Blair K.

Hi Mark, what engine are you talking about?

Your modified FG33R3 or another engine? I was under the impression your Ray English engine was getting plenty of use in your Cub.

My FG 33R3 used to take a minute to come down to a stable idle, in truth it isnt a problem for most people that fly on a grass field as it takes more than 400 rpm increase to overcome the friction from the grass.

Cheers Blair

Blair K.

What engine were you chasing that particular oil for??

If its a Saito gas radial Morgans Coolpower blue works as well as any an i believe you can get it in the States.

cheers Bk

hpergm

Mark - I think this is a sign of LEAN. RPM jumps up @ idle because you quickly choke air; if rich, the engine would bog down fast. When Lean, the temporary air choking actually improves the burn if the fuel inside is towards lean (less air and less fuel = more stoichiometric), thus giving you temporarily higher rpm. Makes sense?

How far out is your Low and High?
I found a happy medium @ 7 out (Low) and >5 out (High).

hpergm

Mike, no need to sweat over the oil - we use Castrol simply because it is what's available over here at a reasonable quality/price ratio. You can use any good quality synthetic as long as it is not Ester-based. Ester -based premium oils (like Motul 800 and BelRay H1R) are more for injected systems - when premixed, the ester is known to affect o-rings and seals over time (in tank, carb).

marksp

My Feedback: (9)

FG-33R3 indeed. It was running fantastic I until zeroed (closed) the low speed to sort out my settings. After doing so, it would run/fly great for 7-8 minutes, then it would lean out, sometimes and dead stick. I checked everything (tank, fuel lines, clunk, etc.) for the cause before sorting it out. Essentially, the FG-33R3 includes a rubber O-ring on the low speed needle which prevents needle moving. When you close the needle, the O-ring slips off shoulder of the needle head which is what unknowingly happened in my case. After sorting this out, I'm now re-tuning using the low speed needle approach vs. the high speed (manual) approach.

The FG-33R3 manual settings are 8 (low) and 1 1/4 - 1 1/2 (high). I'm at 7 1/2 (low) and 1 1/4 (high) on 15:1 oil, RCXCL plugs. I'm pulling about 90% of stated max RPM and my temps are within 5% cylinder to cylinder. Starts easy by hand, and seems to run reliably.

I think I'm done tuning - time to start flying!

Cheers

Alex70

Bad day, two months waiting for spare gaskets from RCJapan for my FG60 R3 and today have reached but without the gaskets that I need for cylinders and camshaft... a set of washers instead...

Blair K.

I'd like to suggest another method, I've used yellow commercial envelopes as gaskets on so many engines now that they are proven.

A scalpel, scissors and a normal nail held in a pair of vice grips, heat that nail red hot with cheap gas torch and it will follow the inside case profiles easily.

We made a full set of gaskets in 35 minutes. Another option is permatex paint on form in place gasket. Works great on gas but not glow as its alcohol affected.

Hope this helps, BK

Alex70

Thanks Blair, I will try to make the gaskets for myself ...yellow commercial envelopes...? can you show it please?

I have already submitted a claim to RC Japan anyway...

Blair K.

Alex I guess they could be described as a C4 kraft envelope, any paper thicker than standard printing paper will do. Head down to a news agent or art supplies store and most of the coloured card sheets available are in various thicknesses, just take your gasket and match the thickness.

cheers BK

Alex70

OK, thanks a lot, Blair.

cheers, Alex.

SrTelemaster150

The only gasket where thickness will be critical is the cam housing. The thickness will affect gear lash. Too thin & the gears will bind. Too thick & there will be to much slack.

For the cylinders, you could just use a thin film of silicone. A thinner gasket on the cylinder bases will affect compression slightly but the difference would have to approach .5mm to make much difference. The glow engines don't use cylinder base gaskets.

hpergm

Dear Alex, this sucks - but is very strange. I actually recommended RCJ to you and had absolutely no problem... The cylinder Gaskets were IN the set.

Alex70

Hola, I received several weeks ago a mail from RCJ that inform me that the order is with delay because some ítems are out of stock... I prefer that they don´t send me anything, I believe also that the big ring gasket not belong to my engine, are different that your gasket in size... I sent it a claim to RJC yesterday.

Alex70

Hi hpergm, this is the answer from RCJ to my issue:

"Thank you for your mail. We are a bit confused. The part you received is the same as the part number on your order. Please specify the part number you have an issue with and the part you required."

Wich is is the part number of your gasket set for FG60 R3 engine?

Thanks and regards.

hpergm

Holla Alex. The full gasket set is No.32, with the cylinder gaskets being 32-8. But, there's a catch - here's my correspondence with RCJ:

"Dear Mrs. Hope,

I am looking for a spare gasket set for my FG-60 R3 - part number is 32. I am particularly interested in 32-8 which is the base cylinder gaskets (somehow the parts list under 32 does not include that under the "32" set."


"Dear Mr. Hector,"Thank you for your patience. I am not sure I understand your question exactly, but you can either order Part 32 or you can order 32-8.
"Which do you need? Both are available."




"Dear Mrs. Hope,
Thanks for your reply.
To clarify: I am just trying to confirm that sub-part 32-8 is included in the full 32 set... Why? As you see, in the parts list of the engine, part 32 comprises -1, -2, -3, -4, -5, and -6 but -8 is not mentioned. This may be a typo error.
I would thus like to order: a full 32 set plus 3 x 32-8 gaskets."

"Dear Mr. Hector,
Thank you for your mail. I understand your inquiry. Yes, 32-8 is included in the Engine Gasket Set. It should be the error it is not writing on the list.
We will be adding it to the website for you to complete the order through the shopping cart system.
Thank you for your patience."

Alex70

Hola Hector,

Now I am a bit confused, in RCJ web the item number for FG60 R3 gaskets set is SA-60R3-32, there is not any subparts list under this item, see the picture that RJC show in his web for this item, seem the same of your set gaskets, is not the same set that I received from RCJ.



Please, can you post a picture of your set bag showing the item number?

Saludos.

hpergm

Alex,

Our part number is the same.

My reference in the post above was always to the engine instructions (see attached). Therein, the gasket set (Part -32) is listed out to contain certain sub parts which you could also get separately; namely -1, -2, -3, -4, -5 and -6. It is clear that -8 is (strangely) not included in that set and you would need to order it separately. Now, RCJ inquired about this to Saito following my notice and apparently Saito sent them a couple of -32 sets for me with the -8 included. It seems that Saito did not correct their mistake in subsequent dispatches of the -32 set - they may need reminding of this ommission from RCJ once again...

Bottom line is you need to order the 32-8 separately or find a cylinder gasket from the 21cc gas single from a European store (this was reported to be identical).

Saludos.

Alex70

Hi Hector, understood. I received a answer from RCJ this morning:

"Thank you for your confirmation of this information. Please give us 1-2 days to process your request and inform you the next steps."

Thanks and regards, Alex.

miker49

My Feedback: (4)

thanks for all the info on the castrol oil.i am just going to stick with Stihl HP Ultra Premium synthetic at 20/1.have used this oil in zenoahs at 50/1 and all run great.soon as my DA 50 is broken in,i'll switch to it too.

Alex70

Hi Hector, this mail from RCJ that I received today looks good.

"Saito will send the parts which are not included. We expect to have them next week. Do you have another order to place soon and we can ship together?"

johnhi

I flew my FG60 yesterday for the first time, it certainty has plenty of power and is very similar in performance to a DLE 55. I'm running 15:1 mix. High speed needle is out 1.25 turns and Low speed is out 6.75 turns but it was still a bit rich on the low end so I will adjust this in the next few flights. I'm using a 23x8 Bela prop and got 6,200rpm

I used plenty of baffling in the cowl and put louvered vents behind each of the cylinders just to make sure everything stays cool.

slither

What are the specs on the plane? Post a video or two... looks great!

yoska

My Feedback: (5)

hello Gents
I just got my 450 Saito back from Ray, a wonderful person to work with. The engine has been converted to gas by C&H and then Ray massaged the rest. The carb was changed to the new F 82 carb after the internals were modified.After about 2 hours on the test bench it is happily turning a 23/8 prop at around 7400 rpm. oil is 20 to 1.
Cheers Joe..PS. Ray just finished my Saito 170 radial also with ignition but glow.

johnhi

Hi all, on my Saito FG 60-R3 I have a Keleo ring and I have attached the pressure feed from the ring to the tank and runing a 15:1 mix petrol to oil mix. I have a question about this as when I tune the engine in the ground it's fine but in the air it seems to get richer and loose power, do you think the pressure feed is therefore adding too much fuel to the carb during flight? Has anyone eles uesed the pressure feed from the exhaust to the tank?

my mixture settings are.
Low open to 6.25 turns
High open 1.25 turns

Any advice on weather to use the pressure from the Keleo exhaust or not would be helpful.

hpergm

John, would it be possible in your installation that airspeed creates too much suction/vacuum in the cowl (close baffle, many louvres)? Rich can also be a result of too less air - and it does not take much difference to spoil the mixture...

Is your carb trumpet passing through the firewall (i.e. sucking air through the fuz plenum)? If you have used longer stand-offs than those supplied by Saito, you may be suffering from an effect like this..