jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

ScottK

At the time of the video this engine already had 2 gallons of fuel run throw it. I ran 1 gallon of fuel throw the engine before I even flow her. The RPM readings have been getting better with each flight. It has gone from 7800RPM when brand new to 8400RPM right now. I only have a little over 2 gallons of fuel run so far and Scott at Brillelli says it may take up to 5 gallons before she is really loosened up. If I ever get to 8800RPM on this engine like my other Brillelli this is going to be one awesome flying plane.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

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Gas engines aren't like "some" (Saito) glow engines in that regard.

ljones5000

My Feedback: (2)

I received my Brillelli 25GT EI this week and have been busy installing on a 25% Widl Hare Edge 540. It should be a good fit for this plane. I have been so impressed with how good the engine looks and sounds. The first time it cranked on the second flip and ran perfectly, transitions good and tached 8200 rpm on a Zinger 17X6 prop. I believe in breaking in the same as my cars; i.e., I just get in and drive. So I am running BelRay MC-1 at 50:1, the same as I have done with my other gas engines. So far, I have only run maybe one 20oz tank, if that much, and the engine is spewing the usual goo. I have not flown, maybe next week.

The problem: since the first time, I have had a hard time cranking the engine by hand. I can crank with an electric starter but one object of going gas is to "flip and fly". The only reason I bought electronic ignition was for ease of cranking; so far that has not been the case. I can't figure out if I am flooding or not choking enough. As you know, there is no choke but it is easily accomplished by putting a finger over the intake. Just a couple of turns on the prop and fuel is dripping out of the intake. I have cranked a couple times by flipping but it took a number of flips. The electronic ignition does not have syncro-spark, whatever that is. I think it has to do with timing of the spark and, whatever, I think my spark is not syncronizing with my gas and air.

How do you crank your Brillelli? Are you cranking by hand and how much do you choke?

Thanks

Larry

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

Starting drill for all gassers is the same..Turn on the ignition, set the throttle just above idle, choke it, and flip until it fires...Open the choke and flip until it fires and runs...Sometimes if the carb is not full it may take the choke again to get it running..
Electronic advance just keeps you from getting hit by the prop when starting, it's at full advance at 4000...Small engines don't kick back much anyway, so fixed ignition works just fine..I have only made a few of my G26 conversions with syncro spark....

Zippi

My Feedback: (10)

I seem to have the same problem ljones5000. Since I'm new to gas I thought it was just me. I hold my thumb over the velocity stack and turn the prop over until I see the fuel reach the carb and then I give the prop a couple extra turns. It seems to take several flips to get it to pop and then a few more to get it running. Even after it's ran for a while I still have to run through the same process. Unlike a Nitro engine, once you get them fired up, the rest of the day they are easy to start. Is it better to leave the butterfly on the carb open or closed while choking? I have been leaving mine closed.

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

I have talked to Scott about thus and he says starting will get easier as the engine breaks in. Also make sure your low end is not set to lean. That will make an engine harder to start. My Brillelli has about 2 gallons run throw it right now and I still start mine with the starter. I do this just becasue it is easier to start. I had my low end to lean and it was hard to start even with the starter. I riched the low end as per Scotts instructions and she is much easier to start now. My engine is getting stronger with each run. Right now I am getting 8450RPM with a APC 17x6 prop. I have not flown the Giles since I made these adjustments and I cannot wait to get to the field.

ljones5000

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks for the explanation, Ralph. The routine you describe is exactly the way I crank my other gassers and they are easy to start. jstanton indicates low end could be too lean but the engine transitions responsively and runs well overall, once cranked. I have not touched the low needle and have been reluctant to do so, figuring I'd make things worse. It is true the engine has very little time on it and I will try to give it more time. The good news is, that after the first run and the engine is up to temperature, I can crank it by hand. But when it is cold I have held my finger over the velocity stack with the ignition on and throttle open and flipped until probably as much as two or three tablespoons of gas run out on the ground after I remove my finger and still no pop. I'd even settle for a little kick now and then if I could just feel some life in there.

Larry

ljones5000

My Feedback: (2)

jstanton/Zippi, this is for what it's worth....I have spent the entire morning trying to crank this engine by hand. My electric starter is so weak, it won't even turn the engine over and I am averse to buying a new starter.

Finally, I took the ignition off one of my other planes that runs good just to see if it would make a difference. It didn't. So I started looking at the plug and it was saturated with gas so I know there is gas but why won't it burn? The engine came with a NGK BPMR7A plug so I replaced it with a NGK BMR6A which I run on my 4.2 FPE. It still wouldn't fire. So I tried a Champion RDJ8J which I run on my 3.2 FPE and, alas, the engine cranked on the first flip! I ran the engine long enough to warm it up, then switched back to the original ignition to see if it would still crank and it cranked right up. However, it was warm and I won't know if it will crank cold until I let it rest long enough to get cold. I am encouraged that I might be able to crank the engine using the Champion plug.

You might give it a try. The plug (again) is Champion RDJ8J. It would be interesting to see if you can tell a difference.

Larry.

Zippi

My Feedback: (10)

Glad to hear you got her fired up. The plug that came in mine is a BPMR7A (NGK). I'm not sure if the NGK is the brand name but thats all I see on the plug. When I first got my engine I was pouring gas in a cap and then dumping it into the carb. Even with that much fuel it would only take 5 or 6 flips to pop and then a few more to start. I have decided not to use the hinges that came with the kit since I read the flyer that was in the kit about not using the hinges in some models. I decided that some models means all models. I have already replaced the landing gear with the CapX gear. Epoxied all the joints on the engine box, installed the EI in the engine box, and bought new hinges. All I need is a few weekends off so I can get some work done on the Giles 202 but it don't look like that will be any time soon.

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

Larry

It is good to here you got the engine to start when it was cold. I thought about trying a champion plug to see if it would make a difference, but mine has always started using my himax starter. I am going to try the champion plug to see if it will make any difference on the low and top end. Mine has just over 2 gallons of fuel run throw it and is stating easier now. Good luck with your and let us know if the champion plug makes any difference in performance.

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

Larry

I have a champion RDJ8J and it does have the same threads as the NGK BPMR7A, but does not have as many threads as the NGK. Meaning it will not reach into the cylinder as far as the NGK. Mine is running pretty good now that I have richened up the low end a little. I can flip start it on 2 flips when it is cold. Are you still using the champion plug/ If you are what is your idle and high end RPM readings and what size prop are you using. I am using a APC 17x6 prop and I am getting 8400RPM on the high end and I have a good idle at 1800RPM.

frieshoo

My Feedback: (20)

I made a "choke" stopper for my Brillelli GT25 EI. I have never used an electric starter on mine. It's starts easy, and just like my other gassers. Here's my routine, FWIW.

First my home made "choke". I use an old fuel tank stopper. I have a 4-40 rod running through the side of the stopper. I have a small hole in the side of my Caps cowling. I place the stopper over the velocity stack from the front, I push the stopper into the stack from the side (using a small flat head screw driver in the small hole on the side of the cowling). At first I would hold the stopper in place, open the throttle, and prime... but every other time I would FLOOD the engine... THIS ENGINE WILL FLOOD EASY, and maybe mess up the plug....

So, I decided to NOT hold the stopper, and NOT open the throttle to full.... Instead, I now use the standard procedure for starting gas engine.

choke it (stopper in velo stack), ignition on, high idle, flip 4 times, usually pops on 5, remove my stopper, flip 2 times, starts on 3rd or 4th flip.... Pretty simple. Good running engine.

I have it on a World Models Cap 232, swinging an APC 17x6 at 8200.

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

Dennis

I just looked up your world Models Cap-232 and it is just about the same size and weight as my Giles-202. How does the Brillelli 25GT perform on the Cap-232? My engine performs as suspected and fly's the Giles very well for a pattern stunt plane, but she does not have the power for any 3D stuff. My engine is getting stronger with each run and I am hoping to some day get to the same RPM as my other Brillelli 25GT I have on my Giant Big Stick.

frieshoo

My Feedback: (20)

My Cap has been modified (lighter than the stock one). It's about 11lbs AUW. It's not a 3D model, the control surfaces are small (with the exception of the rudder). I can hold a decent hover with the combination, but it's not enough to get low. I have to push the nose down , and fly out of the hover. I have about a gallon through the engine. IMO, the engine has plenty of power for this model. Sport flying, and Imac stuff are super.

I'm going to do some prop experimenting this week. I have a wide assortment of 16-19 inch props. My MVVS 1.60 would turn a APC 18x6W 8400rpms. I don't see a reason why the GT shouldn't turn that when it gets good and loose.

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

Dennis

My Giles-202 weighs 12lbs, but I was not able the lighten her up any. How did you take weight off of your Cap? If I could lose a lb it would help a lot. The Giles is flying very well now that I have over 2 gallons of full run throw the engine, but being lighter always helps. Do you have any video of your cap in action?

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

Here is a short video we took of the Giles-202 after we had 2 gallons of fuel run throw the egnie. You can see the Giles is flying better, but I had a mishap on a landing and broke one of the landing gear. that is why the video is so short. I will be flying again this weekend and I hope to get some video at that time.

http://media.putfile.com/Giles-202---Brillelli-25GT-EI

frieshoo

My Feedback: (20)

THe CMP Giles is sharp.

I replaced the stock landing gear with a fiberglass landing gear (Similar the one on the Giles). I removed some of balsa from the fuse sides and bottom (It was crashed when I got it, so getting the balsa out was pretty simple). The motor box is smaller.

Landing gear was the big subtraction. I would guess a stock WM Cap would weigh in the 13lb range.

Zippi

My Feedback: (10)

Jim, the BPMR7A (NGK) plug that came with my engine, do you know just what brand it is and where can you buy them?

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

Zippi

The Brand is NGK and you can buy them at www.sparkplugs.com. Just put in the number of the plug in the search area and it will pull the plug up. You can order as many as you like. This is where I get all of my small engine spark plugs from.

Zippi

My Feedback: (10)

Thanks Jim. How's their shipping charges? I'd hate to order a couple and the shipping be more than the plugs. I haven't had much of a chance to work on my 202, I keep getting moved around from 1st to 2nd shift and 7 days a week. I did get to fly this weekend for about an hour, ran out of daylight. I guess thats better than not at all.

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

Zippi

Thier shipping charge is not to bad. I ordered 4 plugs and I think the shipping charge was onlt $4.00. The plugs cost $2.25 a piece if I remeber right.

Sorry to here your working to much. I know this has to be done, but we all need time to relax at the field. I want to see you giles in the air when you get her ready. Can you take some video of the maiden flight?

Sturtz

My Feedback: (20)

Just about any local auto parts store will have the NJK plugs or can get them within a few hours. I have bought them from AutoZone and O'Reilly's while breaking in my GT.
One reason a new Brillelli 25cc is a bit tough to start is the new and very tight front bearing seal. Mine is starting to loosen up a bit finally. I quit trying to hand prop mine some time ago. I use a Sullivan Hi-Torque starter for the first start. Then you can hand start it after that. But I simply keep using the elec starter because I know it's not broke in yet. Wait till the mid summer when the temps are hot outside. It'll start easier then I bet.

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

Strutz

Glad to here from you again. How is your Spitfire coming? Have you flown her yet and do you have any video of that nice plane in the air. I am thinking about getting the CMP F4U Corsair and putting a Brillelli 25GT in it.

Sturtz

My Feedback: (20)

Hi Jim ! Yes,, on the maiden~~ no on the video. Flys great and performs like a 1.25 Saito . I posted the report on the Spit thread.
Corsair eh ? That should be a winner.

ljones5000

My Feedback: (2)

jstanton, yes I am using the Champion plug, I buy them and the NGK plugs at Auto Zone down the street from where I live. They are not expensive. With the help of Scott Elligson and Terry at CH (indirectly), I have solved the cranking problem. I took a cork wine bottle stopper, drilled a hole through it just large enough to impale a brass tube all the way through. This stopper has a wooden top with cork under, the kind you get at a wine store or a Bed, Bath and Beyond...something like that. If I knew how to put a picture on here, I'd show you. The problem I had been having trying to choke by hand was that no air gets in the carb so the engine floods. By putting the tube through the stopper, enough air is admitted so when the engine gets a prime, it fires. Once it fires, remove the stopper and flip a few times till it runs...like all gassers.

Today I flew my plane with the Brillelli 25GT for the first time. The engine just sputters in the air and I thought I was going to lose the plane a couple times. The engine could not develop enough power because it had gone rich due to turbulence in the cowl. On the ground, it runs fine with the cowl in place. After a couple of harrowing flights, I removed the cowl, took off and the engine never sputtered the first time. It is turning just over 8000rpm on the ground. You asked about the idle rpm, I have never checked it but the engine has a very reliable, steady idle at a low speed. It also transitions very responsively.

I will need to solder a tube on carb to run a static line away from the cowl. I plan to work on that this afternoon and try again Thursday (can't fly on Wednesdays, golf day. Being out of work is hell).

Seriously, I'd like to know how to put a photo on here. The message below this window says "click here to upload images and files!". I click on it, pick out the file (jpg) and it then says "file uploaded successfully". But where did it go? I have tried clicking on "image" above but all I get on my message here is the word "image". I'll try it again but could use some help.

Larry

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