tim956ma

My Feedback: (27)

I just bought a EME 70 twin a few months ago but I just know got around to putting it on the airframe the problem I am having is it is hard to start it is getting fuel to the carburetor but I have to flip it probably about 50 times to get it to fire with the choke on, then if I take the choke off it will not start. If I leave the choke on halfway then it might start after about another 30 or so flips. But once I do get it started it runs very good it idles good it has good pickup and power and it does not quit. I did take the plane to the field for the maiden flight it took me a long time to get it started but once it did start I was able to fly the plane for about 11 minutes then I landed it to check fuel but could not get it to start again unless I go through the whole procedure of 50 or so flips so after my arms were so tired and sore I just quit. I did notice that the engine did have eme spark plugs in it. I wonder are those the right spark plugs or is it something else that is causing my starting problems I just wanted to know is there anyone else who have had this problem who could offer me a solution it seems like the company does not want to help unless I send it back and pay to have them find out what is wrong. Even though there is a 18-month warranty on the engine they still want to charge me.

kmeyers

U give no RPM numbers.
You give no prop info.
you do not mention how or where you needles are after tuning.
this is the most needed info for me to start guessing your problem starting.

tim956ma

My Feedback: (27)

It idles at around 1800 RPMs full power is around 6500 RPMs and the needle valves are set at the factory settings I did recheck them and I did reset the needles on the low end it is set at 1 and 1/2 out from fully closed and the high-end is set at 1 and 2/3 from fully closed. The only problem I have is trying to get it started once I do get started it runs very well where the needles are set I just wanted to know if anyone else had the problems that I am having with this engine and if so what did they have to do to get it to start.

tim956ma

My Feedback: (27)

I do not know if this matters but the prop size is
23×10.

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

tim956ma

My Feedback: (27)

Yes thanks for all the help and suggestions the needle settings is what the manual says I did check them and where I have them set is where the engine runs the best the spark plugs are the ones that they sent with the engine. The compression seems good the fuel tank is hooked up right I know that I've been doing this for approximately 35 years,the engine is brand new so it should work if not they should stand behind what they sell without wanting to charge me more money to find out what is wrong with this engine I have six other gasoline engines da engines,zenoah engines, OS engines,dle engines, and none of them give me any problems except this one. It should be something pretty simple I would think because once I do get the engine to start it does run really well the problem is it takes about 20 to 30 minutes to get it started. I'll just have to try to sell this engine and tell the person the problem that I have before they purchase it. From now on I'll just stick with desert aircraft engines and never buy EME engines again.

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

tim956ma

My Feedback: (27)

Yes I checked that the choke was lined up and fully closing. Also EME says that they use genuine walbro carburetors and not clones so that shouldn't be the problem the engine runs good once you do get it started the problem is it's just so hard getting started it takes about 20 to 30 minutes of flipping the prop to get it started. My mistake was not buying a desert aircraft engine from the start. I was trying to save a few bucks I should have known that would come back to haunt me.

carlgrover

I don't know the first thing about EME engines and nothing about twins but I'll try and help. It could be that your prop isn't clocked correctly. Zenoah engines have to be flipped different from others (not on the compression stroke). Your EME could be like that. Double check what is in the manual. You could also try using an electric starter.

When I prime a gas engine I hold my finger over the end of the carb and pull it through with the prop until my finger is wet. That usually doesn't take but a minute. If your finger is just not getting wet then you have a fuel draw issue. You could be sucking air at the carb intake or the diaphram is bad (I know this is a new engine but it could still be bad).

It also could be that the engine is so new that it will need to be run to get broken in. After it's had some time on it, it may get much easier to start and run. I wouldn't give up on it.

carl

ForcesR

I had an almost identical problem with a new DLE 55RA. Full choke on, the engine would bark with about 10 flips of the prop. Choke off and I could flip the prop all day and it wouldn't even bark or start. Put the choke on full again, engine would bark after a few flips of the prop, choke off and no amount of flipping the prop would the engine bark or start. So I did a little experimenting and after the engine barked on full choke I opened the choke between 1/4 & 1/2 open, just a few flips of the prop the engine started and run. It idled well and I had no problem going to full power at factory needle settings. I removed the carb and opened the pump side of the carb and inspected the pump diaphragm, it looked OK, it was soft and pliable just like new. As a precaution I replaced the pump diaphragm. I put the carb back on the engine, went through the start procedure again, choke on, roughly 10 flips of the prop the engine barked, choke fully open, flip the prop 3 or 4 times and the engine starts and runs as advertised. As far as I could figure out the two small flapper valves on the pump diaphragm were defective and not doing the job they were designed to do.

Roger

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

A couple of possibilities. First, the RCexl ignition supplied with current EME engines is rated for 7.4V to 12V, so you will need the correct supply voltage for it to work correctly. Many people don't catch that change from previous ignitions. Second, have you had a twin before or at least one that has the carb on the bottom. Think about it for a minute, with the carb on the bottom, smaller twins can struggle to pull the fuel charge into the engine at cranking speeds.Sometimes when choked the fuel just sort of pools on the choke plate and never gets into the engine. Some twins start best with the throttle set just above idle for initial flips until it pops, some at full throttle (of course this is with the choke closed). Then retard the throttle to just a tiny bit above idle and flip until it starts. Some just won't start at full idle but will crank right up with the throttle advanced a tiny bit. You need to learn what your particular engine / carb likes best for a starting procedure. I flip at full throttle, choke on until it pops. Always flip the prop with authority to get a decent airflow into the engine.

There is nothing particularly different about your EME than any other modern, decent quality RC gas engine. They all start pretty much the same and I doubt your EME will be any different once you find the right starting combination.

tim956ma

My Feedback: (27)

I work on the engine trying to get it started without taking anything apart off and on for about 3 days I did not take the carburetor apart to check anything I would think the company would rather do that themselves. I do have the prop set at 1 o clock when I drilled the holes in the prop, I am running a 6.6 volt life 4000 milliamp battery for the ignition I was told by Mile High RC that 6.6 volts would be okay although the manual did say 7.4 - 8.4 volts suggested. I only run 6.6 volt life batteries.the ignition is a new style that I never saw before it is plastic But when it does start it runs very good. For that reason I would think the ignition would be okay. and I was told by mile high RC that 6.6 volt would be fine. Maybe I have to go out and get a 7.4 2 cell.battery I never liked using lipo batteries. I did not want to go out and buy one of those big electric starters just for one engine because all of my other engines are able to start by hand. I will work on it a little bit more trying to get it started if that does not work I will just put it up for sale cut my losses. This time I will buy a good engine from companies that will stand behind what they sell.

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

I've noticed this also after long layoff periods. Good idea to start the engine then let it set awhile before flight.

tim956ma

My Feedback: (27)

I only flew the airplane the one time all the other times the running was on the ground and yes when I do reach under it to open up the choke sometimes the gas is running out from the carburetor after I had choked it. Also as I mentioned before you have to leave the choke on about halfway before it would even start so that tells me it's not getting enough gas, but it must be getting enough gas because gas does run out of the carburetor when I take the choke off. I just took the engine off the plane again this time I'm going to put it on a test stand and try to start it and maybe try some different things. I should not be having to do all of this with a brand new engine that is still under warranty I might just send it back to the company after tomorrow if things don't work out or put it up for sale I hate to spend more money with that company to have them only tell me that nothing is wrong with it when I know there is. So money I thought I was saving it's not worth the aggravation I am having.

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)