All Day Dan

My Feedback: (5)

The Walbro carburetors have that screw deformed (swaged?) so it is self locking on the shaft. It is deformed after it is installed. It sounds like the guys at DLE did not notice that when they designed their copy and are using a regular screw. If there is no lock washer on the screw, there is nothing retaining it in place but wishful thinking which does not last long. Definitely good for engine sales. Dan.

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

Dan, I can't speak for the OP's carb but in most cases the screws in the DLE clones are swaged like a normal Walbro. Maybe this one missed that step or wasn't swaged enough. Even when swaged, they can still get loose enough to allow the throttle plate to move around and cause problems.

I've also seen Walbro carbs where the screws were not swaged. Also seen them where they were swaged too much and in the process they broke the throttle shaft right where the screw goes in the weak part of the shaft. With luck, the screw didn't fall out but it could have very easily.

stevegauth30

I got ya. Makes sense. Anyway, thanks for all the help guys. You helped me find the problem, and my carb got a good cleaning in the process.

[email protected]

My Feedback: (29)

Look at the thread on DLE 20 replacement carb. Thread. To me a idle is just as important as full bore. The guys are talking about the ignitions the dle supply . I am replacing mine with Rcxel ignition pack

stevegauth30

Yeah. I'm not too impressed with the ign. I hate the way when you throttle down it hovers around 2500 to 3000 for like 15 or 20 seconds before really idling down. I'm not sure if it's just the dle's that do it or if the rcxel does it too.

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

That sounds more like a lean low end.

ShuttleAU

If it hangs at 2300 could be lean low end

Muttdog

I just got a new DLE20 from Aerobeez a few weeks ago. Even had to wait an extra couple days for them to come into stock so I assumed (yes I know that that means) that it would be the new ignition. Unfortunately it acts as all of you have said and it sure feels like the step is there. Now I have to take another look and see what version I have. So you all are saying that if it is the suspect ignition module then I should see a number 4 on it somewhere and it should be only rated for 6.0 volts? Hopefully I can see it on the top of the module and not the bottom as it is permanently mounted. I have been running a high idle for flight and click the trim back 4 clicks for landing. So far it has been pretty reliable that way but I have had deadsticks setting it too low.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Muttdog, you have it right. If you have a 6v module it has the single step ign. curve, which does it's thing at about 2500rpm. You're hoping yours is rated for 8.4v. as that's the newer one. Those have been supplied with new engines for about 2 years now, so my bet is that's what you have if purchased recently, and the "lean" condition mentioned already is the root of your evil.

Muttdog

OK thanks, I will give it a check later and see.

JRgraham

My Feedback: (1)

I had the same troubles. I have had the butterfly to the throttle come loose as well on the DLE carb, there was no locking washer on mine either. I have never been able to get the butterfly to seat in a position that felt like it was right.. always just a tiny tiny bit off center enough to allow a little air to get passed.. and lately the motor wont even idle down low enough to kill it on its own.

I have replaced my ignition once from Tower that gave me same results.. and a second one from Valley View, that actually made a big difference in its running much smoother and consistent. But that stupid DLE carb will only ever be just 'okay' in my opinion.. it works, but thats about it.. can not get anything fine out of it.

The other day out, warming it up I realized the bearings were seeming to get louder and louder.. So being the wife is learning to fly with this motor, and it is needing to be reliable and long lasting, I ordered up a new Walbro carb, some RC racing Bocca Bearings and a Bowman ring for it. Should be getting the parts all in this week and will report back on how she does when back together

Point is I guess,, your not crazy, these engines are made well, they just skimp a bit with good parts, like the cloned carb, and screwy ignition setup I think..

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

A lean low end can certainly contribute to or cause the problem but the 20 can hang like that even when adjusted correctly.

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

The #4 ignition wasn't a skimp on DLE's part, they were spec'd that way from Rcexl. That in my book is just a classic screw up on their part. I can't imagine why they chose to have that step in the ignition curve. At least they corrected the problem in later engines ... as they did with the bearing problems.

JRgraham

My Feedback: (1)

Yeah, I didn't really mean the ignition was a 'skimp' on parts, just including it in to the list of problematic issues really. The motor in itself is good as far as I have found with mine, over the last couple years. I think I have a close 10 gallons through mine, with all the little issues I have gone through. Pretty much the same common problems you read about from others.
I am expecting after I rebuild mine with the new parts to really come to life. at least, thats what I am hoping.

Indiomike

My Feedback: (5)

I agree with this statement. I have 3 DLE 20's. Two of them with the #4 modules at 6.0 volt rating and one new version at the 8.4 volt rating. I have the low needle on all three engines set as rich as possible (almost stumbles when revving up from idle) and yet all three engines still tend to hang at about the 2500 rpm area when coming off high throttle. Keeping the low end on the rich side helps lessen the hang but it's still there, just not as pronounced as when the low needle is more lean.

Ahicks has often mentioned that keeping the low end needle on the rich side helps minimize the hang and I fully agree with that. I used to lean my low end so that the engine would purr and sound really nice at idle but no more. I get better results with the richer low end and the number of deadsticks have decreased. They don't deadstick often but certainly less often than when the low needle was tuned a bit leaner. Plus, the amount of hang time is reduced. The high end needle is tuned in the normal manner, peaked and then backed off by 50 to 100 rpm.

[email protected]

My Feedback: (29)

Mine says 4.5 - 6 V. That one I will be replaced with a Rcxel. I will fill you in when I get the new ignition

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Suggest you check out the RCXP module. It's a direct replacement for any Rcexl (w/CM-6 boot), it's smaller, lighter, more robust internally......and at 45.00, it's cheaper.

rcextremepower.net/ignitions.html

stevegauth30

looks like a good deal. Have you personally ordered from them? I recently got burned online so I'm a bit skittish about trying companies I've never heard of. BTW, DONT EVER ORDER FROM WWW.FLYHOBBIES.COM unless you want to throw away hard earned cash, in which case, I'll take it. Lol.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Milton at rcextreme is good people. You can deal with him in good confidence.
Well established business, he's the US importer of Rcexl.....

stevegauth30

Thanks. I'll check them out.

[email protected]

My Feedback: (29)

I pulled my ignition out of the plane. It is dated 2011. I noted Vallyview Rc has one for the CM6 plug. It is a 8 volt ignition and saws "New"
Not 45 dollars but hey it's flying season !

[email protected]

My Feedback: (29)

I noted the DLE ignition was made by Rcxel For DLE :-) I'll post when I get it running