Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

Well it's begun. I had the plans copied and even reversed one set to get both wing halves perfect. I used my covering iron to transfer the print to the balsa. Input appreciated. Pete

Cactus.

My Feedback: (1)

that jig thing works a treat. looks about 7 hours from being finished

PAINLESS

My Feedback: (19)

Who kits the Outlaw? Where are they available from?

COLE

The Outlaw is available as a short kit only. (Laser cut ribs, plans, materials list, etc)

Available at: http://ecubedrc.com/kits.htm

Michael

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

Phillybaby I'm not that fast. Like Ross Perot said measure twice (or four) and cut once. I emailed Azarr with a few questions and he was super. I had to go back to the original plans because they did not copy exactly! the vertical scale was right on but, after about 6in width you lost an 8th inch. The middle ribs are about an 8th in farther out after sanding the 45deg angle. Before gluing the rudder mount I carefully measured the 3/16 that is removed later for the rudder and scored the wood about 1/3 depth so I can easily remove it later. Pete

Cactus.

My Feedback: (1)

looking good, dont forget to add the bearers for the wing mounted servos at this point and cut the servo holes in the centre ribs, also the paper tubes for the wing servos.

Fly4Fun2

My Feedback: (25)

I talked with Jerry Smith yesterday at the DOGS fly-in in Dayton. He was very helpful.

First of all, the elevon and rudder servos comeout of the bottom of the plane. I have mine set up this way, but the rudder servo is on top. His comes out of the bottom and has a BIG arm on it. He gets HUGE throw on the rudder. He also takes phoenlic block material (off of old circuit boards) and makes skids about 1 inch long on the nose and wingtips. I don't have this, but will probably modify mine to match.

The last was the control throws. Elevons are set at 2" on high and 1" on low - he runs -80% Expo on a Futaba 9ZAP.

As always, he was super nice to talk to and put on another incredible show!

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

Fly4Fun2 thanks for the info. I was able to move along. As you can see I have a good fit for the motor mount braces but I had to trim the inner corner to place it since I already installed the tip of Rib 1. I recomend placing the rib tip AFTER the mount bracing is installed.

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

Another view

robhoneycutt

I am in the same stage you are with this outlaw! Just finished the webbing between the ribs, and will cut rudder out next!

I wish I had a digital camera !.. taking pics, but will not have them back for a few days..

I was confused about a few items...

the dotted line for the rudder cut out did not match what they said to cut out...

In the pics, they should either say, or show, that the ribs and engine mount do not rest on the plans..matching up the lines with the leading edge and the ribs was a little confusing to me..

Everything else is simple so far!

I bought this kit at the joe nall show in May.... I am making it an electric powered outlaw....

Powering it with a hacker b50, without a gear, and 10 cells(?), which should give me 12-14,000 RPM with a 8-6 to 9-6 prop..

Are you using the webra 32?

robhoneycutt

I think I will try this mount for the Hacker... It should fit on the firewall, blind nut through... I can also make the front of the outlaw semetrical, since no exhaust...

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

Rob,
I am going to put a Webra 32 in mine. Your setup should be sweet. I too was alittle cautious when I started to build the plane suspended in the frame.
The dotted lines on the rudder are the locations for the alignment pins that keep the rudder straight at the seam since about a 1/3 of the rudder is over the hatch. Is that what yout talking about? or is it the 3/16 inch slot your going to make in the rudder mount? I measured and scored mine before gluing it in. The slot must be right on center. Hope this helps, Pete

robhoneycutt

Re: Rudder Mount .. I wish I had scored it.. but I didn't.. Its time to cut it now,, and the dotted lines I copied off of the plans are 1/4" off centerline, each side... Why would they not have dotted 3/16, centered?

Also, I know that there is some difference between our kits, (I have the E-version.. Its just a lighter weight version with wood specs reduced...I do not know how far they went to change over the plans and directions.....

I have never flown a delta before... My sig rascal goes maybe 60+ with a hacker electric, but thats the fastest thing I have... My wife says (jokingly) that I do not have to worry about a fancy covering job...(b-c it won't last long!) I hope if all else fails, I can just point it up...like a rocket..

Have you programmed elevons before? Exponential? I have a 9cap, but have never utilized any functions except servo
reverse(!)

I wonder if micro servos would be ok in mine, since it isnt going to be as fast?
Motocalc says it should fly 100-110 straight...
Downhill...(?).....
Thats also if I can stay within the 46 oz weight..

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

used spruce for both spars and stringers.

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

Trailing edge sheeting went on super. Before I flipped the plane over I took some scrap 1/16 balsa and pinned it across the frame so that nothing moved before gluing the spars and stringers. placing the 1/16 ply doubler where the spars meet.

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

Placing the shear webs took some care since the wing is tapering out to the tip and is anhedral. I may start working on the servo placement soon while it's still open to see. Also getting blind nuts into the firewall looks like fun :spinnyeye I'm going to use a Dave Brown mount and it lines up perfect on test fit but drilling the holes for the mount , throttle and fuel lines come later. One issue is how to run the Antenna. The plans show a tube running up along the aft side of the spar webs but that will not be long enough and I did not want to run it back toward the Elevon servos and the pushrods. Let me know what options I have other than to vent it. Pete

Cactus.

My Feedback: (1)

SPRUCE!!!! i used soft 1/4x1/4 balsa and i've survived a head on crash with only loosing the wing tip

robhoneycutt

Are you going to use CA Hinges?

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

Rob,
I was planning on using Dubro 1/4 scale hinges and pin them. I do not want anything coming off or flutter so 4-40 pushrods are a must. Pete

CHassan

My Feedback: (13)

I watched that fly at the DOGS Show, wow.

Fly4Fun2

My Feedback: (25)

Hey Pete -

I used the CA hinges and have had no problems. Also, I ran the antenna out per the plans - it works great and does not get in the way of anything. Jerry does the same thing.

Now get building - what's taking you so long!!!

Keith

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

Keith,
So I take it the antenna ports out the trailing edge of the wing tip? CA hinges would be easier.Also I'm using Tightbond II glue for alot of it so drying time slows me down. If I can hit lotto I'd have more time to build....
Pete

robhoneycutt

I am using rt angle triangles on the vert. stab. to trailing edge connection. I felt like more reinforcement was needed there.

Waiting on the motor mount to come in, along with the motor, to finish the leading edge, sheeting, etc..(dont want to cover up the motor mount blind nut location)...... will work on elevons, hatch covering, etc......

Having a little trouble on making trailing edge look good.. still sanding...

Hows it going with you, Rocketman?

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

Well I finished the bottom sheeting. Now I can't figure out where to locate that ply section under the rudder. Do I place it foward of the trailing edge sheeting like in the pic or do I cut away the sheeting and place it all the way back to the trailing edge and have ply running the length of the rudder for support? Also I can't figure out where the 1/64 ply lower section doubler would fit :stupid: Pete

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

bottom sheeting using SIG-BOND for glue.