Saito FG-60R3
08-23-2018, 12:07 PM
#1801
My Feedback: (10)
With a 4minute warmup to get #1 up to 200f, and 10 minute flights, i recharge about 340mah per run for the ignition batt. It is a 2000mah 2s life.
I also run a pair of 1300mah 2s life batts with voltage regulators and schotkie diodes. They get about 170mah recharge each per flight.
this setup is in a 30% yak and i fly acrobatic and pattern style. It turns 6700rpm static.
I also run a pair of 1300mah 2s life batts with voltage regulators and schotkie diodes. They get about 170mah recharge each per flight.
this setup is in a 30% yak and i fly acrobatic and pattern style. It turns 6700rpm static.
08-23-2018, 12:39 PM
#1802
Join Date: May 2007
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No. I fly two or three flights on each charge cycle. I monitor the voltages after each flight and how many mah each battery takes on recharge. (also the cell balance). That gives me the confidence to fly three flights on these batteries/sizes.
08-23-2018, 06:54 PM
#1803
My Feedback: (6)
I woudn't trust the 1300 for more than one flight before I recharge.
https://www.buddyrc.com/high-quality...iver-pack.html
Try these priced right at
https://www.buddyrc.com/high-quality...iver-pack.html
Try these priced right at
08-24-2018, 05:33 AM
#1804
My Feedback: (48)
I agree in that 300-350ma per flight sounds about right and is similar to what I get. I use a single high quality 2500 A123 to power everything in both the P47/FG60 and my 3D planes. The 3D planes are way more power hungry than the P47 and still get 3-4 flights before even half the battery capacity is used.
08-24-2018, 04:36 PM
#1806
My Feedback: (48)
I like the LiFe or A123 batteries because they hold their charge, have high discharge capability, and no fear of charging the batteries while mounted in the plane. Best thing since sliced bread! We're having our Nat;l Model Aviation Day at the field tomorrow. Hope to get a few flights in on the ole piece of junk.... ($200 P47 with a $1000 engine!) LOL
08-28-2018, 07:41 PM
#1807
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: San Bernardino ,
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Can someone please tell me what temps are you are seeing with a cowling on? I've run the engine in without a cowl but I need to install it now and I would like to see what you guys are getting. I'm sure I'll have to baffle it but I'm not worried about that. Also how are you all reading temperature? I have a temp gun but with the cowl the access is limited, do you run it at wot then kill it and check? I'd imagine that trying to get a temp through a spinning prop would cause an error in the gun. Thanks in advance for the help.
08-29-2018, 08:25 AM
#1809
Can someone please tell me what temps are you are seeing with a cowling on? I've run the engine in without a cowl but I need to install it now and I would like to see what you guys are getting. I'm sure I'll have to baffle it but I'm not worried about that. Also how are you all reading temperature? I have a temp gun but with the cowl the access is limited, do you run it at wot then kill it and check? I'd imagine that trying to get a temp through a spinning prop would cause an error in the gun. Thanks in advance for the help.
The only way to get good inflight temp data is with a telemetry sensor of some sort.
09-11-2018, 06:10 PM
#1810
Join Date: Jul 2016
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Saito FG84R3
I cannot get my Saito to run right. Throttle is wide opened and I can only get up to high 3000rpm. Lean in and lean out and still it does not get to 6000 rpm. When I broke the engine on a bench it was running fine at high and low rpm. Initially, I thought it was because I had the fuel tube too long inside the motor box and the carb pump could not pull the gas. So I shortened the tube and it kinked so no fuel to the engine. So I decided to run the part of he fuel lines outside the box so it will not kink. Yet it still cannot reach optimal high rpm. What am I doing wrong? Please help. Thanks.
09-11-2018, 07:44 PM
#1813
As mentioned by 757jonp, you more than likely have the ignition plug wires connected incorrectly. Viewing the engine from the rear (pilots view) the firing order is 1, 3, 2, see illustration on page 2 of manual in attached PDF.
09-12-2018, 04:27 AM
#1814
Join Date: Jul 2016
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i think that maybe my issue. Let me recheck. I’ll post update of my findings.
09-18-2018, 09:12 AM
#1815
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Really didn't have time to read through this thread, huh? Try this.... use the "Search this Thread" function above and search on the term "temperature". That should give you about 50 posts that have discussion.
The only way to get good inflight temp data is with a telemetry sensor of some sort.
The only way to get good inflight temp data is with a telemetry sensor of some sort.
09-22-2018, 12:49 PM
#1816
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Walker,
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I've read this thread several times and decided to pull the trigger and get the Saito 60cc. Engine came in and got all my tools together unboxed and went to work at the kitchen table. First thing I checked was the cylinder screws. They were all tight. I removed one and it had red thread lock on the threads and a washer under the screw. New thread lock and reinstalled. Moved on to the valves. Removed all the rocker covers and checked the clearance on the rockers. Several I couldn't get the feeler guage under. To tight. Reset all valves as recommended. Spark plugs were set at 0.020 and reinstalled. Built a plywood test stand like someone had earlier in this thread and mounted everything up. Mixed Red Line oil 15:1 ratio with 91 ethanol free gas. Installed 22x10 prop. Here we go. Carb was set at 2 turns open on the main and 7 turns on the low. Motor would not stay running. Would die after about 2 seconds. Would burn off the gas in the carb barrel from choking and die. Pulled motor back off of stand and removed carb. Took carb apart and noticed the diaphrams were installed worng from the factory. These things are clear and hard to see. My recommendation to Saito would be to have a blue tint so they can be easy to see and install like the Walbro carbs. Put back together and cranked right up. Ran smooth even with a rich idle. I opened up the main about a 1/4 more turn and ran 24oz of fuel through it. I would increase speed to about half throttle to clear it out and then back to idle every 3 or 4 minutes which was a little high around 1800. I did get it to idle at 1300 to 1400 but preferred 1800 with the rich needle settings. Highest temp noticed was 189 checked with my pyrometer at half throttle. It ran around 160 at 1800rpm. Forgot to mention I installed the Keleo exhaust ring that I ordered when I ordered the motor. Sure does sound good. On another note in my opioion I would recommend to everyone that has this motor to slowly increase the engine speed from a idle to wide open throttle to give the cylinders time to clear out to prevent any hydraulic lock from being loaded up during idle from rich needle settings. Going to build a Top Flite Corsair over the winter months to put this motor in. I will further test and adjust during after flying. Not worried about wide open throttle until I get it in the air. Now I am building a Hangar 9 Carbon Cub with the Saito FG-21. Got this motor to test and run later. Back out to the shop to run some more fuel through the 60. Hope this post helped somebody.
Later Jeff
Later Jeff
09-22-2018, 04:10 PM
#1818
Liemtran 75, great to know you got it running. It's common for a few flyers to get # 2 & 3 ignition wires crossed. You sure have a nice smooth throttle transition from idle to full throttle and the exhaust note sounds great too!
09-23-2018, 09:48 AM
#1821
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Later
Jeff
09-23-2018, 11:29 AM
#1822
Liemtran 75, I agree with 757jonp, you are the only one in recent memory who has reported back to this forum with your findings concerning insufficient RPMs after others also recommended to check the ignition wires to confirm if they were connected incorrectly. I guess the others who had the same problem as you were to embarrassed or didn't give a crap about letting us know. Everyone makes mistake every now and then and it's nothing to be embarrassed about. Reporting back on the cause of a problem helps everyone who may experience the same problem in the future. Well that's my rant for the day!
09-24-2018, 04:00 AM
#1823
My Feedback: (13)
Thanks Bob. I'am not a very good writer so I probably forgot to mention a few things but this is a really nice engine. The only draw back I see is the carb. It is very sensitive to needle settings so a little patience is needed to get it going and find the sweet spot so to speak. I just ordered the carb conversion from Morris Mini Motors in England for the FG-60 which appears to be a walbro carb. Once I get it in and do a little testing I will post a review on my findings. I have bought other conversion kits for my OS twins from Morris Mini Motors in the past and they are great to deal with so anxious to try it out on this motor.
Later
Jeff
Later
Jeff