3W Hall sensor cable question
#1
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From: Copperas Cove, Tx.
Hello,
I've got an older 3W-120. The hall sensor cable has 3 wires, red, black, white.
I bought a newer IIS Ignition module but the sensor cable has 4 wires, black, blue, yellow, red and the connector is different.
Can I splice my old connector onto the newer module? If possible, I pretty much figured out red for red, black for black, but which wire would I connect my white wire to?
Or..... Do I also have to buy a new hall sensor too?
Thanks in advance,
Mike
I've got an older 3W-120. The hall sensor cable has 3 wires, red, black, white.
I bought a newer IIS Ignition module but the sensor cable has 4 wires, black, blue, yellow, red and the connector is different.
Can I splice my old connector onto the newer module? If possible, I pretty much figured out red for red, black for black, but which wire would I connect my white wire to?
Or..... Do I also have to buy a new hall sensor too?
Thanks in advance,
Mike
#3
Optech,
No can do ole buddy, the IIS ignition is two magnets and the older ignitions are single magnet. May be able to get away with
just buying a new hub and sensor. Don't know, talk to Kevin at Aircraft International.
Good Luck.
JDS
No can do ole buddy, the IIS ignition is two magnets and the older ignitions are single magnet. May be able to get away with
just buying a new hub and sensor. Don't know, talk to Kevin at Aircraft International.
Good Luck.
JDS
#5
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The new sensor is located in a different place on the case, with a different bolt pattern..You will likely have to drill and tap new 3mm holes for the screws that hold the sensor...
The green magnet triggers the sensor..
Correct placement of the sensor is , looking down at the sensor, facing the engine..
Engine at TDC
the green magnet has passed the left edge of the sensor bracket by about 1/2 inch
The other right edge of the sensor bracket exactly bisects the red magnet..
Might work with the old hub if timed right but the functions that use the other magnet won't work...
The green magnet triggers the sensor..
Correct placement of the sensor is , looking down at the sensor, facing the engine..
Engine at TDC
the green magnet has passed the left edge of the sensor bracket by about 1/2 inch
The other right edge of the sensor bracket exactly bisects the red magnet..
Might work with the old hub if timed right but the functions that use the other magnet won't work...
#6
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From: Copperas Cove, Tx.
The magnet in my hub now is red.
I understand that I might be able to keep my hub and use a DA ignition and sensor instead. I know that the 106s and 240s we have at work are now coming with DA's but I'm not entirely sure what the process is to put them on.
Mike
I understand that I might be able to keep my hub and use a DA ignition and sensor instead. I know that the 106s and 240s we have at work are now coming with DA's but I'm not entirely sure what the process is to put them on.
Mike
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From: Piscataway, NJ
Would have been easier to just buy a JWE ignition (old style 3-wire) instead - just plug and play.
If you insist on converting to the new style, you can send it in and we can update the hub for you.
This consists of two possiblities...
A) The old magnet can be drilled out and filled with aluminum putty and the two new magnets can be installed.
This only works if your case is drilled for the sensor mounting holes on top and bottom.
They you just buy the sensor and go.
Total cost: Sensor + 2 Magnets + Labor and shipping
B) This is what happens usually...
New Hub + Sensor + 2 Magnets + Labor and Shipping
The gain: You just added the ability to run NiCads and 2 Cell LiPo's with no regulator.
The New IIS ignitions also add a sleep mode where the ignition goes into standby and can be re-enabled by flipping the prop once.
It's a nice safety feature in case you forgot to turn off your ignition and some kid tries to flip the prop. By the time he gets to flip it on the inert first flip, an adult can get a hold of him to prevent a second flip when active. Should make the AMA feel all warm and fuzzy.
Kevin Schlosser
"PropellerHead"
Aircraft International
If you insist on converting to the new style, you can send it in and we can update the hub for you.
This consists of two possiblities...
A) The old magnet can be drilled out and filled with aluminum putty and the two new magnets can be installed.
This only works if your case is drilled for the sensor mounting holes on top and bottom.
They you just buy the sensor and go.
Total cost: Sensor + 2 Magnets + Labor and shipping
B) This is what happens usually...
New Hub + Sensor + 2 Magnets + Labor and Shipping
The gain: You just added the ability to run NiCads and 2 Cell LiPo's with no regulator.
The New IIS ignitions also add a sleep mode where the ignition goes into standby and can be re-enabled by flipping the prop once.
It's a nice safety feature in case you forgot to turn off your ignition and some kid tries to flip the prop. By the time he gets to flip it on the inert first flip, an adult can get a hold of him to prevent a second flip when active. Should make the AMA feel all warm and fuzzy.
Kevin Schlosser
"PropellerHead"
Aircraft International





