I have a great running DL-50 with just one of the engine mount tabs broken. It is the old style thinner tabs. Would it be worth fixing? Could it be welded? I looks like you have to replace the complete case. Any advice?

You need to find a case half for a DL-50?

I understand the DLE 55 has different dimensions at the cylinder flange.

I have all the parts that will let you convert it to a 55cc.

You will use your old case bearings, reed, carb, stand offs, crank, prop hub, prop nut shaft and ignition.

I furnish you with new crankcase, piston, rings wriest pin bearings, cylinder gasket and cylinder.

PM me if you are Interested

Can you just get the half? Does it have to be changed together? Thanks

CAN YOU RECOIL SPARK PLUG TRHEAD

Yes

Drill it out for 14mm threads and install a 14mm to 10mm adapter.

Milton

They come as a set, The 55cc will not fit the 50cc

Milton

Should the bearings be replaced? Are they hard to get out of the case w/o damaging them?

Took it apart. bearings look good.I will PM you later. I have a friend that says he has a crankcase for a CRrcpro 50. It looks like the parts cross over to the DL. I will match it up tomorrow. I am scared i will damage the bearing when removing. I`ll see if i can use just the rear of the crankcase half.If not i will call you.Thanks

I think Jody at VVRC still has DL50 parts...

http://www.valleyviewrc.com/

I think Milton's offer is well worth considering.
Rather than patch up the 50, why don't you consider the conversion to 55 Milton suggests?

alumiweld the tab back on... it goes by various names/brands.. local harbor freight will have it

Why not try a local welding shop with tig equipment?

The engine is working OK, and it can be perfectly welded.

For DIY:

http://www.durafix.com/

Yeah, that`s the first thing i thought of is to weld it. The only thing is, that there is a design flaw in the 3 other tabs being to thin. Thought about welding to beef them up. By the time i do all that and warp it with the heat it may not be worth it. I would like to find a Junk DL-50 to just get the backplate off it that has the thicker tabs. I am still thinking about the offer from Badassmaxx. the engine is disassembled now. There is a crapload of carbon on the top of the piston and top of the cylinder i have to clean if i want to reuse it.I don`t know if i would see a major power diff. by converting it to a 55. Plus i have to go thru the pain of break`in adj`s. Thanks

If it originally had a 10mm plug this will work fine but if it originally had a 14mm plug thread you can not drill it out larger and still install a 14-10mm adaptor. The hole will be too big. You will have to install a helicoil and then use a 14-10 mm adaptor. Another problem with drilling out past 14mm is that you decrease the seat area for the sparkplug.

Here is a picture of how I repaired my ZDZ 60 when I broke off 2 mount lugs. I decided to remove all the lugs and put the backplate in a lathe and machined a diameter on the backplate. I then machined a ring with the same ID as the OD of the backplate. I then welded the two together and drilled holes radially in the ring for mounting to firewall. It worked perfect but care must be taken to not warp the backplate or have porosity in the weld. I had my welding done in a welding tank and the actual weld was done under water. No warping!!! If you are welding in open air it is advised to preheat both objects to 500- 700F before welding depending on thickness of material.

Maybe you could apply this technique to your DL engines.
It is probably 5x stronger than those damned cast mounting lugs!

Speedy

Just get the tab welded back on and don't worry about the other 3 untill they fall off too. Make a jig to hold the tab square while it is done to keep it square. Once fixed, make sure you mount the motor on a good square mounting surface.. If you are running it on long extensions, put a plate directly on the motor to keep the load evenly distributed.

Anyone else seeing the humor in this? You see similar situations all the time lately.

Regardless of which Chinese brand it is, we're seeing broken mounting tabs, stripped plug bosses, trashed bearings, broken cranks, broken mufflers, etc. Then there's the cries for help about how to fix or where to obtain parts. The costs involved with the repairs brings the total cost of that cheap engine to a level exceeding what a great engine would have cost had it been purchased instead of the cheapie. It's now come full circle.

Yea, I know there's going to be a lot of angry retorts over te previous statements but those that have the ability to recognize the truth when it bit them on the butt will understand. Those that have some simple concept of cheap is the way to go will never see the light of day. it costs a little more to make it right the first time. It costs a lot more to make it right the second and third time.

Ditto T.O.M. !!
I can also add a little humor to your comment.
There has never been a cure for the common crash! No matter what brand you fly!

Speedy

Just take it to your local community college and have the top dawg aluminum tig welding student bevel both sides and weld it back on. I have done this many times, and since the crank case is cast aluminum it shouldn't distort very much or enough to hurt it. Make sure it is completely disassembled, in other words no seals or gaskets.

I am a career weldor, yes the puddle is dirty but if done right should hold well.
use 3/32 E5056 Aluminum filler rod. A/C, High frequency
Tungsten: PURE (not thoriated or anything else oriated) or rare earth only.
Start out with 35 AMPS
GOOD LUCK
PS-I made these mufflers for my AIR HOBBIES (Sachs-Dolmar) 50cc twin as the stock ones I felt were too heavy thereby lightening it by 9 ounces.

Maybe it is a time to get a DLE55?

Good call.

I have to admit it has been a good China engine. It was one of the first ones they produced before they made the lugs thicker.I mean the thing ran perfect and pulls like a mule. I bought it 3rd hand. It must have at least 400 flights on it, maybe more.It is hard to guess. The thing is, there is hardly any wear on the piston and sleeve.I may take it to a welding shop just to see.

I agree with Steve Helland. I'm not a career welder, but I have done(and still do) enough tig welding. Just weld it. It will be inexpensive enough and easy to have done.

The break is close to the bolt hole and dowel pin.The weld would block where the standoff spool would go. I guess it could be groung down?

Valve,

I remember Jody at VVRC saying he still had some DL50 parts recently. Have you tried him?