I got a Arne Hende .6cc Mini Dyno in the mail from "down under" today. (.036 cubic inch.) Here it is next to my A.H 2cc Dyno (full size). The .6cc starts so easily that I hold the prop close to the spinner with my thumb and index finger and make like I'm snapping my fingers! It swings a 7" prop quite well. According to a magazine article from 1986, it will turn 7x4 at up to 7500 RPM. (Model Building, June 1986; Stu Richmond) <Arne Hende made yet another Dyno at only .25cc, the Baby Dyno.>

It's a beauty!
See the small obit at [link=http://www.modelenginenews.org/ed.2007.03.html#0]Model Engine News 03/07[/link]
Follow the link to the gallery of AH engines - some nice pictures there. He even made a .1cc.
-LeeH

Thanks! Here is a link to a shot of three sizes of AH Dynos. http://www.modelenginenews.org/prod/...tiny_dyno3.jpg

The AH 0.25 Dynos were not quite as successful as they should have been-I believe the first ones were ABC and suffered from the usual Russian ABC diesel problem of too much taper. A second tranche was produced in steel which were better.

'ffkiwi'

FFKiwi,

Arne and I discussed the Baby-Dyno last time he was at my house. I thought he made a production run but he said he never did. I even marked one of my boxes as a third production run but I'll have to make a new box liner to correct it.

Evidently guys were having some difficulty starting the ABC versions so he made a run of steel cylinders that could be retro-fitted for better performance.

He brought me one and I have a picture of it. Arne also told me that if you block off one exhaust port with your finger it will pick up about 500 RPM.

We lost Arne so the last engine he made was an Elf Corncob.

I stand corrected Dan-however I was partly right regarding the ABC aspect. My information came from UK sources-John Goodall in particular. Not unknown when Russian manufacturers with little or no experience of diesel fits and tolerances get into the manufacturing game-and exacerbated in the small sizes. The Russian ABC Elfin replicas suffered from the same problem-and have been produced in quantity. The Russian Doonside Mills 75 replica being another.That being said-you can get the same problem occurring in steel metallurgy setups as well-too little or too much taper. But ABC setups tend to have a lot of taper-and if the manufacturer has been producing glow ABC motors previously it is an easy trap to fall into.
I have a number of AH engines-the Mini Oliver, Kalper .32 (interestingly the VA Kalper is a better motor than the AH one, performance wise), AH Elfin 50, and the Amco 3.5 BB. All very well made. It would seem the only person left doing 'interesting' replicas these days is Ian Russell of Rustler U/C

'ffkiwi'

I adore my "Millsky" 75. But I have heard it said that I got lucky, and that quality varied.

I ran in a couple of Millsky 75 diesels for a friend the Summer of 2006. Engines obtained from Carlson. One in great shape, the second had a stuck contra piston. A few years earlier I got a Russian Elfin iron and steel from Aerodyne. A good runner with no problems. I have a couple of Ian Russel Oliver Jaguar reproduction diesels. This .15 cu. in. or so diesel flys an 80 inch span Playboy Cabin. I tried to include a picture of the Jaguar mounted on the Playboy. Jack Hiner

Kiwi,

John Goodall was Arne's biggest customer in the UK. He made a lot of engines for John so it is possible he made a short run of the steel cylinder Baby-Dynos for the UK and never told me about it. Arne told me it was strictly a run of steel cylinders and matching pistons that could be retro-fitted to former ABC engines but the fact that he showed up at my doorstep with one in hand proves he assembled at least one. If you have John Goodall's email you might ask him.

Arne made a special run of EP Moth .85cc engines for John, strictly for the UK market. Arne gave me one because he wanted me to make my plastic boxes for them.

Arne's Kalper was a different MK model from the VA Kalper. I have a picture somewhere of both engines as I also made some boxes for them. I'll post it when I find it.

I love these little engines.

Have you tested that yet? And do you have a print left on that finger?

Is there daylight through the exhaust ports when the piston is at TDC? I'm just trying to dope out where the extra 500 RPM might come from with more exhaust restriction.

No, I haven't tried it. I'm assuming the exhaust ports were more than needed. If Arne said it would pick up RPM, I'd believe him.

I recently sold my AH 2.0cc Dyno on Ebay and never ran it. Now I'm wondering if the "Finger-Block" technique also applies to the .6cc and 2.0cc engines. Arne only mentioned it would work on the little .25cc version.

Dan, your 2cc Dyno is the one above in my photos!

When I ran the .6cc Dyno, blocking either port did not increase or decrease the RPM, but it did reduce noise by about 2/3rds!

A friend told me that he shot compressed air at the exhaust port of his Burford Deezil one day and increased the RPM by about a grand...[X(]

True Dan-John Goodall was the major agent (possibly the only agent for AH in the UK). I know John quite well, and have visited him on several occasions during my infrequent trips to the UK. I also wrote quite extensively for MEW when he published it.The AH Kalper replica was of the original Kalper prototype, with a straight in venturi, the VA one a replica of the production model-with the characteristic stepped intake tract. In my hands the VA is 1000rpm faster on a Cox black 6x3-(8,000rpm vs 7,000 for the VA)-quite a major difference.
......to misfit sailor-the STEEL Russki's are generally OK-it is the ABC ones that gave problems-and these cropped up most notably with the Mills 75 and Elfin 1.49 replicas when they first appeared on the market.
...to jack hiner-there was quite a bit of feedback given to the Russians, and no doubt they took some of it on board. The Russian Elfins are still available today-in both steel and ABC formats from time to time. Whether they are in current PRODUCTION is another matter, as there could have been a large batch made some time ago and drip fed on to the market. I have 3 of the ABC ones, plus a genuine Ivor F made Australian one, plus an original. The Australians only allow the use of the steel version in their vintage events, whereas in New Zealand we don't make the distinction. My ABC Millski, however does not handle and start anything like as well as an original, or an Irvine, or an original Australian made Doonside Mills-and several other NZ modellers of my acquaintance confirm the findings. Mind you NZ is awash in Mills 75's so we have a lot of corporate knowledge, experience and standards to compare them against.

Ian Russell's stuff is very nice-and he's now doing the Amco 87 in several versions. I've looked long and hard over the Jaguar (and its derivative the Cheetah) but haven't yet succumbed to the temptation.

'ffkiwi'

Tim,

It never occured to me that Dyno 2.0cc was the one I sold on Ebay.

With all the handles and different names used I never made the connection.

Arne hand-delivered that little beauty and it had the feel of a good Mills. I never ran it but Arne may have tested it.

Dan

The 2cc Dyno sits waiting for me to machine a new contra piston for it. The original contra was, let's say, not as pretty as most of the other parts. When attempting to run the engine, it leaked so bad that any fuel present was pushed up past the contra and out via the adjusting screw threads (actually blown out!). Needless to say, It has not run yet. A simple fix, however, and I still have hopes of success with this rare and special piece.

To the best of my knowledge the 0.6cc Dyno was the first of the long line of engines that Arne commissioned and distributed.
When I first met Arne at the local MECA chapter over here, sometime in the early 80´s, he had established a contact with Josef Pfeffer in Czechoslovakia (now the Czech republic), and he had brought back with him several of the Pfeffer 0.6cc square-head diesels in various configurations; BB, PB, R/C & plain venturi, and he sold these at the MECA meeting.

Shortly after this he came up with the idea to make a mini-replica of the Dyno, and as I understand the mini-Dyno uses the same cylinder/piston unit as the Pfeffer square-head. I haven´t checked this, but it seems probable.
At any rate Pfeffer made the cylinder/piston units for the entire line of 0.6cc mini-Dynos, so they are all of very high quality.
I haven´t heard of one of these engines that didn´t run well, and there were many hundred made.
The first engines had plain alu heads, and there were eventually many small variations to the c/cases, as well as the heads, and spinners, some had tanks and some had not. There are some with cast letters in front of the c/case, others had the letters stamped.
After the plain alu heads, there were batches with the heads anodized black, blue, and a very beautiful deep shade of green. The last versions had red or gold heads.
Arne divided them up in several different numbered batches.

The 0.25cc and 2cc versions were not made by Pfeffer, and don´t seem to be quite as uniform in quality as the 0.6cc. Don´t know for sure where these were made; could have been Russia or Ukraine, Arne had so many contacts everywhere.

That is a really nice engine mount. Locating the engine at a third point just behind the prop driver strikes me as a very good thing for an engine with a long nosed crank in a plain bushed bearing. Is that your idea and work?

I had a vibration problem with the Jaguar on the Playboy. So I made up a mock up and had a machinest make one out of aluminium. Solved my vibration problem and picked up a few more RPM. Should have tried the unballanced prop trick first as I did with my Drone diesels. See photo. Painted a prop blade with epoxy paint to aid the counter ballance of the crank. Workes great. Jack

Uploaded wrong document. Here is the Drone with prop unbalanced with epoxy paint. Jack

Tim,

I was trying to resist running that Dyno because I wanted to keep it in new condition.

Had no idea the contra-piston was leaking as it seemed to have great compression.

Hope you can fix it because I've heard they are excellent engines. Sure had a nice feel.

Dan, since then I got around to working on the big Dyno. I was starting to turn a new contra when I realized that I had not tried to grow the contra piston. In short, I heated it up to a nice glow, let it cool, cleaned it and presto; it fits tighter. I had it mounted on a stand and running in no time. (short runs, cooling in between) It runs well, my tach said 10,400 on a 11x6 wood, (but I think the tach lied.)

So, all's well that ends well! I am happy to have both my AH Dynos running!

Tim,

Well, I certainly am relieved that it was not a bust. That was a very smooth feeling engine and I'm glad to hear it's running properly.

Didja have a chance to try blocking one exhaust port to see if the engine picks up RPM?

Arne said it works on the little .25cc one but I was wondering if it also applied to the .6 and 2.0cc versions as well.

No, I have not tried that yet, but I have found that most of my side port diesels will experience a 2/3rds reduction of their racket by covering either one of their exhaust ports. Some do speed up a little, others maintain the same RPM.

A friend of mine told me that one day when running his Burford Deezil, he blew air from a nozzle toward an exhaust port. He said the engine revved up about another thousand RPM!