DLE 20 or DLE30?
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DLE 20 or DLE30?
Hi,
I have a H9 Funtana 125 and was originally going to order a DLE20 for the same. But now I am also going to get a AW Yak 90-120QB soon. I was considering completely skipping the DLE20. I would then install a 120ax I already have on the Funtana and go directly to the DLE30 on the Yak. I was wondering if the Yak requires a 30 or will a 20 do for it
Ameyam
I have a H9 Funtana 125 and was originally going to order a DLE20 for the same. But now I am also going to get a AW Yak 90-120QB soon. I was considering completely skipping the DLE20. I would then install a 120ax I already have on the Funtana and go directly to the DLE30 on the Yak. I was wondering if the Yak requires a 30 or will a 20 do for it
Ameyam
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RE: DLE 20 or DLE30?
ORIGINAL: krayzc-RCU
8.5 lbs tops is a good place for the 20 for the average flyer taste does vary.......
8.5 lbs tops is a good place for the 20 for the average flyer taste does vary.......
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RE: DLE 20 or DLE30?
Actually two things- what engine accessories will I require to install a DLE30 on the AW Yak and does the airframe have airframe strength and ground clearence to handle that engine?
Ameyam
Ameyam
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RE: DLE 20 or DLE30?
Regarding the 30 -
Ground clearance not a problem for the 18-8 I was running. My airframe shook 4 bulkhead to side glue joints loose after the second flight (yes, prop carefully balanced, single bolt adapter used). I ended up installing 1/8" triangle stock everywhere I could. The engine is too long to fit under the cowl. You'll need to shorten the engine box or set it up with the carb inside it. The engine sits low in the radial cowl, the stock J-tek wrap around hangs out the bottom, but can be custom ordered so the muffler header comes straight back rather than the usual angled down setup. That will keep the muffler can inside the cowl. Also, my Yak ended up at about 11.5 lbs., putting it into a heads up type flying category. It's a complete rocket ship, but doesn't fly like the Funtana AT ALL. The Funtana builds up closer to 10.5 lbs, and has more wing area - making it a much better flying airframe IMHO. I never shook a glue joint apart with my Funtana either - despite MUCH abuse.
I would go with the 20 given the chance/inclination to build another Yak.
Ground clearance not a problem for the 18-8 I was running. My airframe shook 4 bulkhead to side glue joints loose after the second flight (yes, prop carefully balanced, single bolt adapter used). I ended up installing 1/8" triangle stock everywhere I could. The engine is too long to fit under the cowl. You'll need to shorten the engine box or set it up with the carb inside it. The engine sits low in the radial cowl, the stock J-tek wrap around hangs out the bottom, but can be custom ordered so the muffler header comes straight back rather than the usual angled down setup. That will keep the muffler can inside the cowl. Also, my Yak ended up at about 11.5 lbs., putting it into a heads up type flying category. It's a complete rocket ship, but doesn't fly like the Funtana AT ALL. The Funtana builds up closer to 10.5 lbs, and has more wing area - making it a much better flying airframe IMHO. I never shook a glue joint apart with my Funtana either - despite MUCH abuse.
I would go with the 20 given the chance/inclination to build another Yak.