If I ordered a BME 110 today ....
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From: Calgary, AB, CANADA
Rather than asking for speculative answers, why not ask Keith yourself? In my experience, he's a very straight forward person, and I'm sure he'd give you an answer based more on fact than you would get from people that don't really know.
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From: Cressona, PA
Depends on How you order it. If you order it without ignition you will have it within a few days. If you order it with ignition you will wait a few months. You can order without ignition and just wait a few months until the ignition comes in. This way you can get the plane RTF.
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From: concord, NC
An alternative would be to order the engine from BME, sans ignition, then order a standard CH ignition with synchrospark module, telling them it is for a BME, and refit it with DA or 3W plug caps to fit the CM-6 plugs. You might be able to get the ignition quicker this way. Some of the CH ignitions with synchro-spark had the ability to be 'timed' at either 20 or 28 degrees of total advance. You may be able to stipulate the proper amount of desired advance to match the timing point installed by BME. If this is the case, it has proven advantageous to set the engine up for the shorter advance curve of 20 degrees, which gives a smoother idle at no cost to overall power. Since the engine is static timed at 28-30 degrees, then the synchro-spark module in the ignition "delays" the ignitions firing until the pre-determined point, you should have no problem installing an ignition with either advance curve chosen.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
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From: Dimondale, MI
Kris^
I have a spare 3W ignition and a spare DA ignition laying around and I wondered if whether one of these would work on the BME. I'm putting this in a Carden 35% 540 that's already under construction. I have a 3W 106 for it and I want to try cannister mufflers but don't want to add 2# to the plane. Made sense to use the 110 so I could actually have my cake and eat to too. Now that doesn't happen very often.
While you're here ..... Where did you get the materials to build the headers for your BME? Did you have to cut your own flange? I also talked to BME today and they were saying that a 2" header into 70cc cannisters was the way to go. Seems very short to me but I have no experience with cannisters so am looking for guidance. I see that 3W was recommending a 10" header length. Comments/thoughts/suggestions ? Thanks.
I have a spare 3W ignition and a spare DA ignition laying around and I wondered if whether one of these would work on the BME. I'm putting this in a Carden 35% 540 that's already under construction. I have a 3W 106 for it and I want to try cannister mufflers but don't want to add 2# to the plane. Made sense to use the 110 so I could actually have my cake and eat to too. Now that doesn't happen very often.
While you're here ..... Where did you get the materials to build the headers for your BME? Did you have to cut your own flange? I also talked to BME today and they were saying that a 2" header into 70cc cannisters was the way to go. Seems very short to me but I have no experience with cannisters so am looking for guidance. I see that 3W was recommending a 10" header length. Comments/thoughts/suggestions ? Thanks.
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From: concord, NC
First off, when using a DA or 3W style ignition, you will have to build a mounting plate for the ignition pickup, as well as modify the crank hub to accept the interrupter magnet. then you will have to time the engine for about 28-30 degrees total advance at 5000 rpm or so. It's not the easiest of tasks for the novice modeler, but it can be done. Given that both the DA and 3W ignitions have proven to be very reliable now, a good solid installation would be a viable alternative, however. According to Dave Johnson at DA, the best way to time the engine is to have the engine at TDC and the interrupter magnet just PAST the pickup probe (shiny dot) on the inside of the pickup, and go from there. The diameter of the crank hub, and speed of the magnet, are kind of critical in this application, so be sure to have the OD of any adapter mated to the crank hub the same as the hub for the 3W's or DA's. I measured the hub on one of my engines, and it's OD is actually about the right diameter for a magnet to lay against without drilling, then simply afix a piece of aluminum tube to the outside of the hub, with a hole in it for the magnet, and position as desired. Keeping the adapter from moving is not hard, and JB weld or some small machine screws can take care of that.
Like I said, the diameter of the hub, and speed of the magnet, are what control timing on this style of ignition, so it's a good idea to get it right the first time and be careful with the "adaptatioon"
My headers are made from home-cut flanges, made from 3/4" hole washers and massaged with a Dremel tool to fit the BME exhaust flange size, then brazed to the short 25mm KS elbows available from DA. I've used both the 70 and 75cc canisters, and power is about equal with both, although the 75cc canister seems to make just a little bit more. I'm re-vamping my smaller fiberclassics 330 right now, which has about 5" headers, but they are going to be cut back in the interest of space considerations to move the canisters away from the sides of the plane. I'll wind up with just the elbow and about 1" to 1/2" of header straight pipe, and I expect the power to go up slightly as the BME seems to prefer this type of setup.
I actually tried some long headers, approaching the theoretical 38-39" overall exhaust tuned length that would tend to match the exhaust duration of the BME, but power REALLY fell off, by about 500 rpm over previously seen numbers. I slowly cut the headers back until I reached baseline rpm figures, then continued to shorten them and watched the rpm keep increasing, along with having to start richening the top end mixture as the engine flowed more air. My final results were over 7000 rpm on a Mejzlik 28-10 with just an elbow for a header, the 75cc canister inlets shortened to 3/4", and a very short coupler. Rpm for the Biela or Menz-s 28-10, or the Mejzlik 29-10 went to over 6400 rpm, and I'm sure that with shorter canisters and more testing time the rpm figures would increase even more. . THAT will be a project for this Winter.
One thing to remember about the recommendations coming out of Europe for the Pefa exhaust systems. . the systems are, first of all, a bit enthusiastic in their "ratings" of how well the canisters match engine size. I've found that going up a size is always a good idea. . But, when you go up in size of the canister, your total flow length and volume go up as well, necessitating a shorter header for optimum "tuning", which is what you get with a 70-75cc canister and very short 2-3" header on the BME110.
Hope this helps.
Like I said, the diameter of the hub, and speed of the magnet, are what control timing on this style of ignition, so it's a good idea to get it right the first time and be careful with the "adaptatioon"
My headers are made from home-cut flanges, made from 3/4" hole washers and massaged with a Dremel tool to fit the BME exhaust flange size, then brazed to the short 25mm KS elbows available from DA. I've used both the 70 and 75cc canisters, and power is about equal with both, although the 75cc canister seems to make just a little bit more. I'm re-vamping my smaller fiberclassics 330 right now, which has about 5" headers, but they are going to be cut back in the interest of space considerations to move the canisters away from the sides of the plane. I'll wind up with just the elbow and about 1" to 1/2" of header straight pipe, and I expect the power to go up slightly as the BME seems to prefer this type of setup.
I actually tried some long headers, approaching the theoretical 38-39" overall exhaust tuned length that would tend to match the exhaust duration of the BME, but power REALLY fell off, by about 500 rpm over previously seen numbers. I slowly cut the headers back until I reached baseline rpm figures, then continued to shorten them and watched the rpm keep increasing, along with having to start richening the top end mixture as the engine flowed more air. My final results were over 7000 rpm on a Mejzlik 28-10 with just an elbow for a header, the 75cc canister inlets shortened to 3/4", and a very short coupler. Rpm for the Biela or Menz-s 28-10, or the Mejzlik 29-10 went to over 6400 rpm, and I'm sure that with shorter canisters and more testing time the rpm figures would increase even more. . THAT will be a project for this Winter.
One thing to remember about the recommendations coming out of Europe for the Pefa exhaust systems. . the systems are, first of all, a bit enthusiastic in their "ratings" of how well the canisters match engine size. I've found that going up a size is always a good idea. . But, when you go up in size of the canister, your total flow length and volume go up as well, necessitating a shorter header for optimum "tuning", which is what you get with a 70-75cc canister and very short 2-3" header on the BME110.
Hope this helps.
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From: Dimondale, MI
Kris^
That helps a bunch and everyone should appreciate the obvious time and effort you have put into research on this subject and then freely share with the rest of us. Time is in short supply for me and I never would have found enough to duplicate your work. Super job. Thanks.
That helps a bunch and everyone should appreciate the obvious time and effort you have put into research on this subject and then freely share with the rest of us. Time is in short supply for me and I never would have found enough to duplicate your work. Super job. Thanks.
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From: Naples,
TX
I saw Todd Blose flying the prototype BME Ultimate with the Exteme 110 in it at a fly-in in Henderson Tx last weekend. He was using standard mufflers and a 28x10 Mezlik. I didn't tach it or anything, but it sounded like it was hitting at least 7000rpm. He said the plane weighed 28 lbs all up with smoke. He was hovering and doing torque rolls down on the deck and this thing would absolutely BLAST out when he nailed the gas.



