Does the fox 3.2 use a mechanical advance ignition (like Brison, and the older A&Ms)?

Thanks in advance.

Dennis

Frieshoo, I have a Fox 3.2 and no it does not use the mechanical spark advance. It uses C-H's electronic advance ignition. If your thinking of owning one, you won't be disappointed, it's a beautiful motor, nearly to pretty to put a cowl over.

Dale

Bigger is always better.

The Fox 3.2 i got last year was a real piece of nothing compared to the Brison motors. The cylinder assembly had not even been buffed out and still had the foundry marks on it and the rest of the motor was not buffed or cleaned at all , very disappointing to say the least. Mine runs descent but the midrange is terrible with the sycrospark , i am sending it to Brison when i get the funds and have a mechanical ign installed . It also costs a lot more than most 50 cc motors includingn Brison and so forth. I had to sound negative but i guess i am just calling it like i see it. I emailed Charlie at Fox and received no emails back .

A guy at one of the local fields has a 3.2 for sale.. He said it was a fox, but it looks like the Brison.. It does have the mechanical advance, so I guessing it's either a Brison, or a modified Fox.. correct?

BTW, it runs great, he uses 32:1 Klontz, and it swings a 22x8 NX 7300.. I'm going to buy it, and put it on a wildhare edge.. He had it on a World Models Extra.. Nice Combo.

Thanks for the help.

From what i understand from the owner of fox motors he used to use the mechanical advance and then started using the sycrospark so it coule be a fox. If it runs ok i wouldnt be afraid to buy it then from someone you know.

Brison and Fox use all the same parts, the only possible difference can be in the way the crank and rod are made...
A bad midrange with syncro spark mostly comes from the low speed needle being set too rich...
Polished on the outside does not make a better engine..
Brison should pay YOU to take the syncro spark off, it costs way more than the mechanical parts.....Check the price of a C&H syncro VS the mechanical ignition
FWIW..I have been making the BEST mechanical advance system in the world for the last 18 years..A $3.00 ball bearing on the hub and a piece of G10 epoxy board for a new carb insulator block to rotate the carb...NO SLOPPY LINKAGE OR BELL CRANKS...Throttle servo connects directly to the carb...
Bragging ? Damn straight, 18 years, still nothing better...
And I didn't copy a company that went bankrupt....

Ralph.

It's ironic, and kind of funny that the Brison 3.2 ad appears above your post.. (I least on my PC).
You should be getting my G62 today, or friday. She's been a good engine, and I have had a bunch of fun with that engine and an old Laser.

Hi Ralph this is Bruce Swartfager how are ya havent seen much of you on here lately , any way i might send my FOX in to you and you can put a mechanical advance on it , i really dont care what you do to it just make it run like it should. I have adjusted the sycrospark every which way but loose and it still runs like crap. I know it dosenot make the motor run any better to have it polished , but when i got the 2.4 back from you a few years back you polished it up and make it run better it was the fpe with that fixed ign on it. It went from 6600 rpms to 7400 with the ign you put on it. My point is i feel if you keep your shop dirty then your work comes out about the same quality. I cant complain about any Brison motor i have had 6 of them now and they all run excellant and Gary treats people like you Ralph with diginity and respect . Also i have a 6.4 twin Brison which has the sycro on it and it runs excellant at midrange. All of my other ones are 3.2 motors. Just my 3 cents worth. Nice seeing you on here Ralph . By the way Ralph the Brisons are about 120 bucks cheaper because of the mechanical vs. the sycospark to buy new. Your correct they are cheaper to have the throttle advance compared to the sycrospark installed.

Hi Bruce...Visual appearance makes a big difference to some people...A Rossi .40 is sandcast and beadblasted on the outside but is like jewelry inside, and it runs like it...
Some people like the red paint on the Air Hobbies engines......
You don't EVEN want to see the inside of my shop
Some of the FPE engines were timed about 10 degrees retarded, that's what I fixed on yours....
I'm going to find some black wrinkle paint and do a G26...Wrinkle on the cases and cylinder and polished fins and hub..It will then look as good as it runs....
Hey, maybe then I can charge $500

Your right Ralph , would you be interested in taking a look at the Fox 3.2 and seeing what you could do with the ign sytem , like i said it has the sycrospark on it , it would be interesting to see what you could come up with and maybe improve the midrange. Thanks Ralph.

You sound like you know about gas engines so hopefully you can answer my question which is: How much crankshaft end play, if any is acceptable in a Fox 3.2 or any gas engine for that matter. I have approximately 1/32 play front to back on mine. Should I be concerned? It runs and sounds good but I want to catch a problem early if it is a problem. Thanks

Manufacturing tolerances can make a slight difference when the engines are assembled...End play is not a big problem...It can be taken out with a shim under either bearing in the case or using thin steel washers between the crank and bearings...Zenoah makes crankshaft shims for some of the weedeater and brushcutter engines, and some of the G62s a while back..Haven't seen any in the newer ones...[8D]

I just bought a fox 4.2 to go on my giant stinger.the motor seemed to be to rich i did not want to mess with it cause it is bran new i was going to lean the top end and bottom end by a quarter of a turn what is the lowest you should go from base.if the needle were all the way in what would be the least turns out you would want to run it.before i could adjust the motor the firewall on the stinger broke what a _ _ _ _ drag please help

There is no exact setting...Every engine is different...Start 2 turns out on both and peak the high, then start leaning the low until the transition is bad...Richen the low until the transition is good and back and re set the high for peak rpm, then back it off until the engine just starts to slow down..Should be good to go...

I have a Fox 3.2 First used engine I ever bought. It had a bad rod bearing when I got it. I'm going to replace the top rod bearing soon. It's making noise.

But, it runs great. One of the guys at the field today said it was the smoothest running gas engine he'd ever seen. It's on a GP 1/3 Pitts, and the tail doesn't even quiver when the engine is running. You could set a BB on the tail when this engine is running, and the BB wouldn't vibrate off.

I'm around 4500' elevation--maybe 4800'. The engine has a C&H ignition and I have the timing completely retarded as far as it will go. It is turning an NX 21-8 at 7200-7300RPM. I bet it would turn a 22-8 at those RPM if I'd get out the degree wheel and actually set the timing at 28* BTDC. As I said, I have it set completely retarded right now. Don't have a clue where it's actually timed, but I'd bet money that it's nowhere near 28* right now. Probably more like 20* or 24*

Smooth runner. Choke it untill it pops and then flip about 5 times to start. Putter Putter Putter

I don't care what it looks like. It's buried under the cowl.