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NGH 38CC 4 stroke

Old 11-25-2014, 06:26 PM
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The only one I know of is available from www.justengines.co.uk They are a U.K based outfit, and the prices can be a bit sharpish, but they do provide good service.
There may be others, I don't know of them.

Last edited by ALFIEV; 11-25-2014 at 06:30 PM.
Old 11-26-2014, 09:42 AM
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Unfortunately the JE site does not indicate which of their exhaust systems is used with the GF38, therefore difficult to know if the entire assembly will fit in the Tigy cowl. Talking about the issue today at work so will attempt to do some basic CAD work to build a simple model of the engine and cowl. Last time I tried to use a CAD tool found it very difficult so currently draw up all my plans in powerpoint. That tool works a treat for large or small Depron builds along when used with an A0 plotter.
Old 11-26-2014, 10:29 AM
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So, don't know if this will help, or if it will just be moral support, but there is a NGH GF 38 powered Flair Tigermoth video on youtube. If you haven't already seen it, it might give you some ideas.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L6qjIwG3by0

Good luck!

Alf
Old 11-27-2014, 10:02 AM
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Yes I have seen that video along with identical versions on other sites. Unfortunately it does not show the engine installation.
Old 11-29-2014, 11:33 AM
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Check this engine out it was designed by a engineer who worked for NGH. It's gone into production.
It sells in Australia for $408 US which isn't bad if it runs really good.
The Cams are out in the open so you won't have any problem easily adjusting and oiling them.
The carb runs off the side which is better for some planes. The cam train is belt driven instead of rod driven which
should last much longer and run smoother. Uses a CM6 plug. Engine is around 3 pounds.

https://www.hobbytech.com.au/product...gine-airplane/
https://www.facebook.com/A38OHC
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Last edited by Basil Yousif; 11-29-2014 at 12:00 PM.
Old 11-29-2014, 02:06 PM
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Hmmmnnn... Looks a bit hardcase (unusual/strange) with the carburettor just hanging out there in the breeze. Hope the inlet manifold is strong enough to support it!
Would be interesting to see running video!
Old 11-29-2014, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by ALFIEV
Hmmmnnn... Looks a bit hardcase (unusual/strange) with the carburettor just hanging out there in the breeze. Hope the inlet manifold is strong enough to support it!
Would be interesting to see running video!
This forum has a few vids etc http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2207532 .
I'm still a little unsure about it though...
Old 11-29-2014, 09:48 PM
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Same engine.
http://www.justengines.unseen.org/ac...html#aA38FSOHC
Old 11-30-2014, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by cmsrp
This forum has a few vids etc http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2207532 .
I'm still a little unsure about it though...
Interesting thread and some informative video thanks. Think I'll stick with my NGH GF 38 for now. It is actually running very well for me.
Old 12-02-2014, 12:29 AM
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It's cheaper from the Australian outfit. The brits overcharge for the engine. Anyone game to try out this engine. Might be a good option or a lemon!

Here's what the Ausies had to say after they tried the engine:

Well folks I've witnessed this engine in action today and so far I'm impressed with what I saw.

With an 18x11 prop (all that was available at the time) it spun it up quite happily to about 6200-6300rpm. Ran smoothly and sounded great. Pretty quite too.

Next up is a 19x8 which should be a bit better and more suited to the plane it's in.

Will be interesting to see what the longevity is like but it should be OK we think.

Last edited by Basil Yousif; 12-02-2014 at 12:33 AM.
Old 12-03-2014, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by ALFIEV
Interesting thread and some informative video thanks. Think I'll stick with my NGH GF 38 for now. It is actually running very well for me.
Sounds like you had 2nd thoughts about keeping it. Does it have vibration issues at certain RPM speeds? Thanks
Old 12-03-2014, 04:22 PM
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Initially I was concerned about vibrations and difficulty in starting. Once I had worked out that the factory had not set up the mixtures correctly and I bought a decent electric starter starting improved heaps. Vibrations seemed to ease with more running, and then once I fitted it to my ESM Corsair the vibrations didn't seem to be anywhere as bad. I did expect a few more revs out of an 18 x 8 propellor, but its proven to be sufficient for the airframe.
What I can say is that it starts well now, has never quit on me yet, and sounds great on the Corsair. Haven't flown it that much, but looking forward to flying it more.
Old 12-30-2014, 04:00 PM
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Hi,

I'm looking for the screw size for the valve cover. I lost one of my screws. Is the thread size 3-56?
Old 12-31-2014, 08:08 AM
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Im pretty sure it is a metric bolt....got my engine/plane stashed away for now, so I cant measure it....
Old 12-31-2014, 10:17 AM
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I got lucky and found my missing screw on the floor with a magnet. I am finishing up breaking in my engine today. It is going on a 1/4 scale Fleet Biplane. So far it is running great out of the box.
Old 01-01-2015, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by nippaero
Hi,

I'm looking for the screw size for the valve cover. I lost one of my screws. Is the thread size 3-56?
It's M2,5x8 according to the sparepartlist.

regards
Peer
Old 01-09-2015, 04:38 PM
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I am finishing up the build on my 1/4 scale Fleet biplane. I ran the NGH on the plane today and it ran pretty good. Need to tweet the needles a little bit to get the transition smooth.
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Old 01-11-2015, 09:44 PM
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Hi,
got my NGH 38 last week,and out of the box fuonding it almost like a seized engine...opened to see inside,the piston -sleeve was very smooth,the rought were in the camshaft gear-cams...remouting it lost the timing dot(i.e. forgot to watch it's position before to remove) after hours of research(of course nothing on the one page "instruction manual" ... ) Well now all solved,dot pointing downward 6 0' clock at TDC.
Spent almost 4 hours to hand start the engine,with no results ,it were so hard and rought that barely passed TDC under flips.(No electric starter available of course...) so at home,desperate,opened the valve cover,lubed well the camshaft and placed the hand drill on the shaft to make it turn a bit...
After this, in just half an hour hof hand flips it started and ran nice.
Now I've done almost 3 hours, on the bench test,and seems to still need to break in ( after 1 hour at 25\1 mix now run 35\1) .I'm running on aerostar wood 18x8 and got steady 7000 rpm with some 7100 and for istants 7200...tuning the best I can the needles.(but the engine is not steady at full...so I think it needs more break in beeing born so tight...)

Well this is the story,now some questions for you :
1- the engine,now , hand start in quite few 10-20 flips (I think a heavier prop like a master airscrew 19x8 will help, but ordered it) ,compared to my dle 20 ra that out of the box started EVER at the first flip,and after two months of fly is clean ,dry not a single drop of oil or mess around the engine or near firewall,This NGH 38 is really a little dirty...spit fuel from carb at all rpm. and after the test day is a little oily all around it...(all screws checked and blue locktited) a little disappointed for this.
2- I'm thinking to buy an Hobby king Yak 54 185 cm wingspan (is for the dle 30) how it will fly with this engine...? It will add,compared to dle 30 about 400-500 grams on the nose ,to balance with 10-150 gr. on the tail. The plane with dle at 4.800 gr. seems to perform good 3D acrobatics, I just want it to fly sport or standard F3a like (I came fro this in the past) .
3- I stopped to fly models in '85 after 15 years of scratch building and F3A flying ,to fly hang gliders,and now after 30 years rejoined to this sport...really worried about the so light and fragile structures of these Chinese arf3D planes and afraid about put this shaking engine on such frames...

Please I know this is a long post, with doubts ,questions and maybe lack of English(I'm from Italy), but I'll really appreciate all the answers from you that have more time and experience on this damn good sound engine( all my doubts and questions will have one simple solution...DLE 30 ... )
Old 01-12-2015, 01:08 AM
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The problem with these gas 4 strokes is that they make very little vacume pulse to operate the carb fuel pump when you hand flip the prop.
The crank case on the NGH is vented 2 places, and it is impossible for it to make the required vacume pulse.

So when you try to start a brand new engine, you have to make sure that the fuel is in the fule line all the way up to the carb.
If not, remove the fuel line at the carb, and blow into the tank vent line to push fuel into the fule line. Connect the fuel line to the carb while fuel is dripping out to make sure air does not get in there.
Then prime the engine by dripping some fuel directly into the carb. Then hand crank it. It should fire a few times, then quit. Do this a few times until the carb has filled itself with fuel, and the engine will run from there.

If it is very difficult to start then engine when run in, then try richen the low seepd needle. its probably closed a little too much.
The engine runs best with the idle needle leaned out.....but makes it very difficult to start......so you have to find a compromise setting.

Last edited by SJN; 01-12-2015 at 01:11 AM.
Old 01-12-2015, 05:11 AM
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[QUOTE=valerio.canestrelli;11959574]Hi,
got my NGH 38 last week,and out of the box fuonding it almost like a seized engine...opened to see inside,the piston -sleeve was very smooth,the rought were in the camshaft gear-cams...remouting it lost the timing dot(i.e. forgot to watch it's position before to remove) after hours of research(of course nothing on the one page "instruction manual" ... ) Well now all solved,dot pointing downward 6 0' clock at TDC.
Spent almost 4 hours to hand start the engine,with no results ,it were so hard and rought that barely passed TDC under flips.(No electric starter available of course...) so at home,desperate,opened the valve cover,lubed well the camshaft and placed the hand drill on the shaft to make it turn a bit...
After this, in just half an hour hof hand flips it started and ran nice.
Now I've done almost 3 hours, on the bench test,and seems to still need to break in ( after 1 hour at 25\1 mix now run 35\1) .I'm running on aerostar wood 18x8 and got steady 7000 rpm with some 7100 and for istants 7200...tuning the best I can the needles.(but the engine is not steady at full...so I think it needs more break in beeing born so tight...)

Well this is the story,now some questions for you :
1- the engine,now , hand start in quite few 10-20 flips (I think a heavier prop like a master airscrew 19x8 will help, but ordered it) ,compared to my dle 20 ra that out of the box started EVER at the first flip,and after two months of fly is clean ,dry not a single drop of oil or mess around the engine or near firewall,This NGH 38 is really a little dirty...spit fuel from carb at all rpm. and after the test day is a little oily all around it...(all screws checked and blue locktited) a little disappointed for this.
2- I'm thinking to buy an Hobby king Yak 54 185 cm wingspan (is for the dle 30) how it will fly with this engine...? It will add,compared to dle 30 about 400-500 grams on the nose ,to balance with 10-150 gr. on the tail. The plane with dle at 4.800 gr. seems to perform good 3D acrobatics, I just want it to fly sport or standard F3a like (I came fro this in the past) .
3- I stopped to fly models in '85 after 15 years of scratch building and F3A flying ,to fly hang gliders,and now after 30 years rejoined to this sport...really worried about the so light and fragile structures of these Chinese arf3D planes and afraid about put this shaking engine on such frames...

Please I know this is a long post, with doubts ,questions and maybe lack of English(I'm from Italy), but I'll really appreciate all the answers from you that have more time and experience on this damn good sound engine( all my doubts and questions will have one simple solution...DLE 30 ... )[/QUOTE


your dirty and gas out of the carb sounds like valve timing to me.... try moving the cam one tooth one way or the other. I would say so the intake opens later so retard it
Old 01-12-2015, 10:36 AM
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I also had problems starting my new engine and it was very dirty when running. This was because the factory had not set the needles to the correct position, they were way way way too rich (3+ turns open). I doubt the factory had ever run this engine! Having such a rich mixture at idle meant it couldn't idle and the choke was fairly much useless. After re-setting the needles she started better, choke was effective, idle better, and ran clean. I still start using an electric starter, but that's personal preference. I use an Align starter running off a 2.2 Mah 3-cell LiPo and she starts easily!!!
Old 01-12-2015, 12:47 PM
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I'm new to gas 4 strokes...but have a question: if the valve timing is wrong even by one teeth,the engine still is capable of about 7100 rpm on 18x8 prop? I tried to move the timing dot(now pointing down 6 o'clock) ,one teeth towart the prop,as suggested on this forum...and had half the compression travel(means the valve open until the piston were halfway between TDC and Down dead centre...) so don't tried at all to start it.
Old 01-12-2015, 12:50 PM
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sounds like you were right on the money then before did you try turning it the other way? one tooth.

I think at this point I would do walt Alfiev recomends and lean the mixture out
Old 01-12-2015, 12:52 PM
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now had 4 hours, every time seems to improve, and it really sucks fuel from the tank easily if close the venturi with my thumb. So the starting problem isn't from the lack of fuel in the carb,infact ,even if stop the engine ign. off, then it is hard to restart,and is warm,with the carb full...
Old 01-12-2015, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by drummaker
sounds like you were right on the money then before did you try turning it the other way? one tooth.

I think at this point I would do walt Alfiev recomends and lean the mixture out
Please this is a bit too english for me,try to explain again because I'm not sure to understand what you said...

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