Havn't heard from BME 115/116 Extreme owners lately and I'm wondering how you all are doing with your engines.
Mine continues to amaze me with how nice it runs now all the Carb kinks are worked out. Transition from low to high is as smooth as it gets and the power is way up there where only BME can go. When I first dialed it in and tached it, I had a 27x10 NX or Xoar prop on it and got 7400 static. I ran that prop as long as I could getting some time on the engine but I found I let it rip too much cause it just sounded too cool. I've run it quite a bit with the 28x10 PT but that prop really loads an engine and I feared I'd get careless one day and hurt the engine pushing it too hard. Now I'm running a NX 28x10 and getting 7130. It will rip the prop on the way up from a hover. Pulls the plane around without straining.
here's a few pics.
Home made Canns. There's a thread here how to make your own http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_73...tm.htm#7385806
Home made Reed block stuffing, cured almost all the earlier problems. I have a BME reed block fix piece and it looks like it will work as well. I'll try it on my older 115 in an Extra.
And the plane it's in. I'll try to always have a Katana around for their clean flying abilities. Pilot is making the exact same plane for those interested.
How are you doing with yours?

The new reed blocks that BME is using with the 116 eliminated the need for the stuffing plates. I have one of the new aluminum reed block versions which appears to be a little less in cavity area than the new plastic one. Hard to tell though. I don't know which of them is being incorporated with the new engines but either of them cured the problems the early 115's had.

hey you guys....

If a guy was to come across a used 115 some where , does Tom sell a new version reed block you could buy instead of stuffing the old one and experimenting with it? I have come across a few really good deals over the last few months on 115's , but stayed away from them due to that dang reed block. The 116 is something i really would like to get one day , now that the reed cage thing has been all figured out. Guy....is that yellow extra the one with my old 115 in it?

If you come across one of the original 115's you can obtain a new reed block and wga 7/9 carb from BME. No cage stuffing required. That's what was done with mine and quite a few others. Fixes them right up

Yes, But it's a SD Katana. Find a 115/116 and don't look back. I have a plastic reed block from The new owners and it looks like it will do the trick. If you find one there's a couple things I suggest doing like adding the AI snorkel and re-locating the diaphram vent tube to where mine is. And adding a very tiny hole to transfer puddled fuel back into the flow. Toss the head gasket so the lower ring doesn't travel so low it digs into the intake bridge. Thats about all I did to mine, other than the home made reed block stuffings.
The Katana goes up like a missle and you can blip the throttle and rip any time you want.

Be sure to check piston to head clearance before tossing out any base gaskets.

Tom,

What is the suggested squish band on a 115-116?

I think I am going to have to buy one of those hats Guy, tired of burning my face and bald head. That Katana is just one big kite.
Oh, and yes my old 115 still runs fine and so does it's half brother the 58.

I try to keep the clearance at .036" - .040" .

The new 116's come with an aluminum reed block and WGA 9 carb on them now though correct? I knew the carb was part of the problem on the older 115's , but i was thinking it was more along the lines of a faulty reed cage design....hence stuffing the blocks in there? I'll probably end up getting a new 116 anyways when the time comes. Did my first runs on the little 58 this weekend and WHOA! Impressive little sucker!

It was a combination of both. The original carb is normally used, in our applications, on a 150cc engine, so it was too much carb. The reed blocks were a straight through design with waaaay too much open area around the reeds. All that has been taken care of with the new engines, and those that made the request received new carbs, reed blocks, or both. There was a small fee (postage) for a new plastic reed block, and a larger fee for a replacement aluminum one. There was also a fee if you wanted a wga 9 carb ro replace the wb 25 that they originally had.

The WB25 was not the best carb, unless converted to a 3 needle carb. The WGA 9 worked well and does even better with the stuffed reed block.

Hey guys, I need some help. I am setting up a BME 110 on ES Composite tuned pipes. Any recommendations on header length? I was thinking 11 -11 1/2". What do you think?

I would start at 14" and go down from there. You will probably end up at 12 give or take.

i think i read on fg around 10 inches my bme 58 has a 11 inch header

How dies your 58 run at 11"? Is it smooth through the whole range?

yes it very smooth for the range we are still working out length on FG we are thinking maybe 1/2 more cut be cut on the header......we just love right now that is so smotth.....

Thanks for your help, fellows. I will start at 11", & seehow it goes.

Hi.

I am reasonably sure header length is a function of resonance frequancy, and resonance frequancy is a function of rpm. Given that the larger prop on the 110 is going to turn less rpm than the smaller prop on the 58, I would think the 116 would work better with a longer header.

How did your tuning go?

I have a BME twin and am getting the es pipes. Any info would be welcome.

.

The 58/115/116 all have looong exhaust durations. It doesn't hurt to start long and work your way back. I would recommend doing this on a test stand, because it is a b$tch doing it in a plane. If you do the math the length from the piston face to reflector cone is almost prohibitive in our model airplanes and that is from Mr. engine himself Gordon Jennings.
The 116 is just two 58 cylinders put together, if one likes higher rpm so will the other. Shoot for mid 6's to 7's on the 115/116.

Can anyone on here tell me which carb is on my early 115 extreme? and do I have the correct reed block?

You should be able to read the number off the side of your carb?

that looks like the newer block that BME sent me years ago. i think those came with a WGA 7 or WGA 9 if i recall correctly.... what r u going to put that beast N?

The early 115 had a WB-25. It's so noted on the side of the carb. Later versions have a WGA-9. Also noted on the side of the carb. Look for very small stamp lettering.

Send some larger pictures to BME for Tom to tell you what you have. Externally the reed blocks look the same.