The pulse port in the carb is the small hole in the base closest to the back cover..Some carbs use the pulse fitting in the cover and don't drill the hole through in the carb itself..Been using pulse fittings in the cases for years, with a 128-218 Walbro fuel fitting in the carb cover.Tap an 8-32 hole in the case or transfer port and use a DuBro brass fuel fitting.....That allows the carb to rotated with the shaft parallel to the cylinder, and no bell crank....Plug the pulse hole in the cylinder to keep any possible pulse leaks from happening...

Sonofadingdongdillydarn! I didn't even think about that. My buddy stopped by and pointed this out before I read this reply. I guess it's back to the drawing board for me. Where does a guy get this insulating material?

If Conrad MT is anything like here, about 1000 miles away!!! Most large plastic distributors stock it in some form. Phenolic resin impregnated linen or some other material. Pressure laminate fiberglass is good also. G-10 Fiberglass is the only one I'm aware of that has a high operating temp rating.

if you decide to make a new adapter out of epoxy board you can rotate the carb to any position you like. lop off that little nipple, drill the adapter to match the cylinder pulse hole, position the carb where you want it (needles to the rear, straight shot linkage) and mark the spot where the carb's pulse hole come out. now use a dremel to route a channel that connects this spot to the pulse hole you drilled. keep this channel about 2mm away from the big hole in the adapter and the carb gasket will cover it right up.

getting rid of that nipple will also allow you to enlarge and match the adapter to the carb throat.

should be a link here for the G10 epoxy but can't find it.
seems i also remember someone buying a big chunk and offering small pieces to those who needed.



Mike, the walbros of mine have a "ready to drill" spot on the pump cover for the pulse line. my small zamas look like they have this spot cast into the body itself.


dave

Don't let that picture at Harbor Freight fool you. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=9967

I ordered based on this and various other threads, and a call to Harbor Freight. The red and black case saw I got has the rubber carb held on with large wire spring clip and has the new series number UT10946D ! The manuf. date was May 04.

I was at the(a) Cummings traveling tool show about a month ago. The 45cc saws were all of the new type.

Enjoy,

Jim

So what ever happended with the conversion? Can this engine be converted with the new carb setup?

Yes, theoretically. I have made an adapter out of that tough (G3?) fiberglass. According to a few local experts, it should work fine, but other projects have come between me and that engine lately. I hope to get back on it in the next few weeks or possibly after Christmas.

You guys will have to forgive me for not updating this thread. I have made the adapter, and the test run should be done possibly tommorow. The CAP-21 is almost done!!!

Deadeye
Now that's an insulator! It appears there is no direct metal contact between the head and carb. Nice work.

If I'm looking right at the pictures, you retained the pulse hole (no need for worm hole on back of adapter) and the carb still has the original rotational alignment to the head. You will use a bellcrank linkage setup?

No bellcranks yet. For throttle, I simply use a cable and a 225 MG bolted right to the firewall. The stock throttle is spring loaded, so I just loosened the spring a bit so it's not such a pull for the servo. I still have positive return to close the throttle. As far as the choke goes, I haven't decided what to do with that. I'd like to have some kind of bellcrank that would allow the pushrod to extend down by the air exit on my cowl, but I'm still working on that one.

EDIT I forgot to say the carb is in the same relation as it was stock. The needles point forward, but i don't anticipate that being a problem once I get the engine tuned right. My Quadra has never needed a readjustment of the needles.

Test runs on the ground have proved successful. I haven't tached it yet, but will as soon as I can get somebody to hold it. I have it strapped to a heavy pole, but still...I don't like to sit in front of that 20 inch meat grinder. The Homey 45 has some pull, and I can prove it with the bruises on my calves from the horizontal stabilizer! She fires right up with a twist of my Dynatron (24 volt). Transition is a little sluggish, but I'm running pretty rich on the hi and low end right now.

Hi,

I've got one of these that I haven't converted yet, just stripped down. I'm anxiously awaiting your results.

Thanks and have fun!
av8tor

You guys are wasting your time fabricating a carb mount. I have a better solution for you in this situation. Just buy a new cylinder from the old Timberman saw that had the carburator bolt-up mount. You can buy the heat dam which is the plastic carb mount adapter and all the bolts too. All for under $40.00 bucks from Outdoor Distributors online. They are just an online small engines part store.

http://www.outdoordistributors.com/H...lite_Main.html

Here are the part numbers: (These are actual Homelite part numbers)

The chainsaw model number is UT10910 - you can download the entire parts list and exploded parts view from this website.

UP-00129 - Cylinder Kit (45cc)
UP-04231 - Piston Ring
UP-04173 - Heat Dam (Carb Mount)
UP-04184 - Heat Dam Gasket
UP-04189 - Carb Screws

Glad to see you have been successful. Make sure that you are using a resistor plug in the engine. It would be a shame to have done all that work and lose the plane due to interference.

blackbaron
Your post was interesting but they show $81.34 for the head if I'm accessing their site correctly?

http://search.cartserver.com/search/...00129&go=GO%21

Its the cylinder Kit for $25.54. The assembly is the whole short-block including piston, rod, and crank.
I bought some, but they looked pretty rough like they were refurbished and dipped in an acid tank. They were etched really bad but if your painting the engine, it makes a good surface to paint. be prepared to wait a month to get them to your door. they are sloowww to get parts from.