I am having trouble setting up an Irvine 1.20 ringed engine, and wonder if I'm doing something wrong.

Please tell me what the proper procedure is for breaking in this engine. I cannot find the manual.

Should it run rich? Should I use a particular prop? How long might the break in period be?
Many thanks,

Sean
[email protected]

I have the 150 irvine and this is what the manual says, 120 will be the same.

"With a ringed engine the idea is to run it VERY rich for the first few tankfulls punctuated by small bursts of leaner running to allow speeds to build up for short periods. This should be carried out at FULL throttle using the main jet needle to control speed changes. After the first tankfull the model can be flown."

"As more running is achieved the leaner periods can be prolonged until about one hours running has been accomplished. The engine should then hold full power without fading. If the engine shows signs of slowing, richen the main needle mixture immediately."

You want to use a prop with less engine loading for break in, like a 15x10 or 16x8. The main needle should be 3 turns out for the first few tanks. Hope this helps and good luck with your engine.

BTW these big 2 strokes don't like high nitro fuel. The manual says 80/20 with 5% nitro.

I also did a bit of research and found that some folks here on RCU say it will take nearly two gallons of fuel to break in a ringed motor...(they didn't specifically mention *this* motor...)

Have you broken in the 150 yet? Did it get much stronger after the break in? could you tell when the rings seated?

Thanks!

Sean

No I have not broke in mine yet but I know a dealer for Irvines that has said when they are broke in there is a noticable difference in the exhaust tone and you will be able to hear a big difference. The power will come way up after this as well.

As far as how many gallons, I don't think that is a good way to tell as all engines are different, but I'm sure 2 is close. My dealer said after 5 or 6 gallons you can really tell a difference.

If you just use some common sense with the irvine you'll be fine. Always make sure that you see a smoke trail while flying. If you don't it's too lean.

You don't have to run it on the bench for two or three gallons. Put it up in the air after you get through this stage as stated by CAP232CM:

"With a ringed engine the idea is to run it VERY rich for the first few tankfulls punctuated by small bursts of leaner running to allow speeds to build up for short periods. This should be carried out at FULL throttle using the main jet needle to control speed changes. After the first tankfull the model can be flown."

"As more running is achieved the leaner periods can be prolonged until about one hours running has been accomplished. The engine should then hold full power without fading. If the engine shows signs of slowing, richen the main needle mixture immediately."

Then be careful not to lean it out completly. Finish the break-in in the air.

Jim

When new, the ring has a very small end gap thus must be over lubricated while the ring is taking a shape in the cylinder, all the while wearing ever so slightly. If this is not done and the engine is allowed to get overly hot the ring can ether catch and break, or glaze the cylinder, thus not making a good seal and losing compression. I am sure this is not the book definition, but you get the idea.

The point being that too rich is good - too lean is bad. You won't hurt the engine by running it too rich for too long. The opposite is not true.

Today's engines are not all made with the same level of quality and finish from brand to brand. This further complicates the matter of ringed engine break-in times. OS engines appear to require the least amount of break-in time while running blubbery rich. I am not familiar with Irvine's philosophy, so I would follow their instructions to a tee, so to speak. Truthfully, I follow the manufacturer's instructions regardless of my familiarity. It's just good common sense.

Since engines that are running rich are producing less power, it might be wise to select a model that flies well on the reduced power so that the engine will not be tempted to lean out the engine to make the model fly better. I usually have one such model in my stable, set aside just for breaking-in engines and testing new/repaired radios.

Sounds like I need to be patient, break it in using a rich mixture, and have fun!

I really appreciate everyone's input.

cheers,

Sean