i have this eng for about a month. the engine work Excellent for 6 or 7Flights.
then the next weekend. the problems start [&o]

ok- the engine start hard,(need to use electric starter) only with choke, when i release the cheoke the engine dying after about 10 secends.(in full Throttle)
its looks like he can not pump the fuel by him self.

1- I clean the carboretor,averthing is new inside(its a new engine)...
check the Diaphragm....the hols,needles,Etc.
2- seat up the H&l needls again.
3-check the fuel tank and fuel lines.
4-Praying and cursing the Chinese....
5- start the engine- and ....same sh...t

the carburetor Manufacturer is HLIC
[link]http://www.hlic.com.cn/en/PRODUCT/en_pic_display.asp?pp_id=228[/link]

Any suggestions?
thenks

I've got the XYZ 26cc chinese engine, maybe the same as yours just different name, but I've had excellent results. Granted it does'nt start right up, requires a few more flips, but it does hand sart and never stalls. Its not the most powerful 26cc out there, its swinging a Xoar 17X8 at 7300rpm about 700rpm's less that I expected, but it hauls my 18lbs. 1/4 Cub around quite well. It does have the RC Excell ignition with the chinese knock-off Walbro carb. Dont know if it matters, but are you running a real NGK CM-6 plug? Are you sure theres no trash in the needle passages? How about the carb filter, is the screen obstructed? How about fresh gas? Other than those I dont know. Is it under warranty, can you send it back?

Probably a leaking carb mount

PM Sent

Not to discount the potential for a leaking carb mount, but a bunch of us ran across a similar problem a few weeks ago, and there was a string specific to it that ran like 5 pages. In the end, it was discovered that the spring under the needle valve lever was too strong, overpowering the diaphram's ability to open the needle valve. If it was replaced by a spring from a Walbro rebuild kit you're back in business.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_98...tm.htm#9983076

I was able to get mine going with the original spring by adjusting the lever VERY slightly to the point it was level with the carb body around it.

If your choke plate has a hole in it, you can make the engine dramaticaly easier to start by hand by simply soldering that hole closed. Mine starts easily within 5-10 flips cold, including the choking process.

I had problem with hard starting (especially when warm) for awhile, but it ended up being a tuning problem. The engine would fire easy enough, but would surge and quit, no matter the throttle setting. I was sure it was a fueling problem, but I couldn't find anything wrong. I'd previously had the engine running well and thought the needles were fine. I eventually tweaked the settings a bit and find out that my low needle was off by about a full revolution. Anyway, since that adfjustment my engine has been good.

After I worked on the engine all day I concluded that the membrane is not good, is a bit distorted, even the gasket between the carburetor and the cheap plastic Chassis was not good, and I have to made a new gasket.
But all that did not help, after several hours I found the solution - I changed the engine to moki 180 !!!
Conclusion: The cheap comes out expensive. now I need to get a new membrane, and I do not know if it will be good and not make trouble in the future.

That sure sums it up.
Spend a bit of money, end up spending a bunch more to solve the problem when for just a little more in the first place, you would have had less hassles.

These cheap engines are good for very little IMHO. Even when they come from a more expensive source, they are still made by the same people who try the same tricks to keep them cheap.

I learnt that the hard way. Nowadays, if it isn't from the best known European manufacturers, it doesn't power any of my planes. The overall difference in price is very little.

Hope the new carb kit etc works for you.