What Aircraft are you installing your DLE20
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I JUST GOT THE WORLD MODELS ZERO 60 I WANTED TO KNOW WHAT YOU GUYS THINK ON THE ENGINE I SHOULD GO WITH? DLE 20,YS 110 OR YS 120 I HAVE ALL THREE? PLEASE HELP
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doesn't sound like you need a lot of help. Have nothing against YSs, have spent the money on a few myself. IMO THE engine of choice for 60 size warbirds is the DLE 20 preferably with a 16x8 [or 15x10] prop. Have also seen it work well with 15" 3 blades. You should see something approaching 14 lbs of thrust on planes that should come in below 10 lbs even with retracts. You should want to reinforce the front end a bit but the DLE is skinny enough w/muffler to easily fit within most cowls and at 5.5"+ short enough as well. The only drawback, of course, the rear carb although a simple choke pull rod extending forward will take care of that. On any inverted installation access to the mixture screws does require a small access hole in the top of the cowl.
Anyway. the DLE is the way to go, particularly if you like high speed low fly-bys that'll have your knees knocking
and likely a whole lot better behaved [and cheaper to run] than the YSs.
Anyway. the DLE is the way to go, particularly if you like high speed low fly-bys that'll have your knees knocking
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I was doing some research on the world models super sport senior. Trying to decide on a 2 stroke or 4 stroke then I came across this thread on the dle20. I purchased the plane ready to fly except for the engine. I know it had a glow engine on it before so I assume the fuel line would have to be changed out and possibly the tank? I mainly fly nitro helis so nitro planes may be easier for me. What is the biggest pro's for gas vs the nitro? Also are there any upfront cost involved other than getting the engine itself for a first time gasser. Also based on the plane at around 9lbs and manual says to use a .91 four stroke I think the dle20 would work. Just not 100% on the prop clearance needed though.
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I have bashed a Tiger 60 for the DLE20 and the build has gone well with lots of changes to the whole plane, even has plug in wings now. Engine will fit in a 4" wide cowl and with a J'TEC compact muffler you can keep it all in the cowling. I am also useing the DU-BRO isolation mount which is a good set up except getting at the needles is a bit challenging as I turned the carb. 180 degrees to aid throttle, fuel and choke set up. I will be swinging a 16-8 Zinger prop as it seams to be the prop of choice. For those wanting to know more about this engine there is a couple hundred pages in the gas engine section that covers everything and more about this great little engine.
You can see the build here: www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11326847/tm.htm
You can see the build here: www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11326847/tm.htm
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my bet would be the 4s 90. The model you are looking at is large [81 in] but very light for its size and built accordingly. Same applies I'm guessing to the WM Super Stunts 60 I've flown which I did have an OS 91 4s on. The DLE is going to want a 16" min prop and likely create a whole lot more vibration than the structure is really designed for. Wonder if it would put up with all the extra power as well although I suppose that's why we have a throttle stick.
Love these small gassers, particularly the DLE - not so sure you'd want it in the model you're talking about.
Love these small gassers, particularly the DLE - not so sure you'd want it in the model you're talking about.
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Thanks for your comments captain. I guess I will lean towards the 4 stroke. One day I do want to try out the dle20 when i have an aircraft large enough to handle it. Something about the larger planes that I love!
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I have a DLE 20 in a GP .60 size Extra. I have been flying a H9 .60 Ultra Stick with a Zenoah 20 in it for 8 or 9 years now.
When done right these size planes can handle the 20cc gas.
When done right these size planes can handle the 20cc gas.
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no, using the DLE not so much about plane size as it is about plane construction. There are numerous 60 size planes the DLE works fine on - not to mention the DLE a common choice for 60 size warbirds.
The WM ARF you mentioned actually a very large plane that is also quite light. I flew the WM Super Stunts 60, stick style, but the same size and wght as the low wing you are talking about. I put an OS91 [and a 14x7] on that one despite mfgr suggestions for a 70. It took off in 3' if asked and more than enough vertical - lots of fun.
The DLE is going to want a 16x8 or even a 17x6, turn either something into the 8000s and produce thrust in the neighborhood of 14 lbs. This works well on aerobatic designs and/or warbirds but IMO is more engine than the Super Sport Senior is designed for. The Super Sport a lightly built plane and much more of a long wing trainer - and that is not necessarily bad. It's simply what it is.
I have [2] 20s one on the Phoenix Edge I just posted and another on Extra 330 - both planes are well short of 70" WS but a bit heavier than the Super Sport. Both planes are also designed for near 3D aerobatic capabilities [and loadings]. Even if you would strengthen things to a point that the Super Sport would tolerate the vibrations of the gasser, think there would remain a possibility you could rip the wings right off it.
The WM ARF you mentioned actually a very large plane that is also quite light. I flew the WM Super Stunts 60, stick style, but the same size and wght as the low wing you are talking about. I put an OS91 [and a 14x7] on that one despite mfgr suggestions for a 70. It took off in 3' if asked and more than enough vertical - lots of fun.
The DLE is going to want a 16x8 or even a 17x6, turn either something into the 8000s and produce thrust in the neighborhood of 14 lbs. This works well on aerobatic designs and/or warbirds but IMO is more engine than the Super Sport Senior is designed for. The Super Sport a lightly built plane and much more of a long wing trainer - and that is not necessarily bad. It's simply what it is.
I have [2] 20s one on the Phoenix Edge I just posted and another on Extra 330 - both planes are well short of 70" WS but a bit heavier than the Super Sport. Both planes are also designed for near 3D aerobatic capabilities [and loadings]. Even if you would strengthen things to a point that the Super Sport would tolerate the vibrations of the gasser, think there would remain a possibility you could rip the wings right off it.
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Hi Ben, I noticed your speedster. It looks awesome! I'm building the 1/4 scale speedster by Bridi / Great Planes, and was wondering, did you use the DLE 20 in yours? What's the all up weight?and the wing span?beautiful model, love this era of aviation. Thanks, Steve.
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Captain 2;
I've got a Sea Fury that's been discontinued with a fiber glass body. It looks like the wgt will come in at around8-9 lbs depending on the CG etc. I'm ready to fit an engine to it and I was concerned about your comment about gasser vibration I do have a isolation mount for another plane. Do you recomment that I use the isolation mount? I've never run the DLE 20 is the vibration a problem? I was going to start with a 17/8. Would like your opinion. Tks.
Ron
I've got a Sea Fury that's been discontinued with a fiber glass body. It looks like the wgt will come in at around8-9 lbs depending on the CG etc. I'm ready to fit an engine to it and I was concerned about your comment about gasser vibration I do have a isolation mount for another plane. Do you recomment that I use the isolation mount? I've never run the DLE 20 is the vibration a problem? I was going to start with a 17/8. Would like your opinion. Tks.
Ron
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Sorry can't really offer an opinion - simply no familiar with the Glasair and, for that matter, how it's built. Both Dubro and Thunder Tiger make a decent isolation 120 size mount - available thru Tower. Don't think that vibration is necessarily an issue - there are lots and lots of 8 to 10 lb airplanes the DLE 20 will work great with. You might also consider a 17x6, or even an 18x6 Vess or Xoar. Tests on the DLE has 17x6s producing 14 lbs. + of thrust at about 8300 rpm. It will, therefore be a lot of engine on a 9 lb anything - but that is why, I guess, we have throttle sticks
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Hay GlassAir72,
I have a DuBro vibration mount on a Big Stick .60~.90 with a RCG 20cc gas engine. I was told that anti vibration mounts don't work to well with gas engines and I'm beginning to think the gentleman that told me this, knew what he was talking about. One leg of the DuBro mount cracked (with DuBro replacing it free of charge) and I've gone through two rudder servo's, one elevator servo and one DLE RPM indicator...that have gone bad. Anti Vibration mounts weigh more then regular mounts the engine comes with and all my subsequent models with 20cc gas engines, were mounted using the hard plastic mounts that came with the engine.
A 17x8 may be a bit to much prop for a DLE 20. A 16x6 is the prop most guys in our club fly with, with their DLE 20cc engines. I found a 17x6 Xore prop gave me the most thrust and power, but I fly with a "S" series Master Airscrew 16x8 with my RCG 20-the reason I use the M.A. prop is the price and durability. Xore props are light...and a bit brittle and will crack with just a light touch on the ground. Our club field is notorious for cross winds and turbulence, so I use the M.A. prop, because its a whole lot tougher then the wood Xoar and can stand a bit of abuse. Now the RCG 20 is a bit more powerful then the DLE 20, but only because the RCG 20cc engine is closer to 23cc in displacement, but both engines are almost the exact size.
Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui
I have a DuBro vibration mount on a Big Stick .60~.90 with a RCG 20cc gas engine. I was told that anti vibration mounts don't work to well with gas engines and I'm beginning to think the gentleman that told me this, knew what he was talking about. One leg of the DuBro mount cracked (with DuBro replacing it free of charge) and I've gone through two rudder servo's, one elevator servo and one DLE RPM indicator...that have gone bad. Anti Vibration mounts weigh more then regular mounts the engine comes with and all my subsequent models with 20cc gas engines, were mounted using the hard plastic mounts that came with the engine.
A 17x8 may be a bit to much prop for a DLE 20. A 16x6 is the prop most guys in our club fly with, with their DLE 20cc engines. I found a 17x6 Xore prop gave me the most thrust and power, but I fly with a "S" series Master Airscrew 16x8 with my RCG 20-the reason I use the M.A. prop is the price and durability. Xore props are light...and a bit brittle and will crack with just a light touch on the ground. Our club field is notorious for cross winds and turbulence, so I use the M.A. prop, because its a whole lot tougher then the wood Xoar and can stand a bit of abuse. Now the RCG 20 is a bit more powerful then the DLE 20, but only because the RCG 20cc engine is closer to 23cc in displacement, but both engines are almost the exact size.
Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui
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I also have a DLE 20 on a super decathlon 120 with the dubro vibration mount. I haven't yet had any problems, being only five or six flights with it, but it does seem to vibrate quite a bit. I'm not sure what to think, I know I don't care for the vibration. I don't know, I'll just keep flying, and keep a close eye on things.should I be trying the hard mount?thanks, Steve.
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Bobby of Maui, Nice looking Stick. Might I ask , what's the span and Wt.? I'm just finishing a Birdi 81 in. same colors but no Wt. yet.I,m putting a 20cc RC Aero
Thanks,
bill
Thanks,
bill
#1417
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Hay RCplanman,
I have a Big Stick .60~.90 ARF model sold by Tower Hobbies. It has a 66.5 wingspan with 1000 sq/inches of wing. My model came out to 9 pounds 2 oz. ready to fly. I mounted the rudder servo and elevator servo aft near the rudder on each side and installed a good tail wheel assembly that Tower sells. The model has a huge vertical presentation and a pure blast to fly. I added rudder to elevator wires on each side of the model, for this area really does shake quite a bit with a two stroke gas engine running. I also beefed up the tail area just forward of the rudder...to the elevator. This is a weak area of the Big Stick and most Ugly Stick type models that can be bought as an ARF today. I've had several folks tell me they had the same weakness in their Ugly Sticks.
I have seen this Birdi Stick fly many years ago...and you may want to put a 30~38cc engine in that model. It will fly just fine with a 20cc engine, but it will not have the vertical performance of a lighter model. Make sure your CG is good and have fun. I've been flying Ugly Sticks for 40 years and just love this airframe. I've flown Ugly Sticks from .049 size to this one I'm now flying. All flew quit good and love their handling qualities in the air and on landing.
Soft Landing Always,
Bobby of Maui
I have a Big Stick .60~.90 ARF model sold by Tower Hobbies. It has a 66.5 wingspan with 1000 sq/inches of wing. My model came out to 9 pounds 2 oz. ready to fly. I mounted the rudder servo and elevator servo aft near the rudder on each side and installed a good tail wheel assembly that Tower sells. The model has a huge vertical presentation and a pure blast to fly. I added rudder to elevator wires on each side of the model, for this area really does shake quite a bit with a two stroke gas engine running. I also beefed up the tail area just forward of the rudder...to the elevator. This is a weak area of the Big Stick and most Ugly Stick type models that can be bought as an ARF today. I've had several folks tell me they had the same weakness in their Ugly Sticks.
I have seen this Birdi Stick fly many years ago...and you may want to put a 30~38cc engine in that model. It will fly just fine with a 20cc engine, but it will not have the vertical performance of a lighter model. Make sure your CG is good and have fun. I've been flying Ugly Sticks for 40 years and just love this airframe. I've flown Ugly Sticks from .049 size to this one I'm now flying. All flew quit good and love their handling qualities in the air and on landing.
Soft Landing Always,
Bobby of Maui
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Personally I think the 20cc engine will work well in most 60 size planes with 70" wings. Mine is a Tiger 60 bashed and posted a few back. The DLE does vibrate pretty good and I did use the Du-Bro isolation mount and beefed up the whole plane for the engine. This little engine really runs great and idles at 1600RPM and has nice transition to 8000RPM with a Zinger 16-8 prop. I only have 3 14OZ. tanks through it.
Only problem I ran into with my set up is I have a spits style muffler and a inverted carb along with the mount and it's impossible to adjust carb with it all together. Really not much I can do except to get it well tuned before getting it together and go fly it.
I forgot to mention I have the #4 ignition module and do not have the delay some talk about.
Only problem I ran into with my set up is I have a spits style muffler and a inverted carb along with the mount and it's impossible to adjust carb with it all together. Really not much I can do except to get it well tuned before getting it together and go fly it.
I forgot to mention I have the #4 ignition module and do not have the delay some talk about.
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Hay Leroy,
I read where you installed a DuBro isolation mount on your 20cc engine. I had one on my Ugly Stick and I'm not sure if it helped with all the vibration, my model had. I've been told that its best to mount the engine directly onto the fire wall. Either standoffs or the fiber filled engine mounts that came with the engine. I'll tell you what's good about the DuBro isolation mounts...when you crash they break off, and will help save the engine. And just what happened to me...this past week end.
I was doing a 200 ft. loop and was ten feet short. It was a great good crash and parts heading in all directions-every where...for I was beginning to put on power when she hit the asphalt. The muffler broke off tanking the screw down part of the cylinder, broke the prop (M.A. "S" type 16x8 two blade), and both DuBro mounts, exactly where the aft screws held the engine onto the mounts. I question every thing now with the engine...but surprising to me...I was less then 3/10,000 run out on the prop shaft... : ). I ordered a new cylinder, gasket kit and muffler. I had a spare full ignition kit and carb already, so as soon as my parts come in...I believe this engine will fly again. I do not trust the old carburetor, or any of the crashed electronic ignition. So these parts will be bagged and kept as test equipment for breaking in my 20cc engines. All the radio gear went into the trash for nothing worked and all the servo's were toast. Even the Ultra-double charging on/off switch broke and the batteries were found 30 feet from the main pile of parts, with the connections torn off.
The run out is good on this engine...and the bearings are smooth.
This model had nearly 165 flights in seven months...and it was a pure blast to fly this model. I'm going to keep to the 20~26cc size models for now, and there are a lot of models in this power range available today.
Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui
I read where you installed a DuBro isolation mount on your 20cc engine. I had one on my Ugly Stick and I'm not sure if it helped with all the vibration, my model had. I've been told that its best to mount the engine directly onto the fire wall. Either standoffs or the fiber filled engine mounts that came with the engine. I'll tell you what's good about the DuBro isolation mounts...when you crash they break off, and will help save the engine. And just what happened to me...this past week end.
I was doing a 200 ft. loop and was ten feet short. It was a great good crash and parts heading in all directions-every where...for I was beginning to put on power when she hit the asphalt. The muffler broke off tanking the screw down part of the cylinder, broke the prop (M.A. "S" type 16x8 two blade), and both DuBro mounts, exactly where the aft screws held the engine onto the mounts. I question every thing now with the engine...but surprising to me...I was less then 3/10,000 run out on the prop shaft... : ). I ordered a new cylinder, gasket kit and muffler. I had a spare full ignition kit and carb already, so as soon as my parts come in...I believe this engine will fly again. I do not trust the old carburetor, or any of the crashed electronic ignition. So these parts will be bagged and kept as test equipment for breaking in my 20cc engines. All the radio gear went into the trash for nothing worked and all the servo's were toast. Even the Ultra-double charging on/off switch broke and the batteries were found 30 feet from the main pile of parts, with the connections torn off.
The run out is good on this engine...and the bearings are smooth.
This model had nearly 165 flights in seven months...and it was a pure blast to fly this model. I'm going to keep to the 20~26cc size models for now, and there are a lot of models in this power range available today.
Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui
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Hi Bobby sorry about your nose in the dirt and good to here the mount saved some stuff. There is a lot of opinions about soft mounts for engines, problem is most don't know the first thing about what that mount does or any soft mount for that matter.
I think the best example would be to remove them from your car engine and transmission and put some steel bars in place of them and see how many miles you get before it craps it's self for one reason or another and it will. Now that's not to say you can't hard mount it, just be prepared for some kind of failure whether it be structural or electrical. All engines are not created equal and what applies to one may not apply to another, same goes for air frames. It's what ever turns you on or I should say flies your plane.'I haven't had any issues with my engine but the Walbro replacement for the DLE 20cc # is WT793 should you decide to change it out.
Better luck the second time around Bobby. engine likes to "shake-rattle and roll. oh, and run".
I think the best example would be to remove them from your car engine and transmission and put some steel bars in place of them and see how many miles you get before it craps it's self for one reason or another and it will. Now that's not to say you can't hard mount it, just be prepared for some kind of failure whether it be structural or electrical. All engines are not created equal and what applies to one may not apply to another, same goes for air frames. It's what ever turns you on or I should say flies your plane.'I haven't had any issues with my engine but the Walbro replacement for the DLE 20cc # is WT793 should you decide to change it out.
Better luck the second time around Bobby. engine likes to "shake-rattle and roll. oh, and run".
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hummm, with all the talk about 20cc engines in 60 size planes I wonder if my Zenoah 20 will be to heavy for my older 4-Star 60 (71" span), it was crashed once but now it has been rebuilt so I know it's a bit tuffer than stock,, I have rebuilt it to look like an old time racer
Jim
Jim
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I have this exact plane with a DLE 20 installed. Flies it very well......plenty of power! You do have to get somewhat inventive and do your own re-engineering to get things to fit.......such as, putting the fuel tank back into the radio compartment hidden under the cockpit flooring, and what I did was also set up my own servo tray so that I could route the throttle and choke pushrods straight to the engine.........works great.