My attempts...
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RE: My attempts...
Giovanni Pavan Model design Bureau: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gCkbSjtELjU
e mal che vaga... te chin costruisi n'altro.
e mal che vaga... te chin costruisi n'altro.
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RE: My attempts...
Poi pensando a 'panssari' (perchè 'panssari' è 'panssari')....me vien in mente un film con Bud Spencer & Terence Hill. Quello delle due fochette, una se ciama Galina. (Dev'essere il film dove Bud Spencer sconsolato ammira un fiume dal un ponte all'inizio)..
Praticamente, no , ad un certo punto Bud Spencer ghe fa un gesto a sta Galina del tipo simile a quello che faceva mia zia Anna mentre mangiava il radicchio..
Praticamente, no , ad un certo punto Bud Spencer ghe fa un gesto a sta Galina del tipo simile a quello che faceva mia zia Anna mentre mangiava il radicchio..
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RE: My attempts...
Modello altamente consigliato per iniziare, anche se è ad ala bassa: http://www.outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=3037
Eventualmente, se per caso vi spaventano i terminali alari tondeggianti, nulla vieta di farli rettangolari.. basta aggiungere una centina per parte assieme ad un bloccheto da sagomare per formare il terminale.
Il disegno mi pare chiaro e completo. Le centine col profilo piano convesso si ricavano facilmente col metodo del pacchetto.
Eventualmente, se per caso vi spaventano i terminali alari tondeggianti, nulla vieta di farli rettangolari.. basta aggiungere una centina per parte assieme ad un bloccheto da sagomare per formare il terminale.
Il disegno mi pare chiaro e completo. Le centine col profilo piano convesso si ricavano facilmente col metodo del pacchetto.
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RE: My attempts...
Questo mi interessa... con delle modifiche (ai bracci di leva ed ai profili usati, sostanzialmente) è pylonizzabile: http://www.outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=1221
lo spettro di 'panssari' che mi insegue: http://www.outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=1154 (difficilmente pylonizzabile... quello sopra, è piu' facile..... tra l'altro mi piace il sistema adottato per la carenatura motore).
La mia nuova proposta arriva stasera..
questo è un classico: personalizzabile, semplificabile, pylonizzabile: http://www.outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=838
se non avete tempo, l'ala fatela in polistirolo espanso da 10Kg/m^3 rivestita in balsa da 1,5mm
lo spettro di 'panssari' che mi insegue: http://www.outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=1154 (difficilmente pylonizzabile... quello sopra, è piu' facile..... tra l'altro mi piace il sistema adottato per la carenatura motore).
La mia nuova proposta arriva stasera..
questo è un classico: personalizzabile, semplificabile, pylonizzabile: http://www.outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=838
se non avete tempo, l'ala fatela in polistirolo espanso da 10Kg/m^3 rivestita in balsa da 1,5mm
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RE: My attempts...
Questo, addiritura.. è volo vincolatizzabile: http://www.outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=2339
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RE: My attempts...
Modello che fa venir voglia di comprare un piccolo motore (usato) a 4 tempi. le ordinate e le centine sono disegnate in maniera molto chiara, direi: http://www.outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=1812
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RE: My attempts...
Questo è un modello osceno. Non volerebbe bene. Ma forse lo faro', per via della linea che presumo dovrebbe risultare abbastanza gradevole. Del Pc7 è rimasto ben poco... all'inizio avevo previsto l'ala posizionata piu' in alto, e forse lo faro' in quella maniera la'. (stabilita', facilita'di smontaggio ed accesso ai comandi, ecc)..
Il sistema è sempre quello delle ordinate a forma trapezoidale con listelli 4*4 ai margini, facili da ricavare e che permettono una costruzione solida e leggera allo stesso tempo.
- Si.. meglio con l'ala in alto... si vede la scolorina? Bon, quella è la posizione giusta.
- Il carrello in tondino di acciaio armonico, va fissato alla seconda ordinata. Le ruote sono le solite da 57mm lenticolari. Dietro, dato che lo spazio c'è , si potrebbe prevedere un piccolo ruotino parzialmente carenato nella parte in fondo.
- profilo alare Hepperle M.H. 53 .
- scusate: c'è un' Errata corrige. L'ala va posizionata nasciantinela piu' in basso della parte scolorinata. Altrimenti, dovrei chiamare il modello 'Pendulum' (a saria belo, no a te vedi un toco de fusoliera con taca' l'ala che se la scavesa durante 'na virata..).
- Bene, rimosso il delirio..
Il sistema è sempre quello delle ordinate a forma trapezoidale con listelli 4*4 ai margini, facili da ricavare e che permettono una costruzione solida e leggera allo stesso tempo.
- Si.. meglio con l'ala in alto... si vede la scolorina? Bon, quella è la posizione giusta.
- Il carrello in tondino di acciaio armonico, va fissato alla seconda ordinata. Le ruote sono le solite da 57mm lenticolari. Dietro, dato che lo spazio c'è , si potrebbe prevedere un piccolo ruotino parzialmente carenato nella parte in fondo.
- profilo alare Hepperle M.H. 53 .
- scusate: c'è un' Errata corrige. L'ala va posizionata nasciantinela piu' in basso della parte scolorinata. Altrimenti, dovrei chiamare il modello 'Pendulum' (a saria belo, no a te vedi un toco de fusoliera con taca' l'ala che se la scavesa durante 'na virata..).
- Bene, rimosso il delirio..
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RE: My attempts...
Gee, I thought the internationally accepted form of communication is ENGLISH? Seems like a lot of wasted Forum space for the vast majority of RCU readers.
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RE: My attempts...
O.K.... Roger, Yankee.
But.. I am sure a big portion of the RCU's readers got lots of ideas from my auto - discussions.
I am talking about an home made plane.. but many of them literally waste time on discuss about how to choose the proper engine for a ready to fly airplane bought at the local Hobby Shop.
But.. I am sure a big portion of the RCU's readers got lots of ideas from my auto - discussions.
I am talking about an home made plane.. but many of them literally waste time on discuss about how to choose the proper engine for a ready to fly airplane bought at the local Hobby Shop.
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RE: My attempts...
I have some doubts regarding the fuselage's frames.. if you want, you can take a pencil and a piece of paper and draw them. Please remember that the maximum cross section area size has not to exceed 100cm^2 and that area has to be located at the same height and width point.
I am working at the corrected version, a sorta of ' Tsunami/Pegna' mix.
Pegna's look/like (it should be) arrives this evening. I will post the drawings of frames tomorrow.
All my 'drawings' are very simple because they are intended to be fun to construct and operate.
- Please do not buy this engine: http://cgi.ebay.fr/MOTEUR-ROSSI-3-5-...92790912499303
- the tune pipe is located at the fuselage's inside and the exhaust is pointed on the left side. the pipe is enclosed inside a tube you have to make by rolling a sheet of thin plywood wich it passes through the frames. You can use a Scottex carton tube to do the job.
I remain of the idea that for the first flights it is better to leave the top of engine open, without cowl, so you have the glow plug, the carburetor and the header at your fingertips.
- So in the drawing ignore the pencil lines at the bottom of nose.. it is a mistake... better: the engine cowl is right.. but it should be less deep so you can leave 10mm of the engine's head on the air. Also, It has to point straight close to the bottom of the nose.
- Dopo un rapido studio di fattibilita', ho pronto lo schizzo riveduto e corretto del 'Ne - Piaggio nè Pegna'. Che in effetti adesso sembra uno 'Tsunami' ad ala media. A tempo debito vedro' di metter on-line il disegno delle ordinate.
Fino al bordo d'uscita dell'ala, le ordinate presentano la parte superiore a forma di trapezio isoscele, (in modo da poter riprodurre il disegno della capottina nelle dimensioni richieste dal regolamento F.A.I.). Dal bordo d'uscita dell'ala in poi, la parte superiore della fusoliera, compresa la carenaturea sopra l'ala , è a sezione quadra.
I am working at the corrected version, a sorta of ' Tsunami/Pegna' mix.
Pegna's look/like (it should be) arrives this evening. I will post the drawings of frames tomorrow.
All my 'drawings' are very simple because they are intended to be fun to construct and operate.
- Please do not buy this engine: http://cgi.ebay.fr/MOTEUR-ROSSI-3-5-...92790912499303
- the tune pipe is located at the fuselage's inside and the exhaust is pointed on the left side. the pipe is enclosed inside a tube you have to make by rolling a sheet of thin plywood wich it passes through the frames. You can use a Scottex carton tube to do the job.
I remain of the idea that for the first flights it is better to leave the top of engine open, without cowl, so you have the glow plug, the carburetor and the header at your fingertips.
- So in the drawing ignore the pencil lines at the bottom of nose.. it is a mistake... better: the engine cowl is right.. but it should be less deep so you can leave 10mm of the engine's head on the air. Also, It has to point straight close to the bottom of the nose.
- Dopo un rapido studio di fattibilita', ho pronto lo schizzo riveduto e corretto del 'Ne - Piaggio nè Pegna'. Che in effetti adesso sembra uno 'Tsunami' ad ala media. A tempo debito vedro' di metter on-line il disegno delle ordinate.
Fino al bordo d'uscita dell'ala, le ordinate presentano la parte superiore a forma di trapezio isoscele, (in modo da poter riprodurre il disegno della capottina nelle dimensioni richieste dal regolamento F.A.I.). Dal bordo d'uscita dell'ala in poi, la parte superiore della fusoliera, compresa la carenaturea sopra l'ala , è a sezione quadra.
#65
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RE: My attempts...
Ah Ah.. well done! We call this the act of trying to explain something without drawings. But, there are several other methods you can use to make you understood.
- the 'main' frame (the bigger one) is made from two pinewood pieces which are glued togheter. Their shape is a trapezoid. They have different sizes because they have to accomodate the balsa doublers which are made from different balsa sheets. At rear, from the start of tail to the crack (hi hi) point, You can use 3mm balsa sheets, which are reinforced by applying them a light 4*4mm trellis structure. From that point to the firewall, the fuselage is made from 4mm balsa. The nose is made out from light balsa blocks glued around the Nylon mount with epoxi (HuH plus 300 Kgs will work fine..).
- mainframe dimensions: width: 82 mm .. height 175mm , width on top 28mm
doubler dimensions: 84*175*30 millimeters.
the top of frame is not covered. The bottom is closed with a 4mm balsa sheet. At the angles you should place 4*4 balsa strips.
Once upon the two parts are glued togheter, you can cut the holes you need trhough them.
- the other frames' dimensions (from the main to right ) are the following: width: 65 mm .. height 136 mm , width on top 25 mm
52 mm ... 88 mm 25mm
42 mm ... 58mm 25mm
- Se sbaglio mi corrigerete..
From the 'Main frame' to the firewall the fuse is made from 4mm balsa sheets.
For the Firewall, you can follow the solution i proposed on page 1 : the firewall is composed by two pieces which are glued togheter. the 'door key hole' in front, with the trapezoid without the round shapes on left and right sides glued at rear. (so you can cement the fuselage front part of sides there).
In this manner, you will be able to use a standard 'commercial' nylon type mount with ease. two balsa blocks will be glued on lef and on right and then they will be shaped.
I am wondering about the right wing incidence angle. For me, 0° is right... because of the angled large, flat bottom of the fuselage.
(oh.. i am not sure!!).
- the 'main' frame (the bigger one) is made from two pinewood pieces which are glued togheter. Their shape is a trapezoid. They have different sizes because they have to accomodate the balsa doublers which are made from different balsa sheets. At rear, from the start of tail to the crack (hi hi) point, You can use 3mm balsa sheets, which are reinforced by applying them a light 4*4mm trellis structure. From that point to the firewall, the fuselage is made from 4mm balsa. The nose is made out from light balsa blocks glued around the Nylon mount with epoxi (HuH plus 300 Kgs will work fine..).
- mainframe dimensions: width: 82 mm .. height 175mm , width on top 28mm
doubler dimensions: 84*175*30 millimeters.
the top of frame is not covered. The bottom is closed with a 4mm balsa sheet. At the angles you should place 4*4 balsa strips.
Once upon the two parts are glued togheter, you can cut the holes you need trhough them.
- the other frames' dimensions (from the main to right ) are the following: width: 65 mm .. height 136 mm , width on top 25 mm
52 mm ... 88 mm 25mm
42 mm ... 58mm 25mm
- Se sbaglio mi corrigerete..
From the 'Main frame' to the firewall the fuse is made from 4mm balsa sheets.
For the Firewall, you can follow the solution i proposed on page 1 : the firewall is composed by two pieces which are glued togheter. the 'door key hole' in front, with the trapezoid without the round shapes on left and right sides glued at rear. (so you can cement the fuselage front part of sides there).
In this manner, you will be able to use a standard 'commercial' nylon type mount with ease. two balsa blocks will be glued on lef and on right and then they will be shaped.
I am wondering about the right wing incidence angle. For me, 0° is right... because of the angled large, flat bottom of the fuselage.
(oh.. i am not sure!!).
#66
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RE: My attempts...
For those about to speed:
(they are not mine and I have not commercial purposes....... yet)
- http://www.ebay.com/itm/OPS-40-SPP-R...item1c282175da
- http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-MVVS-6-5...RPLANE-ENGINE-
/221050397718?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3377a16416
Standing on martin Hepperle's Website this engine can mount Nelson parts.
- http://www.ebay.com/itm/OPS-45-ENGIN...item3cc7a9fac6
- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OPS-40-Mod...item41671e0b9b
- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OPS-45-Mar...item41671e3887
- http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-K-B-7-5-...item3cc7aa8a95
- http://www.ebay.com/itm/K-B-Model-En...item4d025d3695
- http://www.ebay.com/itm/Another-K-B-...item4d025d3bf1
(toy man.. Freya Gnam is only interested in toy boys...).
- Old, bur nice if you like to play with engines. its dispalcement is .45 , not .21 : http://cgi.ebay.fr/MOTEUR-ROSSI-3-5-...item3a74df2911
Il caso le cose le buttasse male: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Tigre-...item337754d5f9
If you choose the OPS, please be advised the .45 is easier to tune (si ringrazia il tipo ITALIANO che anni fa spese diversi minuti al telefono con me spiegandomi il discorso... ) .. less critical when run with the tuned pipe.
(they are not mine and I have not commercial purposes....... yet)
- http://www.ebay.com/itm/OPS-40-SPP-R...item1c282175da
- http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-MVVS-6-5...RPLANE-ENGINE-
/221050397718?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3377a16416
Standing on martin Hepperle's Website this engine can mount Nelson parts.
- http://www.ebay.com/itm/OPS-45-ENGIN...item3cc7a9fac6
- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OPS-40-Mod...item41671e0b9b
- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OPS-45-Mar...item41671e3887
- http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-K-B-7-5-...item3cc7aa8a95
- http://www.ebay.com/itm/K-B-Model-En...item4d025d3695
- http://www.ebay.com/itm/Another-K-B-...item4d025d3bf1
(toy man.. Freya Gnam is only interested in toy boys...).
- Old, bur nice if you like to play with engines. its dispalcement is .45 , not .21 : http://cgi.ebay.fr/MOTEUR-ROSSI-3-5-...item3a74df2911
Il caso le cose le buttasse male: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Tigre-...item337754d5f9
If you choose the OPS, please be advised the .45 is easier to tune (si ringrazia il tipo ITALIANO che anni fa spese diversi minuti al telefono con me spiegandomi il discorso... ) .. less critical when run with the tuned pipe.
#67
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RE: My attempts...
Interesting link: http://www.desktop.aero/appliedaero/...lgeometry.html
I believe the .pdf file should be interesting (study of NACA 6 digits laminar airfoils) : http://www.google.it/#hl=it&output=s...w=1024&bih=583
they are quite old, but they are good if related to my 'start from zero' philosophy... i assume.
I believe the .pdf file should be interesting (study of NACA 6 digits laminar airfoils) : http://www.google.it/#hl=it&output=s...w=1024&bih=583
they are quite old, but they are good if related to my 'start from zero' philosophy... i assume.
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RE: My attempts...
The very first 'real' .40 engine R/C racer, by harold De Bolt : http://www.outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=2534