Hi everyone, I am having some difficulty with my new Great Planes Escapade 30cc ARF kit specifically to do with the engine. I bought a 35cc RCGF with the rear exhaust and carb and I'm having some issues with the spark plug boot. I have mounted the engine and the ignition as well as setup the throttle linkage and choke. The problem is the plug boot doesn't seem to be mounted snug enough. I have not run the engine yet but I have no doubt that the vibration alone will vibrate it right off. It is definitely seated all the way but I know that it will not stay on. Also since it is mounted with spark plug pointed down, gravity is also working against me. I have looked on the Web on several different sites and have not yet seen a good fix to my issue. I have found one link that suggests I should modify the casing and put a screw clamp on it but I rather not have to cut up my new setup. I am hoping that someone has a better idea for me or at least tell me that the fix that I described above is the only good solution so I can feel a more comfortable doing it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Also real quick, for a plane of this size (80 inch w.s.) and for someone who is not the greatest flyer, should I go with flaps or no flaps?

FYI, This is my first giant scale rc airplane and I want to make sure that I have the best possible setup for the plane and for my flying skills which are mediocre. So here is my setup, if there is anything that you think I can improve on or just change completely please feel free to let me know. I have not installed any of the servos, receiver, batteries or gas tank yet specifically because I wanted to hear from some seasoned flyers first. This is not like my other cheaper planes or my other rc cars and trucks. If I screw up it's going to very expensive. Your suggestions would be much appreciated.

Great Planes Escapade MX 30cc
FrSky Taranis X9D Plus transmitter
FrSky X8R receiver
(8) Tactic TSX55 servos
(1) Rcexl Opto Gas Engine Kill Switch
(1) Tenergy NiMH 6v 2000 mAh battery for receiver
(1) Tenergy NiMH 4.8v 2000 mAh battery for ignition
(1) Xoar 19x8 wood propeller
(1) Eagle A3 Super II 6-Axis Gyro w/ programmer
​(2) DU-BRO Switch w/ charging port

Thanks for your help

Is the split metal ring in the cap as that is supposed to keep it locked on the hex of the plug?
If so and the cap is still loose then you could install a small hose clamp and tighten it down over the hex of the plug.
Otherwise get a new cap.

On a new engine, 95 times out of a hundred, you aren't pushing the cap on over the plug hard enough. If you can still see the hex portion of the plug, you haven't pushed hard enough yet.

Yes, they're tough when new!

Ahicks.... thank you for the very simple yet great tip! I've never had that much resistance putting on the boot. I felt incredibly stupid when I gave it a hard push and it snapped right on. I almost didn't bother replying with this update because of how easy it was and the fact that I missed it. I gotta give credit where credit is due though. Thank you.

Looks like you fixed the loose spark plug cup problem, I had it happened on my DLE 35 but I've been using my 35 for nearly 3 years by now, my problem was a loose spark plug cup, solved it by installing a worm clamp, didn't modified anything just slid the clamp on and the RF went away, it now feels firm.

https://www.flyinggiants.com/forums/...d.php?t=214670

Here is a link to my Escapade 30cc, it involves two airplanes and two engines, you can always add the flap later, build it with ailerons only for now.

You could eliminate the ignition batt by making the Rcxel ign kill switch to a , I showed how on my thread, very easy to do, it will fly better with the CG very close to the aft CG point, use thin CA on every screw hole to harden it, no flying wires need for now, no need for a gyro.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...h-VVRC-40-twin