Over a year ago I bought a new SE 32 engine. It so happens that it was right here on RC Universe. Anyways, a friend of mine who has been modeling over 30 years, with at least 20 years in gas engines has been helping me.
We mounted the engine into my AT-6 Texan. Everything we tried would not make the damn thing start. The carb will NOT suck gas from the tank. Sent it back to the guy (rep) I bought it from. Over the phone he said that the thing starts and runs great. Sent it back to me. But as our season was ending, I didn't do anything with it till now.

You guessed it, won't suck gas! The top of the piston looks just like new!! Yeah, I'll bet he started it and it ran great!
It's got a Tilliston Carb on it (Wallbro design). Can anyone help me with this damn piece of crap????
It's the VERY LAST SE engine I will ever, EVER waste my money on!!! Save your money, buy anything but an SE!!!

Thanks, Ken McCormack

Have you checked the filter screen in the carb?

Oh yeah, we've checked that carb inside out, including the reeds, all passages, EVERYTHING!! But it will NOT suck gas from the tank, which is just on the other side of the firewall, slightly higher than the carb!

Thanks, Ken McCormack

If engine has compression, fuel inlet needle moves freely as well as the diaphram flaps, you reassembled carb properly, and you have no air leaks in fuel tank/lines, and carb is choked, it MUST draw fuel. I think you overlooked something.

Did you make sure that the passage that lets the crankcase pulses get to the carb pump are open and clear?
There is a passage to allow for the crankcase pulses to reach the pump diaphragm so it will move back and forth and pump. If that passage is blocked (eg putting the carb on the other way) then it won't pump. Some engines used a fitting and a short length of tubing to route the pulses to the engine too.

Some carb gaskets only have one pulse hole. If that's the case and its upside down it won't pump. Right-o. But without changing anything, and it won't run for guy A but it will run for guy B tells me it's got something to do with where the engine is being run (or attempted). A test stand with a known good fuel system is paramount to weeding out engine problems.

Is the tank vented?

The carb is most likely a Chinese copy of a Walbro with the Tillotson name cast in the pump cover?

There's been some established people respond to this thread.

Besides the carb not pumping, it has not been established by the owner, or his friend, that the engine itself will run?

If the engine has crankcase integrity, compression, and properly timed spark, it should at least run in a short spurt from a prime?

Not only should the carb pump fuel, the fuel must be regulated by the metering valve and diaphragm.
I check that the fuel line will, in fact, draw fuel by using my refueling pump?
I have the ability to check the operation of the metering valve - mainly, that it will hold pressure, and that it will release the pressure. You can do that with your refueling pump and by
listening to it.

Sometimes you need to prime the carb, take the cover (which has 4 screws) off and pull back the diaphram and slop some petrol in there, put it back together.

+1

The Chinese carbs are notorious for this.

We removed both high and low needles, blew through them, no blockage noted. I'm not sure how to determine that the diaphragm flaps. I believe that it takes such a low volume of air that it would be easy to damage the diaphragm if we just blew threw to it. Also, it is under a metal cover, so how can we determine that it's flapping? Thanks so much for taking the time to reply, it is really appreciated.
Ken McCormack

I am not sure if a specific passage was open, but we did make sure all the passages were open and no blockages. However, the rest of your reply is very interesting. i.e., there is a plastic nipple that takes air from the side of the carb to the opposite end from the diaphragm. Could that be the passage that your referring to? In a few minutes I will go out and bring the engine inside so I can get the product number off it, and I can share it with everyone. Maybe take a photo and upload it .Thanks a million for taking the time to reply.
Ken McCormack
I ment after the i.e., there is a plastic nipple that goes from the phenolic spacer (reed cover) to the opposite end of the diaphragm. How can I download three (3) photos of this carb/engine? I'm not very computer literate. Thanks, Ken McCormack

After looking at the picture on their website this engine DOES have this tubing. If it is not connected on your engine it will not work. A picture of your engine would help.
One sure way to tell if your flaps are flapping is to install new diaphrams. This will achieve two things. Either it will fix your problem or you will eliminate it as a problem.

So have you loosen the diaphragm cover, blew into the vent line until gasoline comes out the cover?

I forgot that trick, that's a good way to get the diaphram wet.
Motorhomer he is talking about the side with 4 screws.
I have had a few engines that just would not pump until they were moistened, that is mentioned in the sticky too!

of course if the pulse line isn't connected or loose or the fittings cracked it won't work either.

Kerwin50 and 3136, OK guys, I'll try that. Right now its raining out side, not supposed to stop for the next few days. If you've been watching the news, the western US is getting pelted with rain and snow, and right now I'm in western Arizona. Now if I could just figure out how to attach a photo(s) to my post!
Again, thanks so much for taking the time to help me out on this.
Ken McCormack

hope this helps

I've had to do this on a few engines. You can prime, and flip and flip till your arm falls off and still she wil not start. But by loosening the diaphram cover and pressuring the tank till fuel flows gets it running. I've even had engines set for a while and neeeded to do this.

I was just talking to my friend and he reminded me that we did try that last year (pushing fuel to the diaphragm with the hand crank pump). But I going over to his house and we are going to try everything you folks have mentioned. But everything fails to make this damn engine suck fuel (so far). Talk to you guys later.
Ken

Can you please post pictures of your set-up?

Kerwin50, photos of the engine are above, however I think your asking for photos of it installed on the plane. Well, my friend and I have now tried everything to get this thing started, it just will not suck fuel. Therefore this $200.00 something engine is now for sale, I'll take $80.00 for it and I will pay shipping. Only thing is the person that buys it must swear he has read this entire thread. If I get no takers, I'll just pitch it. But I want to thank everyone who has tried to help me with this THING.

Albert K. McCormack, Quartzsite, Arizona

One major thing I can think of that could cause this problem and is a simple fix is, the gasket or gaskets between the carburetor or reed valve and engine block could be sucking air. I also bought a Chinese engine, the first thing I did was to replace the carburetor, and put a Bowman ring in mine. The jury is still out on whether or not I replace the CDI.

When I bought a Bowman ring, Frank Bowman inserts a notice into his packages that tells you that the Reed valves on these Chinese engines are notorious for having mold flash left on them which prevents the Carburetor or engine block side from sealing. You might give it a check before you throw in the towel. Good luck

Thanks oldbassard, but I've had it with SE Engines. I will not spend one more second on one. They could offer me a twin cyc, opposed 20 million cc, FREE, and I would tell them where they could put their engine. (Where the sun never shines!!)

Thanks, McCormack or just plane Mac

I'll give you $75.00 for it,have a friend that needs a cheap engine.
BCCHI

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