Joystick TX

Al is correct about the ignition having problems on the compression stroke.

Back in the old, old days, when we fixed everything instead of throwing it away, we used to have a spark plug tester. It had two functions, a sandblast cleaner and electronic tester. It tested the plug after it was cleaned to be sure that it would fire and it also put the plug under pressure to simulate the conditions in the engine.

The bottom line is that problems with firing under pressure can be the ignition module or the plug itself. Lucky for us, it is very rare today.

hookedonrc

I wonder if the best solution would be a totally new module? I have never been the best at fixing electronics or soldering. I think that is what I will do to eliminate the entire unit. The price, when compared to a new plane and electronics is reasonable. Better to do it now when it's already on the bench and cowl off. Add to that the unavailability of parts for the 182 as well as the plane itself, makes it an easy choice.

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

Buy a new module and while you are at it, order a couple of new caps. If the engine runs ok with the new ignition, Install the new cap on the old Ign and see if it works ok. If so then you’ll have a spare ignition and a spare cap. Caps are easy to install using only common hand tools and a heat gun to shrink tubing. Usually less than $10 at many vendors. There are videos out there that show cap installation as well a photos in several forums. If you’re going to be in the hobby you probably need to acquire certain skills and cap replacement is one of them. I don’t replace caps often but always keep spares around for when I need them.

Joystick TX

You may as well replace the plug too, they are cheap.

hookedonrc

I will check out the videos on cap replacement as I just misunderstood the process. I use heat shrink on a lot of my in plane connections, so am familiar with It. I have a box of various sizes and can select the one I need. As far as replacing the plug is concerned, it is the first thing I do even before a test run. Just pick up a few at my local auto parts store and keep a couple on hand. I never trust the one that comes with the engines. A plug is cheap insurance.
I would like to confirm whether, or not, you use the cap spring that comes with the kits? I have heard both sides.

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

I do not use the cap spring supplied by DLE. I have seen cases where it actually interfered with the cap going all the way the plug. Other engine companies don’t supply the springs even when the same ignition is being used. Regarding the shrink sleeve, it comes with the cap kit.

hookedonrc

Thanks, I ordered 2 new caps, and will replace one before buying the ignition module. One thing that I noticed when I removed the cap. The tightening ring is missing. At the top of the cap, it is separated a little. I will put on a new ring when the caps come and see if that makes any difference.

Joystick TX

I have five DLE engines and always use the spring. I've flown thousands of flights and never had a problem with them. When the 120 degree caps first came out they were hard for people to get on and I think they blamed it on the spring. The loose caps caused a lot of problems. Most people have learned to make sure the caps are tight now.

The spring serves two functions. One is to prevent the ignition from interfering with your receiver if the cap is loose on the plug, that can cause possible loss of control. The other is to insure that the cap makes a good electrical ground contact with the plug during engine vibration. If the contact is loose or intermittent, the ignition module or the hall sensor can be damaged.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Spring vs. no spring is an endless argument and has been for years. It's purpose is to assure the cap is grounding to the plug. Everybody agrees on that. If the cap is fitting snug on the spark plug, I don't see the need. Your call, do as you wish. Join the debate!

hookedonrc

I am sure that the first thing I will do is to make sure the ring around the cap is in place. It is quite possible that the plug is not grounding very well since it is missing. On the spring part, this is my 3rd plane using a DLE, yet the only one with problems. I should have been more observant, but I think the ring was missing after getting the engine and module back from Valley View. I will check the box to see if it is inside.

I looked and the ring is there on each plane, including this one. I am still recovering from eye surgery, and just missed it. On to the cap replacement.

Cub Flyer, I did not mean to hijack your thread.

hookedonrc

15 MONTHS & FINALLY RESOLVED ..... I know this is a long time coming, but I struggled trying to locate the cause of the engine dying upon acceleration. I will try to keep this short, but I went through numerous ideas, and still no change. And there were times where I rebuilt different systems with no success. Here is what I did:
1. First flight engine would idle, but with one click it would be at full throttle. (radio programming, was fine, but it turns out the ignition module failed after takeoff, so it was up to me to get it back down.)
2. Engine and module were sent in for repair and the module was bad, and it was repaired.
3. Reinstalled engine and module, but the engine would not run above idle as it would die upon throttle increase.
4. Reran the choke to ensure that the throttle was not hitting the choke lever causing the engine to die.
5. Tank and plumbing was completely redone to go from a 3 line system to a 2 line with T fitting,
6. Throttle was redone with new throttle arm extension allowing clearance with the choke.
7. Tests indicated that the engine still died upon throttle increase.
NOTE: When I started the original project, I wanted to be able to turn on the cowl landing lights separately so they would not be on 100% of the time. This would make their operation like a full scale take off and landing. I used the rotating flap knob (AUX 3) to allow for the on/off.
8. Totally rewired all systems including every servo, and all internal wiring.
9. Changed out the original optical kill switch with a newer model. RCEXL
10. Retested the engine, still failing above idle.
11. All drawings that show the RCEXL kill switch show 2 batteries, in order to run the switch, which I had.
12. Finally, after months of changing and rewiring, and reprogramming, etc., I decided to add a 3rd battery.
13. The 3rd battery is now running only the landing lights, using a mini servo to turn on/off the switch in the fuselage.
14. So now I have the optical switch, receiver, and servos running from the dual battery set up shown in the RCEXL instruction manual and the landing lights running on their own "separate" battery except for the on/off landing light switch.

I decided to run one final test before replacing the entire engine and ignition. She started, needed a little tune up, and the DLE 20 is a screamer, running just as smooth as ever. Just need to reinstall interior, fine tune the engine, and do a "2nd maiden" flight. If there is such a thing.
I don't know what was causing the actual engine dying, but it had to do with the wiring. I am not doing any more research because the 3rd battery has resolved all issues. Final internal set up is pictured....

I still don't know why adding a separate switch to the cowling lights caused the engine to die, but I will take the 3rd battery as the resolution. And I doubt any other flyer will run into this, but here is what I did to get it working correctly.

Joystick TX

Glad you got it working. I have had and see a lot of problems related to the opto kill switches and stopped using them several years ago.

I only use the Tech Aero IBEC now and two batteries and two power switches for redundancy. Our battery reliability is really good now, but the switches are still a high failure item due to vibration. A third battery just for lights is not a bad idea in any case.

How I wire up my planes is shown below.

Joystick TX

Another thing I found is that the new ignition modules will quit if the voltage drops below about 4.3 volts. If you have any sudden load changes, lights, stalled servo, etc. that loads down the voltage, even a drop for a short while, like a spike, to that level the ignition module will quit and kill your engine.

I used to run my planes on 4.8 v, 4-cell batteries, now I only run them on 5-cells., our use LiFe types.

hookedonrc

I am now running 3 Turnigy 2000mah NIMH’s (6V) and have other planes with them too. To me they are nearly bullet proof. All of my electric planes use recommended LIPOS. This problem with the 182, had to be electric since I tried everything else first. 😁. That seems to be my typical process, but I have to admit, doing everything else first improved the set up. Stuffing a DLE 20 RA in the 182 makes a nice set up, but the space around the carb is mighty small then add the pitts style muffler, and it is very tight.

Joystick TX

I ran the 6V NiMh batteries in my planes for years. I liked them because if I forgot to turn off the plane when I got home, it didn't ruin the batteries.

I use a low voltage alarm now so I feel safe using the LiFe batteries, haven't burned any up in four years.

Sounds like the opto kill and your light controller didn't like each other. I would bet that the Tech Aero IBEC would work with your lights.

Glad you got it all sorted out. Your plane and engine sounds like a great combination.