nefariousrc

My Feedback: (2)

Now that I've got my Pulse 125/DLE20 combo in the air I've decided on my next build.  I'm now going to shoe horn one into a Great Planes Super Chipmunk.

acdii

How much less fuel proofing is needed with the Gas over glow? Would that save on weight?

SpinnerRow

Well, I would still fuel proof it. I had a Saito 1.00 in there before the DLE 20 so it was fully fuel proofed but I would still have done it in case the tank leaked or something. There is no slime on the plane though after it is broken in and tuned right.

RCplanman

My Feedback: (16)

Need a little help. I,ve lost my favorites list so I,m like a fish out of water. I,m setting up a new plane & need a supplier [ state-side] that sells a optical kill switch.
thanks. Bill

Johnny_Zero

My Feedback: (44)

Try these:

www.troybuiltmodels.com

http://www.valuehobby.com/index.php

http://www.redwingrc.com/accessories.html

Just a few, but it's a good start.

Worzey

Hi all
I've just bought a Goldberg Sukhoi ARF which is brand new, in box.
Do you think the DLE 20 will suit it, or will it suffer in vertical/prop hanging?
Cheers
Ian

RCplanman

My Feedback: (16)

Johnny Zero, thank you for the leads, Red Wing Has what I needed at a very good price. Ididn't know this company so that's another plus for me. Bill

ghoffman

My Feedback: (3)

Just use a IBEC, plug it into a Rx port and be done with it. I have 5 of these on DLE-20 to DA-120 and they work great:
http://www.tech-aero.net/ultra-ibec

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

Worzey - I bought a used CG Sukhoi 26m, 73" wings, and the DLE 30 is the perfect engine for it. Haven't gotten up to 3D yet, but do about everything else. This thing has unlimited vertical - right from takeoff - and excellent speed - it's awesome. I'd go with the DLE 30 for this plane.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

I bought one of those (IBEC) prior to realizing I could supply power to any opti switch through a diode or 2 to drop the voltage to something usable by the ignition pack. That drops the price of that option by half or so.... for those so inclined

Worzey

Microdon2
Do you have any pictures of your DLE install? Did you need to alter anything? What size prop?
Cheers

RCplanman

My Feedback: (16)

Ahicks, sounds interesting but what kind of diode & where do I buy them. You can see I'm short on knowlege re;radio wireing. thanks, Bill

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Pre-made, bottom of this page.....
http://www.shop.kavarootusa.com/cate...?categoryId=10

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Try a search on "1N4007"?
Doing this has been discussed quite a few times here, but there's new guys signing on all the time. That's why I brought it up. I wished I had figured this out sooner than I did. The pre-made are fine, but if you can solder, these diodes are in a 5 or 6 pack for less than 5.00 at Radio Shack. Depending on your input voltage all you have to do is add 1 or 2 in the power line to your opti switch for assurance you'll never supply too much voltage to your ignition.

SpinnerRow

I think "1N4007" is the part number most discussed here but I'm using a 1N400x diode on both of my DLE 20s and at nine cents each at my local electronics store and 10 minutes of work, it is well worth it!

raydar

Worzy seen that sukoi on ebay and thought about buying it, did not bother as I have one in the loft in kit version to be built. As said above a dle 30 will be perfect, thats what mine will get, as a matter of fact have the motor already as well. A 19 inch prop will be about right. Prob not the best thread for this discussion though, enjoy your plane.

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

Worzey - Didn't have to do any special to fit the DLE 30 in to the Sukhoi. Just drilled new holes in the firewall for the new blind nut postions. The spacing from the prop-plate to the cowl is about 1\4 inch - perfect for this plane. The guy I bought it from had already glued some weight onto the tail for balance, and that seems to have worked out fine (so you may need to do that, or move the battery back). Next time I take the cowl off I'll take some pics. Had the plane out on Sunday morning and I just love the way this plane flies.

I see you got the plane from eBay. Is it the blue and mustard coloring? And the 73" wing? I know that version is out of prod, and the newer Sukhoi is smaller, 68", I think. Can I ask how much you paid for it? I got mine for $150 at the WRAM show swap-shop in Westchester, NY.

Worzey

I paid £200 for it.

Not cheap, but kits/ARTF's from the U.S are always good quality and are pretty expensive in the UK at the moment. A Great Planes Giant Super Sporster will currently cost nearly £300. So, I felt that £200 for a BNIB CG SU26 was money well spent.

I look forward to flying it once I have finished my current projects!

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

A thousand pardons! My original post edited so as not to mislead. Thanks!

RCplanman

My Feedback: (16)

aHicks, I got a couple In 4007 diode's-question is how do I put them the power line solder them in & cover w/shrink tube?. Thanks, Bill

SpinnerRow

On the plus (red) side of the power cable with the stripe on the diode pointing away from the battery.


highlighted by the moderator

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

That's how I would do it as well, though I've heard of people (that likely know a lot more about it than I do!) installing them in the negative side, so I'm not sure it makes too much difference. In the end, with the diode(s) in the circuit, if it powers up the ignition you're good to go. If it doesn't work, turn the diode end for end and that should fix it!

I think of the diode kinda like a switch. Normally that's installed in the "hot" side of the circuit, doesn't make much difference what you're working on. BUT - the switch will be just as effective most time, if installed on the negative side.

Regarding the shrink wrap, I use 2 sizes. A size big enough to cover the individual solder joints, then a bigger size that would slip over the diode(s) as well as the shrink wrapped solder joints to stiffen things up to the point I'm not worrying about that piece of work flexing too much.

SpinnerRow

Actually it does make a difference if you install it on the positive or the negative side. If you put it on the negative side, you create two ground planes due to the difference in voltage between true ground on the battery and the artificial one you created by putting the diode on the negative side. What this does is create ground loops and ultimately noise which can give you problems with radio interference.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Alrighty! See, I knew there was a good reason to put them in the positive side!
Kidding of course, but the point is likely very solid. I wouldn't know. I do know the person suggesting the ground side installation is pretty well known, and nobody challenged him even after I questioned the method. Not into starting an electronic word war over it, the positive side works just fine for me. I stand corrected, was only attempting to keep the install as simple as possible. Thanks again Spinner!

RCplanman

My Feedback: (16)

aHichs & ya all, thanks for the good advice which I,ll follow.It'll be a bit before I get it back togeather but I will respond after the installation. Thanks, Bill