How many of you have had problems with the Super Tiger 2300?
What problems did you have and how did you fix it?

Those of you with out any problems, what is your configuration...What prop, size & location of fuel tank, how much cooling area, etc.

I've just fired up my 2300 and need to know what to expect for performance and problems.

Thank you for your help.

Kelvin.

Notorious engine for carb problems. See following website for fixes:

http://www.rcfaq.com/ (go to engine link)

The above website had the following topics concerning the ST engine:

I CAN'T GET MY ST2300 TO TUNE PROPERLY!!!

Newsgroup notes, including some by AM Cross, Product Support Manager for the 2300 importer

Dick Hanson's header & pipe setup

Bob Pastorello's pages...

New Motor Checks

Super Tigre 2300 General Setup Info

CARB Modification

Modified Carb Drum

ST2300 Engine Setup--GOOD Page--with information provided by the legendary 2300 Guru Dick Hanson

Pe Reivers' 2300 modifications for perfect throttle response

ST's Super Tigre 2300 Spec's

My 2300 ran great right out of the box with a stock carb and stock muffler and still does. It's in a Balsa Nova and the head and most of the cylinder is in the airflow. I use a 16 oz tank which gives me 8 minutes of flight time not including taxi out and taxi in and all that. I'm using a 17/10 APC which both the plane and engine seem to like real well. I tried a 18/6-10 but the engine didn't like it. It got very sensitive to the needle. !6 inch props gave me flat spots in the power curve except for a 16/14. The engine liked the 16/14, but the plane didn't. I haven't tried a 18/8 yet. The plane weights 10lbs10oz.

Well, Luigi must have made you a special carb for your ST2300, because the rest of us got some real losers. I have 2 of these engines and have seen 2 other examples in friends' planes. They all display the same problem - mixture is too rich at about 1/3rd throttle. It cannot be adjusted with the mixture screws to cure the problem. Now, if you don't fly at 1/3rd throttle you will never observe the problem. The engine runs fine at idle and at full throttle with instant acceleration, just don't try to fly at 1/3rd throttle for very long or the engine will load up with fuel and die.

Easy fix is Conley/Perry Mega carb #5001. Or you can go after the stock carb with a dremel tool on the barrel slot to straighten out the "dogleg".

I like a 17x8 APC prop and 25% nitro for My ST2300 for my Sig Cap - big power and dead reliable with the Conley carb. Also be sure and use a good hot plug. Everyone I know uses an OS-F plug with great success.

The only remaining problem is the factory's inability to produce engines or parts until they complete the move to China. Don't crash it or wear out anything!

My experience last year was that the ST2300 was one strong engine at full throttle, purred at idle and died in midrange. Two others in my club had 2300's with no problems, but not me. The club's Super Tigre bigots worked it over extensively with no success. Great Planes worked with me for over a month, even shipped me a fuel pump to try a fix -- but no dice.

I bought another engine for my H9 CAP (OS FX1.60), but I hated to give up on such a strong engine. I see there is a Conley carb that can solve the problems, so luckily you now have a backup plan if you just happen to have one of those lemons.

St2300 - easily one of the most powerful/light engines ever done-
Here is what happened :
ST released the first version with a very large , conventional carburetor.
I got one of the first.
It was obvious that the carb would not draw fuel properly the way it was configured.
Why? The design changes mixture as the barrel rotatesand this "relative fuel to air mix" was excellent when the barrel was almost closed and the engine was sucking hard on the spray bar as well as the air thru the carb air supply.
as the engine reached full opening, the fuel "suction" really got diminished.
way too much air for the fuel available.
Just not enough suction from the crankcase at wide open throttle and lower (8000) rpm's.
Super Tigre intended there to be pressure from the tank - and on the FIRST production run - the single outlet muffler would provide fair pressure - about 1/4 lb.( I measure tank pressures with a quality 0-5 lb gauge).
The next production engines had a *******ized carb with a tiny bore in the bottom half and a reworked throttle opening control slot. Worse yet -a dual outlet muffler - !
This combo effectively killed any tank pressure and wrecked the air/fuel mix.
How /who/why this was done is a mystery still - My best guess is that they were trying to get more rpm with the dual outlet muffler and the carb redesign - well, that was simply an error.
Many users wanted an in cowl muffler - none of these provided correct tank perssure. the best I ever saw was under 1/4 lb with one stack closed off.
Pumps/regs were added by many with results from awful to ok.
The real fix -was to duplicate the first muffler and carb (for an engine running smaller props such as a 15x8) which worked fine on faster revving setups.
For real power tho - on props such as 18x8 which would turn over 9000 rpm, the setup was a F glow plug -25% nitro and oil,the original carb setup -(or a laterone redone to original specs and MOST important - a header and tuned can which brought up pressure from zero at low speeds to over 1/2 lb -up to 3/4 lb at full rpm.
The pumped setups I saw ALL, (thats's ALL), had so/so transition at lower speeds unless the top speed was still on the lean side.
The net result - premature ring wear.
I sold all my ST stuff and went to the ZDZ40 for the power I was after for 1100-1200 sq in models.
I also got tired of pouring a a gallon of 15 buck fuel thru in a single day.
But if glow fuel were a couple of bucks a gallon - I would have kept the Tigres.

Thanks for your input guy's...It is greatly appreciated.
I do have a Bisson muffler with twin exaust for the 2300, but it sounds like maybe I should try to block one of the exaust outlets to gain some tank pressure. It would be nice to have a reliable powerhouse under the hood to pull the 14# around.
First flights could be interesting.

Thanks,

Kelvin.

I put an OS 7D carb on mine; you also need to use an OS adapter part no. 22022014 with this carb. I'm running 10 or 15% Cool Power fuel, and a stock Bisson muffler (both outlets open). I use an APC 16X8 prop, no rpm figures. The carb changed this motor completely; it's dead reliable, starts quick and makes great power. I'll add two points to the above posts: This engine takes at least two gallons to break in (noticeably better transition), and it's very sensitive to the low speed needle adjustment so take the time to get it right.

I have four and they are great, prop 16-10 APC fuel Heli 1. If your muffler has two outlets plug one as engine needs back pressure.I am fortunate to have Dick help me set them up.

Just out of curiousity, what did you plug your hole with? (that doesn't sound right does it)
Did you leave any type of opening so it doesn't fill up with fuel?

Thanks again.

A piece of dowel(pine). This is on the muffler that has two outlets, the first ones only had one. Surprised that it has stayed in for over a year now. Also did not mention use F plug.

Just to throw in MY $.02- ST2300 with a Slimline Pitts on a 1/4 Lanier Laser. 18x8 / 15% Powermaster.(smaller diameter carb,Not the 2500 one)
Ran out of the box-9600 rpm on the first tune. The carb needs a coat of silicone sealer on installation,the O ring is not enough(just a thin coat)
ST engines are not designed for Nitro fuel-they run better on less rather than more.Or at least a lot more reliably.
And 25% is $25/gal in Alaska.
I too am waiting for GP/Tower to start selling parts again-I managed to break the ring when replacing the front bearing.


http://candoo.rcwing.com

Supertigres not designed to run on nitromethane?
Interesting theory...........but wrong.

If an engine has too high a compression ratio, then high nitro could be a problem. But that's not the case with the ST2300. Engines also tend to be mre reliable on higher nitro. You get a wider practical needle setting the more nitro you use. Also the higher heat of the nitro makes it easier to keep the plug hot and the fire lit. I've got a very reliable ST2300, and I only run it on 25% nitro. And yes, it's costly.

I have two S.T.2300's and I have converted both over to the Perry/pump/carb 5001 setup. I get good results on my pattern plane running a Mac's Quite pipe. OS F plug 15% Ritches brew ($10gal in Tx). The other one is setup in a Cap with a bisson muffler. I will run these till they cant be repaired or sold.......then get a kick ass O.S. 1.6.

Toymaker,

how well does the one with the Bisson muffler run? That's what I have and am looking at blocking one side off for more pressure.

I appreciate all you guy's feedback.

Just got it set up on this Cap and haven flown it yet. Will report soon though. The guy I got it from had one hole plugged and had the stock carb on it. So I assume that muffler needs one plugged for more pressure. With a pump shold be no problem.

I was looking through a model mag the other day and came across ads for onboard glow drivers and this got me to thinking....would I get a better (more reliable) midrange if I purchased one of these with the 3000 ma battery and set it so it comes on at half throttle or so?
Just a thought.


Thanks

I would run it with out all these things. Set it up like Dick Hanson said in one of the first posts..My three all run great no pumps, regulators or on board glow. Dick did help me with set up. and yes F plug and Heli plus for fuel..they DO like nitro. Good Luck

I have a ST 2300 that I flew on a H-9 Ultra Stik for over a year. I have just sold the plane, kept the engine. Setup is:
Perry Pump and 5001 carburetor, 15% Nitro, OS f plug, Bisson Pitts muffler, APC 18 x 6 W FunFly prop, turns 9200 on bench. Great idle (1800), midrange , and transition. This engine has NEVER flamed out on me. Also one of the smoothest engines I have ever seen, almost zero vibration throughout the throttle range. With the Perry regulating pump (VP-30) you do not use pressure to the tank, just vent the pressure line from the tank to the outside.

I have had bad running with my ST2300 because of the "improved" Supertigre carb, and after discussions with Ted Bloom, solved all problems on the go. The solutions are documented on my web page. http://www.reivers.myweb.nl
Also available are drawings of the required modifications, and CAD sections on a Mousse can motor mount for the engine.
Treat it well. It is the best large glow engine I ever saw, and it has the Italian material quality go side by side with the Italian temper! Do be careful not to break the ring when you dis-assemble the engine. You might not find a replacement.

Just ran this engine this weekend on my new Cap232.
Bisson muffler had on hole plug by previous owner. Was very quite and tached about 7800rpm on an 18x6 w/Zinger on 15% Ritches brew and Perry/pump/carb tnak on C.G. Ran very smooth and predictable. Would run much harder on higher nitro, but all have is 15%. I unplugged the hole and gained about 250 rpm just a little louder but acceptable. I will try different props. 18x8 Simitar series is supposed to be a good one. I am also going to try a 18x6-10 for grins.

I now have a Zinger Classic 18x8 wide blade if someone could use it.... $10... I will mail it to you. Just wont work with this engine.

Thanks for keeping me up to date Toy. I appreciate it.

That Bisson muffler must kill horsepower. A large volume MCP, or a Krumscheid reso tube runs well with APC 16x12 and Menz-S 18x10. Both engines run at our field (one is mine). The 16x12 powers a RC1 Extra with unlimited vertical. The 18x10 powers my freight train for piggy-back duty.

Pe'

I have run 16x12 APC and 17x10N APC on my pattern planes withe the S.T.2300 with good results in the 84-8600 rpm range, however that is with a semi-tuned pipe setup too. What nitro content do you use? I may be propping up to much. I just thought the wider blade props would work better in this type of airplane (25% Cap 232).

Hello Pe:
Glad to see you found this forum.
From your old bud, Ted Bloom.
Regards...