Need a replacement carb for my Brisson 3.2 . Any ideas where I can
find one?

Stick2K

In less than 45 seconds, I found 2 sources online for the original carb.

http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_from=R4...All-Categories

http://tewarehouse.com/WT-76-1

That engine commonly used the Walbro WT-76 / 76A but any number of carbs could easily be adapted. How about the carb for a DLE-55 for example? You would have to convert it to internal pulse port but that would take less than 5 minutes to do .... and they have a reasonable price. Also, the Brisson carbs had linkages that were bolted to the stock carb linkage so there is nothing special about the carbs in that area. You have many very workable choices.

I have bought these carbs from the E..Y source above and they are perfect as advertised. Excellent source of parts and carbs.

Thanks for the info, WT465A is the number on the carb.

Stick2K

Over the years several different carbs were used on that engine. I have (3) Brisson engines and a Taurus 52 and all use the WT-76 / 76A / 76B and I couldn't ask for a better performing carb. For $14.95, you can't go wrong!

You might want to look at this thread.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10...m.htm#10172440

Edit: It looks like the cheap WT-76 in the top link has expired and is no longer listed. The bottom link source does show the WT-465 at $30 something which is an OK price. Here is a link to a WT-465A source.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Walbro-Carbureto...item483f1c37e8

The 465 is what was substituted after the carbs started to be made in Mexico. Read the small number inside the venturi. That's the size in 64ths. Get another carb of similar size and strap in on.

Using either one of these rebuild kits will usually solve your problem. Dan.
K20-WAT
D10-WAT

My Brison 3.2 has a WT-76.

The WT-201A is pretty much like the WT-76. The WT-201 was used on the BME-50 and DA-50

Ralph says he thinks the WT-76 is a little better carb.

One of the good things about the 76 series is its range of adjustability. Much greater than a 201 for example.

Maybe this one can be repaired. The problem is it goes lean when the
throttle is almost closed and then it shuts off when open a little.
I've replace all gaskets in the input and the pump. It seems like
it has a air leak near idle. Top end runs fine.

Stick2K

Has the throttle return spring been removed from the throttle shaft?

No, it's just disengaded.

Check your WT-76 for wear around the throttle shaft pivot area. it could be leaking there?

Is this a throttle couple spark advance engine ot a snchro spark version?

The reason I ask is that the TCA version has more mechanism up front to control the timing. It might put more wear on thr thr throttle shaft?

1 I am sure you have adjusted the low speed needle valve but just in case you haven't turn it in the rich direction.
2 The nylon timing ring and the Dubro swivel links on the pushrods from the carb do wear out. Replace them if they are loose.
3 If the high speed timing is set at 28 degrees BTDC then the low speed is around 3 to 5 degrees, I think. The experts who are on this thread should be able to give you a more exact number.
4 That block plastic carb mount does crack on occasion. Look for raw fuel around it at the end of a flight or oil after the gas evaporates off.
5 Another guy was having all sorts of problems with his engine that was caused by a spark plug gap the was way to small or large. Take a look at it.
Dan.

I have the snchro spark version with the wt465A carb. If it has a leak around the throttle shaft
there is no way to repair it and have to replace the carb.

Stick2K

Don't want to be rude here but if you just quit talking about the carb problem and if you feel it is bad, order one and you'll have it in your hands by the middle of next week! A very quick inspection will determine whether the throttle plate has damaged the carb body.

TR, check post #4
The carb lists for USD 45 to 50, not USD 14.00
Anyway, thanks for your input on improved needle range over the 201, which often stays lean unless idle is set rich.

Some of the WT201s on the DA50s wouldn't run rich enough, the WT76 eliminates that problem...

If the carb was 14.95 I would have ordered one before, however the throttle plate has not worn the carb body!
Just though I ask to see if anyone else may have had this problem and new of a fix other than replacing the carb.
If this thread doen't agree with your way of thinking , please don't post!

Stick2K

Thanks Ralf, This went into my engine dBase: (disregard prop and exhaust, rpm=venturi). with carbs they mean squat)
<table bgcolor="#ffffff" cellspacing="0" border="1"><font face="Arial" color="#000000"><caption>motorpower-metingen</caption></font><thead><tr><th bordercolor="#000000" bgcolor="#c0c0c0"><font face="Arial" color="#000000" style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt">prop</font></th><th bordercolor="#000000" bgcolor="#c0c0c0"><font face="Arial" color="#000000" style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt">rpm</font></th><th bordercolor="#000000" bgcolor="#c0c0c0"><font face="Arial" color="#000000" style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt">HP</font></th><th bordercolor="#000000" bgcolor="#c0c0c0"><font face="Arial" color="#000000" style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt">fuel</font></th><th bordercolor="#000000" bgcolor="#c0c0c0"><font face="Arial" color="#000000" style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt">exhaust</font></th><th bordercolor="#000000" bgcolor="#c0c0c0"><font face="Arial" color="#000000" style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt">plug</font></th><th bordercolor="#000000" bgcolor="#c0c0c0"><font face="Arial" color="#000000" style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt">run</font></th><th bordercolor="#000000" bgcolor="#c0c0c0"><font face="Arial" color="#000000" style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt">remark</font></th><th bordercolor="#000000" bgcolor="#c0c0c0"><font face="Arial" color="#000000" style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt">date</font></th></tr></thead><tr valign="top"><td bordercolor="#c0c0c0"><font face="Arial" color="#000000" style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt">WT201</font></td><td align="right" bordercolor="#c0c0c0"><font face="Arial" color="#000000" style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt">13</font></td><td align="right" bordercolor="#c0c0c0"><font face="Arial" color="#000000" style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt">0</font></td><td bordercolor="#c0c0c0"><font face="Arial" color="#000000" style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt">
</font></td><td bordercolor="#c0c0c0"><font face="Arial" color="#000000" style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt">yes</font></td><td bordercolor="#c0c0c0"><font face="Arial" color="#000000" style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt">
</font></td><td align="right" bordercolor="#c0c0c0"><font face="Arial" color="#000000" style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt">3</font></td><td bordercolor="#c0c0c0"><font face="Arial" color="#000000" style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt">mvvs43cc, DA. tends too lean at main jet 0.8mm. WT76!!</font></td><td bordercolor="#c0c0c0"><font face="Arial" color="#000000" style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt">
</font></td></tr><tfoot></tfoot></table>

Which is one of the reasons the earlier DA 50's could only be tuned to work correctly at one end of the operational range. Too small a carb generates that problem.

If one has an older Brison and they suspect carb problems every cure has already been noted in this thread. How one goes about checking things is another story. Most instantly blame the carb. others will blame an ignition.

So pull the carb and the insulator block it's mounted on. Get some 220 wet or dry paper and put it on a dead flat surface. Now run the insulator block, both sides now, don't skimp, back and forth over the paper to generate and assure a flat surface. Replace the gaskets with new ones. Use a little, meaning very little, sealant on both sides of it before re-installing. Don't be scared, buy a rebuild kit and do the job that probably needs to be done. Make sure you blow everything clear before you put it back together. Of course you did make a few notes about how it came apart, planning ahead for the assembly process, right? Those somewhat astute would be able to look at the old gaskets and see the impressions made on them by their associated component... Likely the welch fitting doesn't need to come out so don't get antsy over that.

If in the end you have to buy a new carb, so what? Do you really think these things are supposed to last forever? Are you that naive? If the carb costs more than you want to pay you have a choice. Buy one and fly or don't buy one and don't fly. That's easy. Just don't complain to everyone about how you think the parts are over priced. Nobody asked you to get involved in the hobby. You did that all on your own and accepted the consequences when you did so.

Some of you folks make every thing so difficult.

WOW Pat! THAT took off some of the steam pressure!

Sir, your original post requested a source for a replacement carb. You didn't ask for assistance about rebuilding your carb or how to tell if it was bad, etc. You only asked for a replacement source.

I responded with several sources for both the WT-76 which is the most common carb on your engine and later when you came back with a different carb number I responded with sources for that carb. Among the links posted were sources for both carbs at under $15.00 USD. There were other sources also posted at a higher price.

The first Eb-y source I quoted for the WT-76 removed the $14.95 listing shortly after my post .... I have no control over that but I assure you it was there there when I made my first post. The link in post #5 is still current (as this is being written) for the other carb at under $15.

Sorry I ever got involved with this post. I'm outa here on this one as I don't think you really know what you want and don't appreciate info when it is given to you.

After a closer look at carb it was found to have worn the carb body
close to the plate shaft. Ordering new carb today, thanks to all
for helpful info and time.

Stick2K

Only the carb body can wear is if the return spring is removed...Leave it on the shaft...