SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

cathurga,what is the air temp in U.A.E. ?

Timbers

My Feedback: (3)

Yes it would. Here is a picture of an 8 minute flight of mine from this weekend. I took off about 2 minutes after powering on. The temps all jump up to a consistant temperature throughout the flight.

I'm including another graph of a flight where the cylinder temps all came up close to each other.

Cylinder 1 is always the hottest. Will take another look at my baffling to see if theres anything I can do to direct more air over cylinder 1.

cathurga

Swords, at the moment it is topping out at around 35C in the mid day, but we fly in the mornings when it is a lot cooler. I would say up until now, the max temp while the observations were made was around 24C.

Those graphs are scary! In the first one, there is a 75F difference between them as an average, that is really unnerving....

marksp

My Feedback: (9)

So what's the difference between flight 1 & flight 2? Both with cowl on? Both with baffle?

Regarding the eLogger V4, does it log the data locally, or is there some additional recording device required? Does it support any real-time telemetry option?

Thanks

Timbers

My Feedback: (3)

Mark, no difference at all between my two flights. Didn't even touch the needles. They are my first couple flights on the engine though so maybe things wore in a little more, I have no idea. Both baffled though. Have not tried a flight with a wide open cowl yet....

The eLogger v4 is a little circuit board that I connect the temperature probes to, and it stays on board. I have it sitting inside the cowl and is powered by the ignition battery. Yes you can buy a transmitter module for it and a receiver station so you can transmit the temperatures back to your LCD panel on the ground. I haven't purchased that yet because I wasn't sure how deep I want to get into playing with temperatures. Engine runs awesome in the air so far.

...Timbers

cathurga

I would imagine the Eagletree set up is more accurate than the TM1000 from Spektrum, and of course you get the data in a graph, where I was taking 'notes' while a friend was flying.
I have used this same setup on my Extra with DLE 30 on it, and it was invaluable on getting the cowl outlets to the right size. Before I increased the cowl outlets, the DLE was running up as high as 160C, and as soon as I enlarged the holes (without baffle), the temps have been consistently under 150C. I didn't need to cut much out, and tuning was slight between flights so it seems the best ratio of air in/out, no matter how small the changes are, are critical to a consistent cooling ability.
That said, I still don't know the accuracy of the spectrum logger, so for all I know, the engine could be 'coooking' I just use it as a control and see if I can get temps down and consistent.

marksp

My Feedback: (9)

How many flights of data will it store? Are you bringing a laptop to fly field to retrieve data?

Cheers

Timbers

My Feedback: (3)

It stores 45 minutes worth of data. Every time you power it on and off it stores that as a session. So when you connect up to it, you can get specific down to one session.

Yes I bring my laptop and plug it into my plane after I fly to see how it did. I also bought the Eagletree small LCD panel and mounted it to the side of my plane behind the cowl so I can see in real time all of the cylinder temps by just bending down and looking at it before I take off.

Its great stuff, you can even name your outputs, so I have CL1 CL2 and CL3 on the LCD panel. I could even buy an RPM sensor so I could log RPM data in relation to temperature.

I used Arctic Silver thermal epoxy to epoxy the sensors down to the cylinder heads right on the big open space where the chrome intake tube goes into the cylinder. So I'd say its very accurate, as accurate as Eagletree states it should be which is +or- 5 degrees F.

marksp

My Feedback: (9)

Ordering up a couple of eLogger V4's for my FG-33R3 and FG-60R3. Wish they offered a (5) sensor version for my Moki! Looks like a great data acquisition tool!

Cheers

Timbers

My Feedback: (3)

Cool, maybe I should quit my job and become an Eagletree salesperson! I'm happy they offer a 3 sensor version, because Spectrum only does 1 sensor.

Do you have any videos of your Moki radial? I'd love to try out that kind of radial someday.

marksp

My Feedback: (9)

No videos, but here's a pic showing the relative size difference - FG-33R3 - FG-60R3 - Moki S250

helinut1

I have been watching and trying to figure out the problem of cylinders going out and here is some impute that i have found . I have a FG60R3 on my T-28 , cowel is perfect size and there are no baffles inside . You have to have a lot of exit for the air at a ratio of 2-1 you need a lot of exit area , this can be hard . Cut as many vent and exits as you can , make doors ext. to let air out . I have a lot of flights on mine and no temp problems and no leaning out of the motor. I do have the Walbro carb set up and Kelio exhaust . Another thing to add is Amsoil is a good oil but it leaves a hard black film on all engine parts , very hard to get off and ring are a big concern from getting stuck . i use a marine grade 2 stroke oil Pennzoil to be exact . The marine grade oils have the least ash and deposits they are held to a higher standard because of the water issues. As for the hydro locking I dont think this is what is happening . With the engine running it would be hard to think that a motor was hydro locking . There is one thing I found on the Kolm engine sight about there radials and multi cylinder engine I found interesting . They refer to it as hydro locking but its from the 2 stroke oil plugging up the small hole for the pulse pump. This is why they run a fuel pump on all there engines for constant fuel flow and security . These engines do throw out lots of crank case oil and I can see this might be something to consider.

deadstick79

I've been running my 40 to 50cc two-stroke gassers with an Amsoil mix of 100 to 1 and 93 octane gas since the mid 80s' with great performance!
I wonder if an Amsoil mix of 15 or 20 to 1 is just way too much even for this engine?
Dan

deadstick79

Hey All,
Got a problem! I went to start the engine when I realized that the Walbro carb was not getting the fuel! I opened the cover on the fuel inlet side and blew thru the inlet and could feel the air come out of the hole in the carb body but when I put the cover back on she's cut off again! I made sure the gasket was aligned so that is not the problem. I'm thinking maybe there should be two gaskets!
Anywho, I emailed Morris Mini motors with the same question since it's his conversion but I thought I'd just thro it out to y'all as well
Thanks,
Dan

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Inlet needle is probably stuck closed. Just one gasket on each side of the carb and one diaphragm on each side. When the inlet needle opens it lets fuel into the delivery side of the Carb. This needle can get stuck OR it's not properly adjusted such that it's not opening enough.
The Inlet needle is on the side opposite the side you blew on.

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

I installed a temperature monitor on cyl #1 and flew a couple of flights today. OAT was in the mid-60s. Highest temp recorded was 114 C. Observing the telemetry, it seemed to stay in the 105-110 range most of the time. My engine has a plywood baffle around the cylinders and the Keleo exhaust is wrapped in heat tape.

Timbers

My Feedback: (3)

Radford, could you post a picture of where you mounted your temp sensor on the cylinder? I'd like to see where you are at. You have considerably lower temps than me. I'm guessing a lot of it is due to sensor location. Thanks.

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

I don't have a pic and don't want to pull the cowl right now. I put the Futaba sensor between the cylinder fins at the top of the cylinder behind the exhaust. It seemed like it might be the hottest spot. I covered the sensor with RTV silicon do keep it in place.

The though also occurred to me that the sensor location might account for the low readings.

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

Here is a pic of the cylinder with a mark drawn where I mounted the sensor.

helinut1

Deadstick79 When I installed my carb set up the pulse for the fuel pump was built into the plastic spacer that Morris supplied . The gasket between the carb and spacer need to be aligned as this is how the carb gets its pulse signal from the motor. I still have to choke the motor to get fuel to carb . Has this motor run before?

deadstick79

Thanks~
No, I haven't run the engine!
Here is the reply I received from Morris:

Ok

I would recommend try to start it with electric starter first to see if you get fuel through


There is a groove in the heat spacer that groove need to be to the side where did logo walbro


That group is very important because that is the activation for the pump

ptdan

Hi Guys
Ive just maiden my Fw 190 D9 with the Saito fg60. Got one flight, and waslooking foreward to the second.. But when i tried to flip it, there was no compression on one of the cylinder.
This is my third Saito, so i thought it is the valves. But no, i have checked everything... Can not find the problem!!! Please help
Regards Dan

ForcesR

Dan, which cylinder has no compression? You may have already confirmed what I am going to ask. Did you remove the spark plug on the suspect cylinder to confirm if the piston can be seen moving up in down while rotating the engine? If the piston can be seen moving up and down, place your finger over the spark plug hole and rotate the engine, you should be able to feel compression as the piston moves to top dead center?

ptdan

Hi ForcesR
the piston is moving just fine, il try the test now. It is weird, and it is the 2 cylinder..

ptdan

Ive just tried the compression, there is nothing!!!!!! arghhhh