w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

You guys need to document the degrees BTDC of your ignition timing

FlyandMighty

Well, I do know that if the magnet is centered on the Left cylinder (looking from the front) the cylinders are @ TDC. the sensor appears to be about 45 degrees before that. Can that be right? where are the engine know it alls when you need them!.....oops here they come.....

JamesPool

My Feedback: (3)

I reached out to my trusted source at Horizon. Apparently adjusting the timing within the slots of the hall effect sensor is "ok." I've adjusted my about 0.15 inches clockwise (looking at the prop) and I can go a little more.

FlyandMighty

James

Thanks for the additional info. I've moved mine around a little but only noticed a difference in the Idle RPM. I'll have to try it again. Did you have to adjust the mixture after the timing.
I'm at just under 200 rpm rich. 5670 RPM Bambula (laminated prop 22x10). It still begs the question..Why are we having to do this? shouldn't the engines be right from the factory? AM i naive? is the answer yes??

JamesPool

My Feedback: (3)

Yes. It did idle faster for sure. And, I did have to readjust my "h" needle once i was done. I leaned it about 1/8 turn.

Pete Bergstrom

There are tradeoff's with everything. The manual explains that you can gain a higher top end but at the expense of ease of starting - which might now require a starter. It is not a matter of 'right or wrong' but rather a matter of giving the customer a good experience out of the box.

Pete

FlyandMighty

James

That explains why i did not see much of an increase, but saw it at idle. Ieft the hi needle where it was. cool. I'll try again and report back.

There is a guy on youtube who runs this engine with all kinds of props and I notice he gets monster RPM numbers. I wonder if he moved his around too?

FlyandMighty

Pete

That's a good point. not a matter of right or wrong which is not what I meant to say. though I wish it were that simple.

HOT COALS

I BOUGHT MY SAITO FG 57 A FEW MONTHS BACK. HAVEN'T BROK HER IN YET. STILL BUILDING MY 120 " STINSON 108 . THANK YOU ALL FOR THE INFO. THIS WILL BE VERY HELPFUL TO ME.

Rudolph Hart

Mine is broken in and fitted to the aircraft.Once run in properly it gave factory figures on their benchmark prop and starts first flick so i left it alone.Now running a 23x10 menz prop.

FlyandMighty

Well moving the advance did very little for me. I will leave it in the stock position and get some more run time. Besides the 5 break in tanks I only have 5 flights on it. It is running great with quick throttle response and smooth idle. starts on one or 2 flips. Needs very little prime to get going. I am using a laminated 22x10 bambula prop which probably is more of a load than the Xoar. I get 5800 with it set 100 rpm rich the Xoar was 6000. so now on to better cooling.

cheers

FlyandMighty

Cooling improved. I found I have been running too rich. fouling plugs. ran the engine pretty much at peak. all problems solved. easy hand start. little or no hesitation. 6000 rpm on 22x10 bambula. 10 min fligths no dead stick no plug foul. When the manual says run slightly rich they mean very, very very slightly. even 100 rpm was too rich with cowl on...

JamesPool

My Feedback: (3)

Glad to hear you've had some success. I flew this weekend and my results were mixed. My first flight was outstanding. Motor ran like a top and I could not have been happier. My next flight about 30 minutes later - not so much. I ran up the engine on the ground and everything was fine -- good transition between low and high throttle, both slow and fast, but as i was taking off and accelerating, the engine would falloff dramatically about mid throttle and then pick up again. Once in the air, it did the same thing. After that, I put got her down safely.

When I learn more, I'll post.

James

FlyandMighty

James

Maybe check your mix with the cowl on. that's what worked for me. then no hesitation. I guess with the higher oil content it might be easy to foul or degrade the plugs or ignition function

kwik

Oh yes, baffling is very important. I just bought a TF 190 and will put a FG-57 in it. It will be baffled.

COL J

Thanks for all of the info and tips. And thanks for starting thread for it. A lot of interaction and this always good.

COL J

I have the updated version fg57TS. The major difference is a huge heat hs been placed on the bottom of the crankcase behind the breather nipple. You can see it on Horizon Hobby. Maybe that is why they did and hopefully it help transfer some of the heat away. The phenolic block between the engine and the carb is also supposed to cut down on engine body heat transfer. I will tell you after I put in on the run-in stand.

COL J

Also, has anyone tried the TBM 20X12 variable pitch three blade. It adjusts 10, 12, or 14 pittch?

FlyandMighty

Kwik

I have baffled mine up as much as I can and still get the cowl on and off. I would be willing to trade pics of my set up for pics of yours.
no more overheating but the running is a bit erratic. Even though I am not set up rich I am still blackening plugs and sometimes it won't hand start.
I have to pull the plugs and clean them a bit and them it starts and runs o.k. Are you running the plugs with the factory gap? (.7mm to .8mm)
This engine is not so easy to run

kwik

The problem is my Corsair is crashed, and working on a new one now, plus a TF 190. Baffling remains to be done on both.

When I get to it, I will try to remember a picture.

I dont, know, maybe it is the type of oil?

Rudolph Hart

Sorry to hear about the corsair mate looked like a nice flier on the vids you posted.

Flyandmighty i'm no expert as this is my first gas engine but so far i've had no problems apart from the choke rod threaded end coming loose.I set the plug gaps on mine at .589(from memory)as it's supposed to give you a fatter spark and i'm running klotz 200 oil because thats what i use in my glow fuel mixes.I pulled the plugs last week and both are a light brown even colour.Needles are at the factory setting.

Correction..the plugs originally gapped at .589 and i set them at .71
Flyandmighty try gently closing the lsn and then wind it out to 6 and one third turns,you should be good.

FlyandMighty

OF

thanks for the response. I have the gap @ .7mm. The engine at factory setting is clearly too rich. Throttle response is poor until I lean the HS to peak and lean up the LN until the throttle response is quick and clean, no bogging down or quitting. 6 1/3 turns out would be massively rich but I'll try it. I've got something wrong. Engine has already been back to Horizon hobby for check out and they say it's good.
i don't know if they can be trusted though because the engine came back missing screws and the hall sensor was loose....
I'll keep trying

FlyandMighty

Maybe I am mixing my fuel wrong? I use Evolution oil as recommended. I mix 6.4oz of oil into one us gallon of 93 octane gasoline. Anything wrong with that?

mikes68charger

My Feedback: (34)

Hey guys I'm thinking of getting this motor for my TopFlite corsair.

My my question is it really worth the $950 for this motor vs $500 for a nitro Modle with a $250 CH convershion?

kwik

6.4 Ounce = 0.1892 Liter

1 US Gallon = 3.785 Liter

0.1892 / 3.785 = 0.049 which is 4.9% ( That should be a small lesson to the die-hard imperial unit's guys......)

So the percentage is okay. A difference from me is I use 98 Octane, but it probably has no relevance to your problems regarding starting.

If you have start problems; (Make sure someone stands in front of the stabs, holding it....)

Did you try the following;

Give maybe at least 50% throttle and Choke it (I do it using my finger) , and flip it. Maybe as much as 75% throttle.

I couldnt start it by hand until I did just that. The more richer I set the L-needle, the less throttle I need on startup to make it fire.

A clear difference from a standard Walbro which doesnt have a piston-valve with that needle in the middle. The needle in the middle, I suspect,
can stop completely fuel from entering the venturi when flipping. And giving more throttle lifts the needle, allowing more fuel to enter.

But this is just an assumption from my side. And you know how it is with assumptions.....Well, it is a bit more than an assumption;
I have experimented on it, and actually observed it, so....

The problem I have now, which suddenly started occuring, is that it hesitates a couple of strokes when I roll the plane.

It became better when I riched the L-needle a bit, but didnt completely dissapear.

Nothing happens when I do a loop ( !!! ) Figure that one out, and I'll give Stockholm a call so you can get the Nobel Peace Prize !!!!