LMAO!

Ralph--You did some testing one time and found that a higher percentage of oil equated to more power (to a point)
correct??

Just remember this......air can be compressed but fluid can't.... the more fluid you add to the air mixture the more pressure it takes to compress is. After a while it may cause bearing/crank failure because of that extra pressure. This is no different than racing engines but they are built to withstand the extra pressures with head and rod modifications and the rods and crank use Babbitt bearings. If you check on the use of different bearings you will find that some are made for heavy loads while others are made for high speed/ light load. This also holds true with seals used in the engines.....some use Buna which serves as a starting point but some manufactures have went a step further and have gone to Viton and possibly Nitrile (sp). Buna is the softer , more flexible but it is also softer and wears quicker and case pressure can leak past it easier. Viton is stronger and will last longer but with it's strength also comes its ability to wear a groove in shafts.

There are trade-offs which have to be made when building an engine and when you increase one thing something else has to be changed or it won't work......

Robert
You were right, there was not a card on file. I filled one out with your name, a 2.4, purchased on 9/15/05. Sorry for such a delay
Gary

Ralph
I haven't done the compression tests, but I did do heat tests. The schocker was at 40 to 1 the heat started going up, and by 32 to 1 I got a 50 degree increase. The temp also started going up above the 80 to 1 mark, but that was expected. I was using a good synthic, and no I don't remember which one.
Gary

Hay Jack
Yes I was kidding.
gary

So I guess if I use 1:40 for all my engines (MVVS, Brison and Poulan conversion) I should be in a good shape, right? I mean with Motul, that is synthetic racing oil that exceeds JASO FC requirements.. blah, blah, blah .. I have no clue what is that, but this one and Mobil 1 2T are recommended by Pé Reivers (from MVVS Netherlands).

I really hate to haul the whole gass station to the field just because I have planes with engines from different manufacturers[:'(]

GARY...
Shocker to me too, Clarence Lee always said oil helps to carry heat away...
TKG did some test a few years ago comparing 100LL to 87 regular...Maybe he will see this...

Gary,

Just bought another brison engine. got it from Hodges hobbies out of Andersonville Ga.(For those who don't know. a lot of brave american men died there a long time ago ,God reat their soles) I sure hope that it works as well as my 2.4.By the way it is a 3.2.

Gary Thomason
Thanks for a great product

Gary was there any problems with your blue case 6.4 twins with the c/h shielded plug caps and the smaller plugs and adapters . I seemed to have heard a few years back when i got mine blue cased 6.4 that someone told me that there was some heat issues on the smaller plugs i really cant remember the details . I love my 6.4 it might not be the most lite twin but for my needs it hooks up good running a 27/10 NX prop.

Bas,

There isn't any difference in the 6.4 between the blue and polished case engines other than the color. I use the 10mm (CM6) plug and CH ignition on mine with no heat issues whatsoever. I've heard that the 1/4" plugs don't last as long before they need changed, but that's to be expected. A few years ago CH was provided with some parts (not the fault of CH) that would not tolerate heat well, but they resolved that issue immediately after it was discovered. A better source for an answer to your question about any heat problems and ignitions would be Terry at CH Ignition.

Bruce
We never had a problem with the 1/4x32 plugs, but several other engine mfg's did. You would have to call Bill or Terry at CH Electronics about which engines are running too hot to use these plugs. I am not going to start nameing names about engines that run to hot. It was nice to hear Brison had the "lightest" 50cc. brag, brag, brag.
Gary

HI Gary,

I was just looking at the documentation that came with my 3.2 that I bought in September of ast year (2005) and it says to have the settings as follows:

Idle needle 1-3/4 to 2-1/4
High Speed needle: 5/8 to 7/8

But the Brison web site says

Idle Needle 2-1/2 to 2 3/4
High Speed needle: 7/8 to 1 1/8

Which one is correct?

For those of you that may need it I created a mounting template for the 3.2

http://www.hiddenhangarrc.com/pdf/Br...2_template.pdf

Bubba,

Any of the settings noted in either manual are only beginning reference points to get the engine started. I, too, have manuals printed at different times and have noted the differences. For all of my engines I've found that anywhere from 1-3/4 on both to 2-1/4 on both work just fine to get the engine started. From there, final tuning takes place to suit your altitude and enviornment. Expect minor adjustments to be necessary as the engine breaks in, then very few adjustments thereafter.

Pat

Pat,

I actually was just bored out of my mind and came across the documentation and remembered that I saw something different on the web site so I thought I would just ask.

I actually have mine just broken in and running like achamp. Nice and lite and powerful

Bubbagates
To start with you need to see if a "S" is stamped next to the fuel inlet on the carb. The settings are different if there is a S. We started modifing the carb with a lighter spring to help the midrange burble. If there is not you have a standard carb, but I still need to know which one you have before I can tell you the settings. The model # is also stamped by the fuel inlet. The most common is a WT-76
Gary

Thanks Gary,

I'll check later tonight when I get back home. I was just bored out of my mind last night and at first I could not find the documents that came with the engine so I went online, then found the paperwork and noticed the differences.

The engine is running beautifly. I actually working on someone else's engine that bought his the same time as I bought mine

Hi Gary, I have a silver cased 3.2. The carb has a "S" stamped by the fuel inlet. Where do you recommend I start the needles? I got the engine never run, new, so I don't know if anyone turned the needles. Thanks!

Gary at Brison or anyone in the know: regarding the Motul synthetic oil you were talking about: I have a A&M 2.0 ci I bought used and the only synthetic oil I could find locally was at a motorcycle shop and it is Motul 600 ester based. Is this ok to use in my engine and at what mix would you recommend? I could not find any amsoil locally.
Thanks for your help in advance!!
John

Marzo91
I start at 1-1/4 on both hi and low and normally end up at 1 and 1. I would start off by seeing where you are now. If you are anywere around 1 and 1 leave it alone and go fly.
Gary

Thanks Gary.

You can buy the Amsoil online.....here's the link

https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/Se...?CategoryID=27

R. Buhrman

The oil I was told to use is Motul 800 2T Racing series. It is not the same as 600. What the difference - beat me.

I hope this thread and Brison are still alive and well,no posts since 3/06? Anyway, I have a new B 2.4 with only 3 flights and a couple break in runs on the ground-maybe used 3 20Oz. tanks so far. The transition from l-H is pretty bad,I tried once to lean the low and have richend the high some without much if any RPM drop. Getting around 7,000 with Mej 20X10. The one time I leaned the Low 1/8 turn, it bogged down a couple times and quit once during transition, so I went back to original setting. I read about a new "lighter" spring going for $1.75,should I replace it or wait for breakin to complete before I decide. (just where is this spring,is it the one that sits under the fork-like lever over the plunger?)

You did not note the oil mix ratio. That would have helped note the stage the engine may be in, but I think it's still in the early stages of brek in. It's way too early to be messing with springs and such. The transition and mid range will improve as the engine runs a little more but in the meantime try some carb adjustments to improve things. Lean the high needle to peak and back off about 100 rpm. Now lean the low needle to peak and leave it at peak rpm. BTW, do the low needle adjustments at about 2,500 to 3,000 rpm.

Now try the transition. If it's not what you want, work the low needle about 1/16 turn at a time either way to improve. Leaning the low needle too much will always "bog" the engine. Read the post about 'break in time" for a little more info.