Hey guys. I'm new to the conversion end of things and i have a few questions regarding a Homey 45cc pulled from a chainsaw.

1) How does one attach the carb? The saw used a rubber hose and I see no way I can bolt the carb to the crankcase.

2) I plan on using the conversion parts from Wacker Engines. Does my exhaust have to be on the side of the engine like that? Doesn't anybody make a muffler attachment with a 90 degree bend in it, so the exhaust can exit out of the bottom of the cowl in the center?

3) I've got lots of room in the cowl. Is it possible to just use the stock exhaust that came with the saw? It would easily fit in the cowl.

4) As far as the flywheel is concerned, do I just knock off the fins? Does anybody make a magnetic pickup similar to the DA50? Streamlined would be cool and light.

This engine is going in a Byron's CAP 21. It calls for a 35 Quadra, but after reading many threads on how light the Homey 45cc is, I decided to go with it. I have modified this plane to get more throw from the tail surfaces, and plan on some 3Ding with it.

Thanks for any answers. I may have others as the conversion progresses.

The older Homelite 45 with the black/red case had a bolt on carb and that is the one everybody's been talking about. The current style saw has a all red case and the carb attaches with a rubber boot. This boot differs a little from the Poulan 46. The Poulan is oval and the Homelite is round. Maybe the wacker guy can make you an adapter/insulator for your carb? There are others on here that can if you need one.

I break the flywheel fins off with pliers and cut the rest off with a die grinder. I balance the flywheel on one of the bigger prop balancers like the Dubro or the High point. One guy on here sanded his flywheel fins off by mounting the flywheel in a drill press.

Some people do use the stock muffler but it may not fit within a cowl.

C-H ignition or RCignition make Hal Effect pickup battery powered ignitions for these if you desire. These guys visit the forum often.

Enjoy,

Jim

That may be in reference to a pic post I did awhile back....I put an arbored cutoff disc in the chuck and the flywheel on level table, and rotate the flywheel; 4" wheel works better than 3"

Deadeye Where did you get the engine? I'm considering HarborFreight's offering at $109. Don't like the sound of the carb mounting problem.. What series is your saw?

W8ye: Does the pic shown here give you enough to tell which carb setup may be on it?

This shows the color scheme on HarborFreight saw? Can anyone tell which carb setup it may have?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=9967

mikenlapez, my saw is the 'Timberman 45'. I think I have a visual idea on how to mount the carb. I have attached a pic of how the engine now sits. The rubber hose clamps around that round adapter, then the other end attaches to a plastic housing that the carb bolts to. I think I can take a piece of aluminum pipe that will just fit over the round adapter, screw it through the side to the round adapter, and that should give me a large enough diameter to fit the carb screws to.

This outfit has a bunch of carbs and adapter plates; depending on the furnished carb and 'meat' for tapping some holes it may be an alternative.

http://www.davesmotors.com/store/carburetors.html

Some posts quite awhile back mentioned some problems with adapting around the rubber boot. Don't rememeber the make of engine.

Where did you buy your engine?

looks like the round intake spigot has plenty of material to drill and tap for a normal 3/8" thick adapter/insulator. if that little nub is for case pressure to the carb pump it could just be relocated.


dave

mikenlapez, that saw was purchased for $169.00 at Home Depot. I did use it fell about 120 dead cottonwoods before I stripped the engine out. I used a 32:1 mix for this break in period that lasted about 1 1/2 hours. I was frickin' exhausted after that! Anywho, I got some more pics of how it attaches.

Some more.

How about two brackets holding a trimmed version of the existing plastic housing?
The brackets could be strips of alum bent at 90deg, and attatched to the motor using the crankcase mounting bolts.

Maybe worth a try!

Dave_M, that idea just might work! I was thinking of using an aluminum pipe bushing that would be thick walled enough to get the carb bolts in. But #1, I doubt I will find the right diameter, and #2, I would have to relocate the case pressure tap. Thanks for the idea. I will get my mounts ordered from Peter Faith at Wacker engines, and see if I can make it work.

Mike, the saw in the Harbor frieght picture is the old style with the bolt on carb. It has the red and black case.

As a general rule, so far, the refurbished saws have been the old style while the newly purchased ones are the new style.

I found this out the hard way. I bought a 45 from a well known auction site. The seller was actually a pawn shop. It was a used one and not refurbished. When I got it, the saw was barely used at all but the chain was ruined. Anyway, it was only made a month before I bought it and was rather different from the 45 I bought from Cumming tool that was refurbished a couple years ago.

Enjoy,

Jim

deadeye
Expanding on Zagnut's comments, How about:
1) tapping for studs in meaty area 2) pheolic resin plate sized/drilled to fit to allow using the adapter per pic; 3) drill install smoke fitting nipple in head to meet existing pressure/vacuum hole; 4) someone knows where to put a nipple in that carb and gasket seal the existing hole in carb face. 5) system would allow optimizing the linkage alignment if it is a problem.

I visualize the messing around that would be involved if that rubber seal loosened either at the large OD or the pulse nipple. That rubber boot may also affect linkage as it will allow some movement.

The part is for a G62 so size and ID should be close to your carb. What model / size carb comes on that engine?

The carb is a 'Zama', made in China. That's the only markings on it, except for the choke valve. It has '58' stamped on it. I'm taking the whole works to a chainsaw repair store today to see if they can fit something to it. I will defintly keep you all updated on my findings.

EDIT I found 'H58B' and below that '42A' stamped on teh fuel inlet side. On the needle valve side, I see '0.1M'.

I recently converted a 45 cc, the old one so I did not have the carb mounting problems you are having, however I would strongly recommend that you not break of the fins with pliers. If you send the flywheel to Peter at Whacker Engines he will machine it for your and balance it for $12 bucks. Send the thing down to him with your order and he will ship it all back together. The first engine I did I machined it down on a friends lathe, however $12 was such a deal that I just sent the next one to Peter to do. If you screw up the flywheel you will end up paying about half of what you bought the saw for to get a new one.
In regards to your muffler question, give Peter a call at Wacker, he is very helpful and I am sure he would modify the muffler to meet your needs. The other thing that you may find helpful is getting a Dynatron High tork starter to turn the thing over. You need to get the fly wheel turning fast enough to get a hot enough spark. Some are better than others, but mine needed the extra torque. I have since then started it by hand, but it is a pain in the neck.
Best of luck with your project.

There are a number of good threads on this engine conversion at: http://spadworld.net/viewforum.php?f=19

including how to start the beasts without using an expensive starter. Pros/cons on the fins as well.

My 45cc Homelite starts real easy using a 19V cordless drill from Sears. Full choke, couple clicks of throttle and it pops right off. It runs just long enough to reach around and open the choke, but I don't for safety reasons. Open the choke, tap it again with the drill and away you go. Starts better than my G26.

Well the drill idea is a good one, but I did'nt have a cordless drill, so I you are starting from scratch then I would still rec the dynatron. If you go with the drill method, make sure that you have one that will turn the engine fast enough. You may have an engine that starts great by hand and that does not need the extra torque of the drill. I'm just saying that some of the engines like mine can be a little more temperamental than others, better to have to much power to turn it over than not enough. Best of luck on your project let us know how it turns out and what you decided to do.

I'm almost finished with my carb adapter, fellas. It really wasn't that bad, and that sucker is mounted tight and strong. All you need is a about a 2 1/2 square of 1/4 aluminum strap, some 10/24 or 10/32 bolts long enough to extend about 1/4 inch through the carb, and 3 or 4 6/32 countersink blots for the plate. I will post pics when I finish, but all I have for tools is a bandsaw, drill press, and belt sander, so just about anyone can make this. I'm heading to the shop now...

As mentioned above, this uses a chunk of 1/4 inch aluminum stock. I drew a line a little bigger than the gasket I had to get my shape. Measure the plate to block screws far enough out that they don't interrupt the flow of air for the carb. I used 6/32 tapered allen head screws, so I could countersink them flush with the plate.

Be careful to not get to close to the hole for the case pressure. I used a dremel to oblong the hole. You also have to countersink the plate on the hole for the case pressure, It is molded with a rounded edge, so tapering the hole allows a flusher fit. Only question I got about it is, Is it going to matter that my plate's intake hole is slightly smaller than carbs? Other than that, I'm happy with the results.

PS, I do plan on cleaning that carb and stuff once I'm done dinking around with it. I've got a buddy that is samll engine mechanic, and he suggested using some of his 'Tama' (I think that's what he said) sealant around the plate/block mating surfaces. He said that stuff works better under gasoline exposure than silicone.

nice! basically what mike and i had in mind except you managed to keep the pulse hole usable and avoid rerouting it.
now you just need to be sure that the lack of insulation isn't a problem while running.

if heat is a problem then you can just make a new adapter out of 3/8" phenolic or epoxy board. this can also be threaded for the 2 carb bolts without the need for inserts or nuts. but being thicker than the alum adapter it would be better to grind the little pulse nipple off flush with the surrounding area.

now run it!

dave

Nice job and pics. Cann't tell just where the throttle shaft is located. Will it be a straight shot aft to firewall or will it necessiate a bell crank setup?
I try to open adapter like yours up to the full ID of the gasket just to smooth the flow. (Also less metal = less weight )

Would heat be a problem with aluminum? And I'd love to run it, but I have no mounting adapters yet.

I'll have to use a bellcrank of some kind. Don't know where yet, until I get my mounts.

I would have liked to open the adapter up, but as you notice on the case, it has a rectangular hole. If I was to open to the full diameter as the carb, it would cut into my pulse hole, and that just wouldn't work. It's about as wide as I dare go.

Deadeye
Re the heat can be a big problem as it tends to vaporize the fuel inside the carb or something like that. The 'plastic' adapters serve to act as an insulator and the added thickness allows shaping the adapter's transfer port from circular to the rectangular shape in the head.
The gasket material is the only insulation on an alum adapter setup.

I needed to increase the adapter thickness on a Ryobi to allow the linkage to open fully...Ended up laminating several layers of good ply to desired thickness, shaped and drilled and epoxied again the pulse port and main port. Working fine so far, not a lot of time on it.(darn puter is hiding the pic!)



ZAGNUT
Any idea where that pulse port is routed inside the carb? Don't know if they are all the same, but have a WT series Walbro that has pulse port in the cover that has the center screw. (Looks like the one next to deadeye's ring finger post 8) It's insert in that raised ring.