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Old 03-08-2013 | 05:55 PM
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Default Q35?

I just got a used Q35 and had it running tonight. Sounded good and was very easy to operate. I am just starting a 1/4 scale Fokker DR1 and it should end up around 15-16 lbs. Those that have experience with this engine, do you have thoughts on this combo? It is going to fit well, As I want to mount it upright so I can add dummy cylinders under the engine for scale appearance.
I was running an 18-6 APC prop, but would probably go to a Xoar for flying. Not sure if this is the right sized prop or not. It sounded good though. I need to get a muffler as well and was thinking of a Bennett and cutting the stingers down and running flexible pipes down out the bottom of the fuselage. Never routed an exhaust this way, but I am hoping to conceal the engine mostly.
Old 03-09-2013 | 04:44 AM
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Default RE: Q35?

I have run the Q35 with 18x8 Menz-S props, and a very restrictive muffler. I got about 6000 rpm, with a very nice flying plane of 18lbs weight.
6" pitch was much talk, and no walk. 10" pitch would do, but torque was a bit more and needed plane corrections.

Old 03-09-2013 | 08:53 AM
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Default RE: Q35?

I would actually prefer to have more diameter than pitch. Maybe a 19-6" ? The WW1 models lend themselves to more diameter as the top speed is limited anyway. I will have to experiment with props I suppose. I just wanna make sure this engine will be suitable before I commit to it. I will be building the front end of the model around it. I originally wanted a G38, but it does not fit as well.
I think a DLE 35 rear exhaust would work well to, but I really want a mag engine and do not want to buy another engine either.
Old 03-09-2013 | 12:22 PM
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Default RE: Q35?

The 6" pitch looses most of it's thrust at about take-off speed. That is why I suggested an 8" minimum for low rpm gassers on larger props.
Old 03-09-2013 | 05:00 PM
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Default RE: Q35?


ORIGINAL: vertical grimmace

I would actually prefer to have more diameter than pitch. Maybe a 19-6'' ? The WW1 models lend themselves to more diameter as the top speed is limited anyway. I will have to experiment with props I suppose. I just wanna make sure this engine will be suitable before I commit to it. I will be building the front end of the model around it. I originally wanted a G38, but it does not fit as well.
I think a DLE 35 rear exhaust would work well to, but I really want a mag engine and do not want to buy another engine either.
The Quadra will work the best as you will need to add extra nose weight anyway. The DLE is a very light weight engine and not a great match for a WWI warbird. An 81 or 19 inch pitch prop will be just fine for that Quadra. The Xoar Simitar WWI props a pretty efficient props, just alittle more $$$, and they sure look good too.
Old 03-09-2013 | 06:30 PM
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Default RE: Q35?

That makes sense on the low pitch PE. I do have an 18-10 WW1 xoar prop. I guess one more thing I need to do is cut that xtra added cooling fin on the top of the cylinder. Not sure what that was for, but it is in the way of my mounting dimensions. Thanks for the info guys, gonna move forward with this as my powerplant. It should work fine in this plane. I do not need a ton of power. Just ease of use and reliability.
Old 03-09-2013 | 07:34 PM
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Default RE: Q35?

A Q35 should fly a 16lb 1/4 DR1 great. You sure the Quadra/muffler will fit upright? You will probably have to set the firewall back a couple of inches? Cooling? just those two holes and a little around prop driver for air in? Prop, 19/6 or 8 or 20/6. Scale would be 24", too big for 35. I have a G26 mag with 18x6 prop in mine and have about 3lbs lead if I remember correctly. Good luck with your project, have you thought about color yet?
Old 03-09-2013 | 08:30 PM
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Well, this is my second 1/4 scale tripe. I really like the Ritter von Tutschek paint scheme. It is the scheme I used the first go around. This was one of my favorite airplanes ever, so now I get to build the replacement. Got the bottom wing done today.
I will address the cooling and exhaust issues. I plan to box the engine back from the firewall. I did this in my previous tripe as well.

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Old 03-10-2013 | 06:32 AM
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Default RE: Q35?

That is a great looking scheme, I don't think I have seen it before.
Old 03-10-2013 | 08:34 AM
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Default RE: Q35?

I have another question about the Q35. It has a carb without a choke. I am wondering if Walbro has one that would replace it that does have a choke? I really want to have a choke, as I may not be able to reach inside to do it with my finger.
Old 03-10-2013 | 08:54 AM
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Default RE: Q35?

I fitted a steel wire with T-extension under one of the the diaphragm cover screws. The T could push on the diaphragm through the central cover hole. When pushed down, the carb pump pressure will go directly to the jets, and squirts a generous amount of fuel in the carb bore for choking, or engine stopping.
Be sure it will not touch the diaphragm boss when at rest. Leave at least 1mm space so the diaphragm is free to do what it has to do.
Old 03-10-2013 | 04:23 PM
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Default RE: Q35?

It seems that the carb used on this engine in not made anymore and Walbro does not make a replacement. The guy from Bennett built told me to be careful with it. I w ill fabricate something. Thanks for the tips.
Old 03-10-2013 | 04:41 PM
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Default RE: Q35?

Will you have to make any cuts for the carb to fit or will the carb be tucked inside?  Instead of trying to fab something  for a choke , you could always drill a small hole inline with the carb so you can squeeze or inject some fuel directly into the carb/intake  via a can or plunger with a long tip to make it easy to start.
Old 03-10-2013 | 08:43 PM
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Default RE: Q35?

That is a good idea actually. If you look at scale pics of the Fokker DR1, there were tubes exiting each side of the fuselage behind the firewall. These were the air intakes for the carb. I have used these before as guide rods to the needles on my carb. My engine will be boxed back from the firewall and may have half the carb in and half out. Not exactly sure yet where it will land exactly. A tube running to the carb for priming might be the easiest solution though.
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Old 03-11-2013 | 02:06 PM
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Default RE: Q35?

Would be a lot easier than fabing something only to have it break down the road.
A flyer had a Q42 in a just finished Laser 200 this fall. The engine had around 4 flights on it and the engine/plane had around 5 flights since finished. The Q42 had a carb with the choke on it. He was flying it yesterday and coming down the runway the engine stopped suddenly and the plane was too high to land so he tried to bring it around to come back , It started to stall over the trees and almost made it but tipped and came down through the trees busting it up. He took the engine off and took it apart at the field and found the side of the piston had a large gash from the ring to the top and the liner was gouged up bad too around the exhaust port. He found a small machine screw all beat up and that is what caused the damage. Couldn't figure where it came from until looking at the carb and seeing the choke plate off of the lever. The bolt worked out of the choke plate , got sucked in and almost got pushed out the exhaust but the edge of the piston caught it and game over.
Old 03-11-2013 | 03:26 PM
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Default RE: Q35?


ORIGINAL: flyinwalenda

Would be a lot easier than fabing something only to have it break down the road.
A flyer had a Q42 in a just finished Laser 200 this fall. The engine had around 4 flights on it and the engine/plane had around 5 flights since finished. The Q42 had a carb with the choke on it. He was flying it yesterday and coming down the runway the engine stopped suddenly and the plane was too high to land so he tried to bring it around to come back , It started to stall over the trees and almost made it but tipped and came down through the trees busting it up. He took the engine off and took it apart at the field and found the side of the piston had a large gash from the ring to the top and the liner was gouged up bad too around the exhaust port. He found a small machine screw all beat up and that is what caused the damage. Couldn't figure where it came from until looking at the carb and seeing the choke plate off of the lever. The bolt worked out of the choke plate , got sucked in and almost got pushed out the exhaust but the edge of the piston caught it and game over.
That is a shame. I usually take my choke plates off and solder the hole so it will draw fuel better. Found this to be very important with my DLE engines. I guess those need to be thread locked. Terrible way to ruin a piston cylinder, or worse.

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