I just ordered two 5mm nut drivers to remove the locknuts that hold the blade grips and feathering shaft. I hope these
drivers will fit between the arms of the blade grips. I'm sure anyone who has removed these locknuts knows how tight the space is to work in. None of my very small sockets will fit in the space. Any suggestions on removing the nuts would be appreciated . Do extra long needle nose pliers work? I was thinking about custom grinding down a pair while waiting on the nut drivers---- those are 5mm nuts, right?
Thanks,
Don

I used needle nose pliers.

If your flying a king2 they are 5.5mm

5.5mm is the nut size (i hope you didn't order 5mm drivers)...if you convert to trex spindles, you won't need the nut drivers (use standard 1.5mm hex drivers)...either way is ok...trex spindles bend in a crash, about as easily as esky spindles...ken

i couldnt get even a small pair of needle nose plyers to work.. crimson is right.. if it is the hbk2 or the belt cp they are 5.5 m. you can get them here pretty cheap.. you will need 2.. 1 to losen and the other to keep the second nut from spinning.. this is the best price you will find with a good price for shipping too..jake

[link=http://www.ushobbysupply.com/product_info.php?cPath=52&products_id=504]http://www.ushobbysupply.com/product_info.php?cPath=52&products_id=504[/link]

i've posted this before, but for the benefit of those who are just joining, and might not have come across the posting, here are the parts needed to convert form esky to trex spindles (hs1195, hs1186, hs1003)...use two o-ring dampers on each side...if you're not satisfied with end-play on the grips, you could add a spacer...ken

@#%^&*! I ordered 2 5mm nut drivers , so I'll be returning them when they come in. Thanks guys for all the good information - you just saved me the frustration of opening the package and finding out the nut drivers don't fit the locknut.
In the meantime I've put in alot of time on the Black Hawk 450 indoors. The size of it intimidated me at first, but I'm getting pretty comfortable with it now- even holding a reasonably steady nose in hover. Of course this is a very stable heli to begin with. Can't wait to get the HBK2 back in the air- it was locked in to an almost hands off hover before I got cocky and tried some piroettes and the blades hit a sofa cushion. False confidence can lead to........... well you know.

Ken, it looks like the spindle shaft and blade grips are held with screws instead of nuts on the Trex - right? Makes alot more sense, and replacement alot easier.
Jake, thanks for the URL - it's so easy when you don't have to look all over creation for a part or tool.
I should have posed the question about the nut size before ordering the nut drivers, but I read a post saying that the member "thought" they were 5mm nuts. The parts list calls them M3 locknuts, and I recall a big blowup regarding something like that between two forum members. Don't know why the manual can't just call them 5.5mm locknuts.

Thanks for all the help guys,
Don

hi don...

Quote: Ken, it looks like the spindle shaft and blade grips are held with screws instead of nuts on the Trex - right? Makes alot more sense, and replacement alot easier.

Yes, trex spindles use socket-head bolts (like 99% of all helis) that you fully loctite in place -- or if you fly like me, and crash frequently enough, you can omit the loctite, to make spindle-changing easier - lol...With the stock 5.5mm self-locking nut setup, there's the problem of having an even amount of threads showing between the nut and the root of the blade...I used a needle-nose plier and a 5.5mm socket to get that right...btw, I found that the hardened esky spindle was just a tad longer, causing interference with the root of my cf blades...dremel took care of that...ken

I have ask the same question in belt cp tread, I change my feathering with the trex (hollow one) and it's really to long so I add two unused bearing, one in each side before the hex screw, is this OK? I didn't add o-ring like you sugested..

since the belt cp uses the same feathering shaft as the hbk2...
http://www.rchelicoptershop.com/cata...tcp-p-258.html
i would use the trex parts that i listed in my previous post...if your hollow trex feathering shaft is too long, it must be for a newer model...the shafts that work with the hbk2 were made for the trex450xl...ken

Hi
new at this but on the King ll feathering shaft I blue loctite one nut on the end and let it dry throughly then insert the shaft and finish assy it and blue loctite the other end. no problem getting it centered then. I leave about 1 mm of threads showing at the first end then when I tighten the other end I make it about the same. btw that selflocking nut is not a tight 5 mm. As its a self locking nut and is really a 5.5 mm. I have a "special" nut driver for sale cheap that fits the nut perfect but the walls are too thick to use on the heli. I notice my "new" nut drivers are marked 3mm (shaft size?) and fit perfect.

Here's what I did and it makes removing or adjusting the feathering shaft a brease. I removed the small aluminum thing that the shaft goes through and drilled and tapped it. When you install a new feathering shaft all you have to do it center it and lock it down from bothe sides with a set screw and to adjust you only need one nut driver. It works great and takes the hassel out of it. Jeff

Now that IS a very innovative mod! I assume you tapped for 3mm grub screws? ken

thats a slick idea.

All I had at the time was some 4-40 set screws so I used that, but it worked! Jeff

I don't know if those american threads will work on that chinese helicopter or not. LOL

i put the t rex shaft in with the rubber spacers and 2 small washers on each side the head is stiff and tight

I am assuming the shaft that holds the blade holders is the feathering shaft from what everyone is saying. How do you know if it is bent. Would it be pretty obvious? I had a blade strike the tail on a hard landing recently. I replaced a few pieces and found another broken piece when I was putting those on. I need to remove the blade holder on one side to replace a piece. What should I look at to see if it is bent or do I need to remove it to see?

if your blades are out of track (1/8" - 1/4" or more), and the normal procedure of shortening or lengthening links doesn't correct the tracking error, you probably have a bent feathering shaft (spindle)...you can take off one blade, put your 5.5mm nut-driver on the blade grip retention nut, and rotate the spindle...if the opposite blade moves in a circular motion (even very slightly), the spindle is bent, and needs to be replaced or straightened...you can also remove the spindle and roll it on flat glass, and see space under the spindle where it is bent...most of the time, you can easily see the bend...a bent spindle causes vibration, loss of lift, tail instability, etc., so it must be perfectly straight before any other fine-tuning or mods will work...hope that helps...btw, main shafts are tougher, but they bend too...ken

Hs1186 is the feathering shaft , Hs 1003 is the o rings. what is hs1195? I cannot find that #


thanks ----jim