Glad I don't have to pay Canadian prices!!!! Holy Crap!!!! Some of the stuff is double what I paid here in the good old USA..

I bought mine from the US, and have a US receipt But I ain't going to nag anymore about this

Tookthe Maxi Swift for a little air time today! I don't know if this is the case, but it feels more responsive over my oldNOBRAND 2.4TX that came with one of my other planes.
Absolutely love to fly with this controller. Can't wait for my TX tray to arrive so I can relax a bit more when flying.

I have a few questions about my new A9 that I wanted to bounce off you guys just to make sure I got this correct.

I dont fly 3D or competition just nice 70 inch warbirds in a scale like fasion. My radio came with 4 digital servos (HS-5485HB)which are nice but I really dont need the extra speed or torque so I bought a bunch of HS-485HB servos for most of my flying. I guess they use less power then digital ones as well.

1. Do I need to get a 6 volt battery for my receiver/servos to be safe or will these HS-485HB'sbe okay on4.8 volts? I am talking brownout preventionhere.

2. I was thinkingofusing this great SPC port (power just for the receiver) to avoid brownout and if I do this is it okay to just plug in my extra 4.8 volt battery directly into this port? This way I have a 4.8v for the servos and a seperate 4.8v for receiver? This seems to me (limited knowledge) the safest way to go. What do you think? If I use the port there is no reason to go up to 6 volt?

3. If I use the port, is the telemetry on the transmitter giving me servo battery volts or SPC battery volts?

I started to order all these 6 volt batteries then it hit me that I MAY not need them for the flying I do. I do like the idea of the RX being a seperate power suplly than the servos so I like the idea of the SPC. All thoughts welcome and thanks!

While 4.8v (4 cell) packs can be used, a 6.0v ( 5 cell) pack provides more headroom over the 3.5v minimum operating voltage should the battery sag durring heavy load. The battery type is also critical as many buy just on capacity where in many cases these cells are good in low discharge application like transmitters but can fall flat on their face when used with high torque servos. The latest AA size NiMh batteries in the 2000-2500mah range come to mind so pick your packs wisely.

I do not recommend using the SPC port in a nitro/gas plane, only electric to prevent the BEC in the ESC from causing a brownout if it sags under load, plus allow the main pack to feed back it's voltage where we can set a custom low voltage warning and simply fly as hard as we want until the warning goes off instead of using a timer.

For nitro/gas it is always best to use a battery that is known to be able to handle the servos used (or use dual packs if needed) and then the telemetry will show exactly what is going on as it will log the lowest voltage realized durring the flight to know how well it is performing in the specific application. The first thing I do before I fly is look at this screen (simply tap the battery icon to get there) and wiggle all the sticks as quickly as possible as see what the lowest voltage drops to. This is one hige advantage to the battery telemetry being built in. Most people have no idea how low a battery can drop to under load.

Follow these guidlines and you will never ever have a brownout in any airplane!

Mike..

Order A123 1100mah packs (6.6 volts)and a good cheap charger and you are set.

Thanks Mike...maybe 6 volt then.

When you are talking about avoiding certain battery packs....do you mean Hydrimax? What type of 6v packs would you recommend that would not be $$$?

I am confused about what is said to be the most sophisticated aspect of Aurora programming: flight conditions and the C/S options. The manual goes into detail about creating conditions but does NOT actually show a working example. I suppose that one can 'stuff' various functions under a Condition name and then turn that function group on or off with a switch. The old Airtronics Vision let you swap between 2 separate setups for the same airplane, which may be a similar concept. BUT since it's so important I wish it were fully explained!
I'm an old fuddy-duddy and need things spelled out. (so far have done 2 moderately complex glider set ups but for sure not taking advantage of all the possibilities.)

I use batteries from hangtimes.com (NoBS). Have a look at their site I think you will find what you are looking for....

Ron

If A123 bateries are 6.6 volt wont they fry my servos?

if its a 5 volt servo prollly. but most standard servos will be fine at 6.6 volt.

"C" stands for combined which mean if you want a particular function of mix to be the same throught different flight conditions you would use this setting which is default. Therefor if you make a change in one condition it will affect all the others.

If you want a setting to be different or non-exsistent in different conditions then you would select "S" (Single) which allows you to set the function or mix exactly how you want it per that condition without affecting the other conditions.

I hope that helps.

Mike.

FYI: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10056463/tm.htm

Hitec full TM pack available on Ebay for $200. with free shipping from a hobby place. Better than tower price even with coupon.

Hi

Hey,.......................... I was only trying to help . He said none were available . Obviously , he didn,t look very hard

Michel

We just got a large shipment by air so they should be in the shops shortly.

Pics from the GPS telemetry recorded Friday. Fun Jet Ultra clocked at 131Mph and flying the Fun Cub Waaaaay up high!

Mike.

Where can I get a connector that will fit the TX battery? I would like to charge and cycle the battery outside of the TX with a good charger.

Today I flew two flights (about 15min total) and the battery power was down to 70% from a full charge.

Hi

I bet you still had youre screen light ON , besides , 70% it,s still lots of flying time . I,ve gone down to as low a 30% .

Michel

Set back lite to like 30 seconds on. Then you will get 4-5 hours of Tx on time at least. Ihave run 5 hours with near 30% left.

Yes the back light was on. I changed it to 1 min and may reduce to 30 seconds later.


I love the radio, The response seems quite a bit faster than the other radio that I was using (9C).

Thanks

Look here:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_85...tm.htm#9553154

Lots of the battery sales places sell connectors. See Batteries USA or Batteries America. Also a place called Servowires on the net.
Good luck

Can some one give me a link to the page that tells you how to set a custom low voltage warning for my receivers? I am using A123's. Does this get set in the tx or the rx?

72

I run A123's, and I would caution you about depending upon a low voltage cut off reading for these batteries. The preferred approach is to determine how many mah your aircraft uses per flight and start out with a fully charged pack, fly till you have used approx. 50% of the pack & recharge. Been doing that for two years with a pattern airplane. Using low voltage cut off is OK for Nicad or Nickle Metal, but will keep you building new airplanes with A123's. Just my 2 cents. Good luck to you.

For Checking A123 Cells try this link. I have one and it works great and will read up to 10 cells. As long as all cells are 3.30 volts or above
then you can fly.

http://electrodynam.com/rc/EDR-207/index.shtml

Thanks I realize the way the 123's work,as I have been flying them for 2 years also. I just want to turn off my warning because it is going off for no reason on me , which is a distraction. I have been doing more reading here and still haven't found it.