Completed the fuel tank, air tank and engine installation. Always fun pluming the fuel system for the OS 61SF ABC-P.

The fuel tank has the normal clunk pickup for the fuel supply line that comes out behind the engine to a removal U shaped brass fitting and then to an inline filter and then connects to the pump inlet. One vent line that goes to the top of the tank is used for the fuel return that is connected to the pump fuel return output, the other vent that goes to the top of the tank is used a tank vent. The OS P engine returns unused fuel that the carburetor (more like fuel injection) does not use back to the tank. The vent line comes out behind the engine and has a one-way check valve on its end so the tank can draw air as the fuel is used. The check valve keeps fuel from sloshing out the vent. To fuel the system, the check valve is removed and the pickup line is removed from the U and fueling is done through the pickup line.

To be continued…

The FK SBA Speeda workshop will be closed for Christmas.

Happy Holidays all!

To be continued…

beautiful! it that my christmas present?

Wish it was David but I’m so selfish. They will be available soon though in a short kit with a glass fuselage and foam wing and stab cores from Fiberglass parts [email protected].

That's ok Mike, I have one already. No need to be greedy. Merry Christmas.

I would label that statement as an exercise in self-control...

I couldn't do it. [8D]

Brian

Competed more work on the fuel system today. I like to use a metal U tube to connect the fuel pick up line to the fuel filter line that further connects to the pump inlet. I have one for the Blue Angel but I decided to make a new one for the Speeda. The following images show the process of making the U tube using silver brazing alloy that melts around 1200 degrees. Silver brazing alloy will easily flow into to the seam at the 45 degree cut as long the seam is tight. I use a BernzOmatic torch for the brazing.

To be continued…

View of the U tube installed. After I run the engine and make sure there are no kinks in the fuel lines I’ll cut the lines a little shorter so the U sits down closer to the engine head. The white thingy on the vent line is the check valve.

To be continued…

very nice Mike. looks like i need to replumb my pumped SF. thx for the detailed posts.

You are very welcome. You would think you could buy a plastic U tube fitting but I have not found a source. I’m sure with your trade you could whip up a brass one like I did pretty easily.

you did an excellent brazing job, i will have to see if i can do the same.

8178,

Awesome work on the Speeda, as usual...

Have you tries looking for your fuel fitting in a pet store or another store in your area that has tropical fish tanks and equipment? I've seen very similar fittings in that type of store in my area, although they are a bit larger than the one you made.

Keep up the great work..

David

Thanks David. I looked around on a few sites but did not find a U.

Working on the retract gear air valve mount for the front wheel well.

To be continued…

Working on the air line plumbing. The yellow part in the line is a filtered air restrictor sold by Spring Air.

To be continued…

More plumbing work.

To be continued…

Almost done with the fuselage stuff.

To be continued…

Finished the main gear retract air line and the aileron servo cables installation. I use the ball chain shown as my pull string. The ball chain practically falls through the pathway in the wing. Need to paint the wheel wells next.

To be continued…

My usual aileron control arm installation. Note that the arms are placed as close as possible to the Dubro hinge to reduce flexing of the aileron at the control arm location.

To be continued…

Aileron hinges glued in with epoxy.

To be continued…

My “to do” list.

1. Paint wheel wells black
2. Grind flats on gear struts
3. Check nose gear steering
4. Install main gear and connect air lines
5. Test gear operation
6. Install aileron linkage/push rods
7. Check final balance
8. Epoxy rudder hinges
9. Re-check radio programming, throws, expo, aileron differential, etc.

To be continued…

Wheel wells painted with flat black Rust-Oleum. Although Rust-Oleum is fuel proof running the tuned pipe keeps most of the fuel residue off the airframe.

I let the aileron hinge epoxy set overnight so it was very well cured before moving the ailerons to break the hinges loose from the small amount of epoxy that collects at the hinge pivot point. This seems to allow them break free easier than when the epoxy is still sticky.

To be continued…

Mike,

Do you seal, fill or prime the wheel wells with anything before painting?

RG

I used flat paint so it looks fine with just one coat on the plywood but you could do one coat, sand and recoat if you wanted to use gloss.

Main gear struts flat spots ground, struts aligned, gear installed, plumbed and gear drop tested.

The air lines bypass the wheel wells inside the wing and come out in front of the retract unit. I ran the lines beside the retract unit and made 180 bend in the line to connect them to the retract unit. Makes a clean installation.

To be continued…