Im having trouble with the ignition on my mvvs ifs 26cc. When i connect the battery,all i get is a constant flashing as soon as its turned on. ive tried 2s lipo and an 8.4v nicad but still the same. any ideas ???

Steady rapid flashing is supposed to indicate low battery.
Have you tried bypassing any wiring / switches?
Also - do you have the battery test jumper in place?

Hi,

please write me which kind of ignition you have.

Jan

Right guys, thanks for the replys. I bought the engine ,ignition and plane off a friend before he emigrated. Im not sure which ignitionit is but im using the same gear he used which worked ok for him. I think its the icu-l . Is there any way of telling which it is? Im not sure about the battery test jumper. where would it be and should it be on or not? As you can tell, this is my first petrol engine so i aprreciate the help.</p>

Take a picture if you can to help better ID the ignition.

The 26cc (later versions) come with the ICU-L ignition.
The battery test is a jumper that is plugged into the jumper block on the side.
Try downloading the manual from www.mvvs.cz - you will see from there which ignition you have

Hi, the battery jumper isnt there would that matter?

It means the battery test is disabled

This link will tell you all about the ICU-L
http://www.mvvs.cz/docMVVS/iculen.pdf

Hi, at last ive sorted it. I set this model up about a year ago and was given some duff advice from a model shop it seems. when i started to check connections i came across a 6v regulator after the ignition switch which i was told i needed if i was using a lipo to power the ignition. I took it out and hey presto it works. I have another question, do i need a seperate servo for the choke?

If you can't reach it, by all means use a choke servo. If for no other reason, if you should have a throttle servo problem, you have a way to kill the motor.

Thanks i think ill put one on. ive been reading about the opto kill switch,are these a must if only for safety reasons?

Hi, Crunch. I have not used an opto kill switch, ever, but the new planes, I put together, will have IBEC. I have a Futaba radio, that until now, I had set up the throttle cut, to shut the engine down, and when that wouldn't kill the engine, I have been using the choke. We used to have people driving their airplanes back into the pits, to their boxes. I believe that is a disaster waiting to happen. We request/require the planes be shut down out on the field, then manually moved to the pits. We have had 2 instances where the planes ended up in the pits, one happened to be mine, the other, the transmitter was shut down before the engine and reciever, both were roaming the pits looking for some meat! Luckly neither found any! LOL!!

I agree with you there Greatone. I hate people driving planes back to the pitts or even back to them when they a stood on the flight line. Its an accident waiting to happen. So how dose the i bec work?

I wish I could tell you, as I have just put it a new plane. It's controlled by a channel on the transmitter. Looks like a sweet deal though, no extra battery/switch to mount. I can maybe tell you better next week as I am about to leave sunny AZ, heading back to MI. When I get there, I'll be able to try it. I do like the thought of being able to turn off the ignition from the transmitter. If you look just above the fuel dot, the green light is the led for the ignition.

captaincrunch111,
Two thing's too think about. First, sound's like your voltage regulator was installed wrong. Should be before the ignition. If your going to use a battery with higher volt's than the ignition is rated for, it will fry quickly. Most ignitions are rated for 6v, a 6v battery fully charged will put out aroung 7.2v. Use the regulator.
Second, An electronic shut off for the engine is a good idea, if anything should go wrong with the throttle servo, linkage etc, you can kill the engine and dead stick land. Yes some say you can use the choke, I personally don't like loading the engine up that way. Plus if anything went out under full throttle, the choke probably would'nt kill it. An opto kill just adds a little electronic protection from itself, the ignition and\ or rf noise.
I've never heard of an I-BEC, we can't eliminate the ignition battery, I don't think.
Just my two cent's. Enjoy.

The IBEC allows the use of one battery to power the ignition and radio system. There is isolation between the two built in but not sure how that works. I've been using the RCATS switch (essentially a relay) that is controlled by a transmitter switch. Works well, relatively inexpensive and one model can be used with either a magneto or electronic ignition. Been using these switches for years with no problems. They provide isolation and are less complex then the opto isolation units.

I too use a RCATS switch on my gassers as an ignition kill and have had excellent service from them. One disadvantage is that the small led indicator is housed in the body of the switch and is seldom visible from outside the model. I have been trying to see if another additional led light that can be housed in the side of the fuse for easier visibility can be incorporated in it's circuit but no luck so far.

Karol