Do you pros still use the Venom mini temp gauge. I was reading some post several years ago & wonder if thats still the one to use. Price is right........

I'm not a "PRO", but I use one it works well.

thank you

The Venom, which uses an NTC resistor, is not the most professional but I still use it on my engine. (some day I will upgrade to professional thermocouples in the plug washer)
The Venom's tiny battery drains quickly, so I took it out, and soldered leads to the connections. I now use a NiMH cell, that lasts about three months between charges

I finally have my engine running & sounding good. Very good throttle response, when I bring it down from full throttle there is no wait for rpms to drop, & no mid range burble. Very nice low idle with no stalls & about 7050 rpms. My only question is..... am I getting this great condition but maybe running to hot. Thats why I,m gonna get the sensor. Is the low needle mostly responsible for getting hot....

soarrich, do you use yours onboard or just check it when you land....

On-board, but lately I've just used it on my test stand. I've found the timing to affect the temps, too far advanced and it overheats more easily. My test stand has a tach and temp gage.

Got an new toy this past week and for measuring temps it's pretty cool. The Spektrum DX8 has telemetry built in and temp is one of the readings available to see on the transmitter screen. It records the hottest temp reading during the power on session as well as giving an instantaneous temp readout.

Dave, your mixture should be adjusted for optimum fuel burn (combustion efficiency) not engine temp. Engine temps should be corrected through proper cooling air baffling and air exit size etc. A glow engine adjusted rich will run cooler with little to no detrimental effect on engine life. A gasser however will create excess carbon when adjusted excessively rich and that carbon can cause premature wear.

The supplied batteries are junk, I replaced mine with some 1.5V watch battery that was slightly thicker and it has lasted all summer.

I found the best place to run the sensor is wrapped around the cylinder right about where the top of the combustion chamber is with the sensor part at the back of the cylinder. It usually will run hotter in that position and little to no air flow over it depending on your baffling.