Rudolph Hart

I had the speakers turned right up

CRG

My Feedback: (3)

That part has been superseded by a new diaphragm kit, the item number in the US will be SAIG36171. This will suit the FG-30B, FG-36, FG-40, FG-57TS and FG-84R3D. I'll advise ETA when it becomes known.

Craig

Pete S-RCU

I have my FG-57TS in a BUSA Ercoupe., runs great, love the sound.
I installed a TM1000 telemetry system to monitor the temp of the engine.
When I let it sit after a flight the spinner gets really hot as the heat soaks up to it.
I installed the temp probe on the right cyl (long manifold pipe) in the groove in the head next to the intake valve.
With the cowl off, it runs about 287F at full throttle.
With the cowl on, it runs at 230F at full throttle.
Runs hotter at lower speeds, less cooling maybe?
Anyone know what temps I should expect?
It runs so good, I'm thinking these numbers are OK.

slembones

My Feedback: (1)

Does anybody know which way the groove in the gasket goes between the carb and the intake manifold. It can go 2 ways. One way exposes the hole for the pulse to the manifold the other way sends the pulse through a groove in the carb befor it gets to the hole. I should have paid closer attention during disassembly.

tdevince

I know this is an old thread, but the problem discussed earlier in this thread about the engine cutting out isn't solved with needle valves or oil mixtures It's a air venting issue with the metering chamber of the carb. That's why it happens when you roll to the right. Anyway, I've fixed my 61TS by making an adapter plate so I can rotate the carb 90 degrees with the metering chamber down. Fixed the problem and the engine runs great now.

Here's a link to describe my change:

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...ostcount=10431

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

TDC


30 BTDC


Sullivan fuel bulb holding at TDC
I noted that some of you were interested in the timing setting on your gas engine, here is how I set the C&H timing on Saitos, the same can be used to check on your gas engines. I down loaded a degree wheel and glued it to .125" plywood, then cut it out. I drilled a hole through a glow plug so I can hold the engine, (a Saito 150 in this case) at TDC. A piece of control rod stuck between the two center cooling fins serves as a pointer. 30 degrees BTDC is the recommendation for glow fuel, yours would be 28 degrees for gasoline. In case you're interested a C&H unit with Syncho-Spark works perfectly on my FG 11. If I didn't splain it well enough, ffire some questions..

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Show us a picture of this vent, please.

tdevince

I don't have pics of my adapter, but here are some pics of the stock assembly and notes of what I did. I will get pics of my setup when I get a chance to remove the engine from the plane.



Engine Side View


Engine Top View

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

You accomplished nothing by rotating the carb, that vent simply allows the diaphragm to flex as it regulates fuel flow. As long as that little hole is in the clear it will do it's job. Pictured is a Cline regulator which duplicates the regulator half of a Walbo carb. It doesn't matter how you mount it.

tdevince

You misunderstand the problem and the solution. It was not that the atmospheric vent (the little hole you refer to) needed to be in a different position. The problem was needing to vent air (or fuel vapor) from inside the metering chamber so that you were full of liquid (fuel) inside the chamber, not a mix of liquid and gas. It was the air inside the metering chamber that caused the engine to sputter when the plane rolled and allowed the air to vent out of the chamber into the venturi. Sort of llike ingesting air bubbles in the fuel line. Rotating the carb, puts the metering chamber on the bottom so that air won't accumulate in the chamber.

Read Q13 on Saito's FAQ page for a Japanese-English explanation of the problem and their fix: "http://www.saito-mfg.com/english/faqgas.html" (��)�֓����쏊FAQ

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Thanks, I see it now.

shorte

I am getting the Saito Fg61TS. I am putting it on a giant XL stick with a 22x10 prop.
I am having long standoffs like 31/2 inches long so I can bolt it on the firewall. Why they position the carburetor this way is beyond me.
I don't want my carb to be in the fuselage and I can't do that anyway because it has a nose gear that is right behind the firewall.
any one run the motor without the ventury trumpet. I could save some room it I left that off.
I will use 20 to 1 redline and break it in.
Is there still a problem with the carburetor, engine will cough, sputter, metering chamber. Is it something to worry about.
I got rid of my Fg60 r3 because of all the mods and problems they have.
So I bought this one might last longer but it is so long it is ridiculous. I could have put the carb in a better spot.

tdevince

shorte

Great Here is my own modified Stick with my own fuselage.
https://www.flyinggiants.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2762328&postcount=50

My motor is going to stick out another 3.5 inches I was thinking on removing the velocity stack and keep it a half in from the firewall.
I am getting a new one second hand for 800 bucks.
I see they stuck a saito 100 on this stick . I think that is over kill.
I see on the saito 100 the carb is still on the side like this one. I wonder why they didnt put that one on the bottom of the newly designed 100.

What do you do about all the spitting of the fuel that will be in the fuse?
What I could do is drill a hole in the firewall just for the velocity
stack and could get a 3/4 inch more back .
It would be real close to the wire of the front gear.

Right now my stand offs could be close to 4 inches long because I would like the velocity stack to be a 1/2 in away from the firewall so I can have room for air and prime it with my finger.
That would be 9 1/2 inches to the prop hub. WOW! and that would be exactly a 4 inch stand off.

tdevince

It's even worse on the 100 because you can't make a simple adapter plate to rotate the carb and put the metering chamber on the bottom.
I put a small armature about an inch from the velocity stack that holds a small paper towel to catch all the fuel spitting. Easy access to the armature allows changing the paper towel after every day of flying to keep the fuse clean.

I use an electric starter and never have to worry about choking or priming the engine. It starts pretty easy. With it that far forward, I imagine you'll need to add some weight to the tail.

I got this engine to put into a Jerry Bates SBD Dauntless that I'm building. I got the Stik just to break in the engine before putting it in the Dauntless. I'm glad I did, because I learned some particulars about the engine before I put it in a new airframe (such as the carb mod.). But I also like the Stick/FG61TS combination so much, I bought a second engine to use after I move this one to my Dauntless. Here is a link to my mods for the FG61TS. It shows the adapter plate and the fuel spitting armature I made for the engine.

SBD Dauntless Engine Installation

shorte

I bought FG61TS from Horizon.
I have 2 oils
Redline
Cool Power.
Cool power doesn't have a mix ratio on it so how do I know what to mix.
Is redline a good oil for break in in this 4 cycle?

tdevince

marksp

My Feedback: (9)

shorte

I was looking at the FG57 V1......and the carburetor is pointing down. I like this because it reduces the length of the motor quite a bit. So I looked at the parts for the inlet manifold and left and right intake manifold. all 3 parts are 140 bucks.looks like all that would need to be done is drill and tap 2 screw holes for the manifold inlet to do this. Tap 2 holes in the mount.
Then the caberatoe would point down like the fg57 and the fg100.
This would make a better installation and you wouldn't need to cut a big hole it the firewall . It may save a 1 1/2 inch to 2 inches of the length.
Remember I am putting this on a stick with a nose gear so I can't just cut a hole in the firewall.
It looks like the inlet pipes would clear the standoffs.
Does anyone have both motors to see if it would work.
I took a chance and ordered the parts. If it doesn't fit oh well I lost more than this in this hobby.
the standoffs are even higher on the fg61 then the 57 so looks like it might clear the pipes.

This would be a very easy mod
I received my motor today and it looks like there will be plenty of room for the inlet pipes to clear the standoffs.Why saito didn't do it this way I do not know.

https://www.horizonhobby.com/inlet-m...-bg-saig57t164
https://www.horizonhobby.com/intake-...A-bg-saig57t69
https://www.horizonhobby.com/intake-...A-bg-saig57t70

shorte

Well I got the parts in and I see they will not work The pips are smaller in diameter. and the rear mount is a hair thicker. It almost fit. Sending them back for refund.
I have custom made 4 inch mounts made. I can mount it right on the firewall without cutting a big hole.

Rudolph Hart

I'm a klotz KL200 fan.

shorte

Anyone run one without the velocity stack. I can save a inch it I don't use velocity stack. On my zenoah it ran just as good without them . Velocity stack only help a little with spitting. I guess I will find out when I run it.
That 1 inch farther out makes a big difference.
with a 3 inch standoff without velocity stack I can prime it still with my finger.
4 inch standoff with velocity stack is a little to far out.
3 inch standoffs ballance better.