4 and 1/2 throttle (Esky brushless motor and ESC), did I kill the ESC?
put almost 2 batteries through my King 2 today, seems to be easier to hover than my Falcon 40! but alas, near the end of the second battery it found the ground at a less than optimal angle, shredded the stock blades. Upon doing damage assesment at the bench I noticed a very slight wobble at low RPM, seems to go away the higher the RPM, bent main shaft I'm assuming? Also, if I slowly increase throttle after 3 clicks or so RPM will not increase until I get over half throttle, then it jumps up to where it should be and works correctly to full throttle, if I reduce power to almost off and increase again it increases RPM as it should in relation to stick position, but if I shut throttle down, and start it again I get the "dead" area again, seems to be betwen 1/4 and 1/2 throttle (Esky brushless motor and ESC), did I kill the ESC?