BELRAY MC-1
#1
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From: TUCSON,
AZ
I have a 3w-106 is any one useing this oil (50:1)
or AMSOIL SABER (100:1)
I was told that Amsoil carbbons up a lot and is hard to get off. But with the Belray mc-1 it just wipes off ,so AMSOIL or BELRAY who running what ??
THANKS
or AMSOIL SABER (100:1)
I was told that Amsoil carbbons up a lot and is hard to get off. But with the Belray mc-1 it just wipes off ,so AMSOIL or BELRAY who running what ??
THANKS
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From: Fort Smith,
AR
I run the belray mc-1 at 50:1 in every motor I have had, mostly 3w engines (several 106s). Its a great oil and not much carbon buildup on the inside. I have never been sold on amsoil. Belray mc-1 is good stuff.
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From: Gatineau,
QC, CANADA
I used MC-1 at one time and liked it very much. I was running it in a 3w 60, 50-1 and after a crash I took the motor apart all was very clean inside. Can't get it any more if I could I would use it!
#9
ORIGINAL: 3410253
THANKS
I"m going to change with the BELRAY MC-1
THANKS
I"m going to change with the BELRAY MC-1
Karol
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From: Fort Smith,
AR
even when I ran amsoil in my 3ws, I always ran it at 80:1, not 100. I never felt comfortable flying 100:1, especially when it was 100+ degrees outside. I cant see how running less oil would make more power, so I stick with 50:1
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From: TUCSON,
AZ
THANKS,
FLYINRAZRBACK
yes it gets well over 100+ degrees here to. Allways that it was not right to use 100:1 when 3W tell you 50:1 - 80:1 oil mix .
FLYINRAZRBACK
yes it gets well over 100+ degrees here to. Allways that it was not right to use 100:1 when 3W tell you 50:1 - 80:1 oil mix .
#13

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From: Puryear, TN
How's the MC-1 wipe off compared to Mobil Racing 2T? IMO the Mobil is just about like wiping castor oil off.[:@] Not much of it, but what is there, is a gooey mess.... Stihl oil on the other hand is thinner and wipes right off.
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From: Fort Smith,
AR
The MC-1 wipes off effortlessly, if there is any at all to wipe off, it burns very clean. I used to run the mobile stuff, its a very good oil too, I just like the bel ray more.
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From: Schenectady,
NY
Hi, 3410253, Ken (Starfighter) here.
The correct BelRay Oil to break in our engines is S2. This is an Ashless, Mineral oil formula that can be run safely at 80 to1 mixtures, but it is better to run any new engine at 25 to 40 to 1, then switch to 50 to 80 to 1 after break in is complete (still using S2).
Yes, the S2 can be safely run at a ratio of 80 to 1.
Use the MC1 AFTER break in is complete, if you must. But you will find that the S2 is a FANTASTIC oil.
Oh, almost forgot; other good break in oils are Pennzoil, Lawn Boy, Quaker State, Stihl, Sachs Dolmar to name a few. Also, they are all Ashless mineral oils.
I only run S2 now, at 50 to 1 after break in ( I run it @ 40 to 1 for break in). There is no mess on the plane, the carbon is soft/oily and just wipes away. Try it, you won't be disappointed.
PS: Advice is from an old guy whose been doing this for more than 50 yrs (me).
The correct BelRay Oil to break in our engines is S2. This is an Ashless, Mineral oil formula that can be run safely at 80 to1 mixtures, but it is better to run any new engine at 25 to 40 to 1, then switch to 50 to 80 to 1 after break in is complete (still using S2).
Yes, the S2 can be safely run at a ratio of 80 to 1.
Use the MC1 AFTER break in is complete, if you must. But you will find that the S2 is a FANTASTIC oil.
Oh, almost forgot; other good break in oils are Pennzoil, Lawn Boy, Quaker State, Stihl, Sachs Dolmar to name a few. Also, they are all Ashless mineral oils.
I only run S2 now, at 50 to 1 after break in ( I run it @ 40 to 1 for break in). There is no mess on the plane, the carbon is soft/oily and just wipes away. Try it, you won't be disappointed.
PS: Advice is from an old guy whose been doing this for more than 50 yrs (me).
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From: kinrooi, BELGIUM
You're right Starfighter,
I use S2 to for break-in. But than I switch to H1C, from Bellray to, it's a synthetic oil.
I think it doesn't matter what type of oil you use, just be sure it's a good one and follow the mixtures.
I use S2 to for break-in. But than I switch to H1C, from Bellray to, it's a synthetic oil.
I think it doesn't matter what type of oil you use, just be sure it's a good one and follow the mixtures.
#19

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Does MC1 cause you to use 10% more fuel like the HR1? I heard from RCBugman that the Bel Ray HR1 causes the engine to use more fuel since the oil does not combust. How about MC1? I used to use MC1 in my Suzuki Quadracer (250cc water cooled 2 stroke) and it ran awesome.
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From: Fayetteville,
NC
An interesting article on oil/carbon buildup can be found at
www.rcaircraft.net
Click on Do It Yourself Articles "Please Visit Them"----then click on 2 cycle oil test summary
Several different oils were tested running engines full throttle hours at a time. In case you don't want to read them, the conclusion was that Bel Ray HR-1 uses more gasoline by 15%. However, there is practically NO carbon build-up as with other oils.
Larry
www.rcaircraft.net
Click on Do It Yourself Articles "Please Visit Them"----then click on 2 cycle oil test summary
Several different oils were tested running engines full throttle hours at a time. In case you don't want to read them, the conclusion was that Bel Ray HR-1 uses more gasoline by 15%. However, there is practically NO carbon build-up as with other oils.
Larry
#21
I have never used HR-1 which is primarily designed for power valve engines, but it has been my experience that while using other quality oils prior to switching to MC-1, the fuel consumption of my engines have remained pretty much the same with no marked difference either way.
If using MC-1 in your Suzuki racer made it perform to your liking, then more than likely it will give similar results when used in your model engine.
Karol
If using MC-1 in your Suzuki racer made it perform to your liking, then more than likely it will give similar results when used in your model engine.
Karol
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From: Locust Grove,
GA
I have used both Amsoil 100:1 and Belray MC-1
I used the Amsoil at 100:1 and the Belray at 70:1
The amsoil has hard black carbon deposits that are difficult to remove.
I soaked the engine in automotive engine flush and the pieces would come out in chunks when the engine was started. No clean up was necessary.
I have been useing the Belray at 70:1 for some time. The MFG says it is good to 80:1 so that is why I chose 70:1. It burns clean and also leaves the engine and exhaust covered in balck carbon deposits. These are soft and can be wiped off with a rag and some thinner. Soaking the engine in automotive engine flush reduces or removes most of the carbon deposits and makes everything easier to clean. Just using a cloth takes care of most deposits.
The bugman report can be found here.
http://www.rcaircraft.net/articles/oil_test/
I used the Amsoil at 100:1 and the Belray at 70:1
The amsoil has hard black carbon deposits that are difficult to remove.
I soaked the engine in automotive engine flush and the pieces would come out in chunks when the engine was started. No clean up was necessary.
I have been useing the Belray at 70:1 for some time. The MFG says it is good to 80:1 so that is why I chose 70:1. It burns clean and also leaves the engine and exhaust covered in balck carbon deposits. These are soft and can be wiped off with a rag and some thinner. Soaking the engine in automotive engine flush reduces or removes most of the carbon deposits and makes everything easier to clean. Just using a cloth takes care of most deposits.
The bugman report can be found here.
http://www.rcaircraft.net/articles/oil_test/



The Bel-Ray is good stuff too.
