GIANT AEROMASTER/EVOLUTION 58GX
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From: Monmouth,
NJ
HAS ANYBODY DROPPED ONE OF THESE GASSERS IN A AEROMASTER? I NEED SOME HELP. ANY MODS. NEEDED TO MAKE IT FIT, IE: CUTTING THE FIREWALL, STANDOFF LENGTHS....ETC....
PLEASE HELP[&o]
PLEASE HELP[&o]
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From: San Antonio,
TX
fmnspooch,
You will have to cut a hole in the firewall to clear the carb. You will either buildup the firewall with plywood or use short standoffs to get the proper prop position. Here are the engine drawings and Aeromaster manual.
Dave
http://www.greatplanes.com/manuals/gpma1225-manual.pdf
You will have to cut a hole in the firewall to clear the carb. You will either buildup the firewall with plywood or use short standoffs to get the proper prop position. Here are the engine drawings and Aeromaster manual.
Dave
http://www.greatplanes.com/manuals/gpma1225-manual.pdf
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From: Lehigh Acres,
FL
I fly my Giant Aeromaster, (built from the kit), with a Zenoah G-45. The motor installation is much easier since Zenoah doesn't have that rear mounted carb arrangement. The power of the G-45 is just enough for normal flying, but with the all up weight in the area of 21 pounds or so...it would do much better with the G-62. I amy change to a G-62 one day. I hope this helps.
jim
jim
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From: Glen Arm,
MD
Fmnspooch
Are you talking about the new ARF kit or the old build it yourself job? The old kit was a lot heavier and lot beefier most of the ones that my friends fly are the old kits using G-62's and they weight in the low 20's. But I have the ARF kit and I think you could stick a small block chevy in that sucker and it wouldn't weight 21 lbs. Also it has a lot of frame work behind the firewall which you have to work around (or remove) to install a motor other than the one's it is set up for.
Are you talking about the new ARF kit or the old build it yourself job? The old kit was a lot heavier and lot beefier most of the ones that my friends fly are the old kits using G-62's and they weight in the low 20's. But I have the ARF kit and I think you could stick a small block chevy in that sucker and it wouldn't weight 21 lbs. Also it has a lot of frame work behind the firewall which you have to work around (or remove) to install a motor other than the one's it is set up for.
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From: Monmouth,
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Guys, thanks for all the input, brought the fuse to my field today w/the motor, the guys were drooling fromt the mouth. Did all the math, Im going to build up the firewall 3/4" and use the 45mm standoffs. It will give me the room I need for the rear carb setup and almost 1/2 in of breathing room for air intake. I just need to move the cowling as far forward as possible.
Should be a real thrill to fly when all is done, will keep you posted.
THANKS AGAIN GUYS
Should be a real thrill to fly when all is done, will keep you posted.
THANKS AGAIN GUYS
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From: Glen Arm,
MD
Well before you cut loose with the MVVS 58 I have just two questions, and beleive me it has been bothering me about mine and has made me think twice about using my G-62. First, the plane looks good but is not as strongly built as the kit, second the wings are held on by 4-40 bolts, at both the center and outer cabanes. I believe the kit used 1/4 20's, maybe I'm just being an old maid.
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From: San Antonio,
TX
fmnspooch,
As propwash-don pointed out, you may want to use some piano wire bracing diagonally on the wings and tail feathers to distribube stress. The manual says that a 3.7 gas engine can be used, but who knows if they tested the structure in a high stress situation.
Dave
As propwash-don pointed out, you may want to use some piano wire bracing diagonally on the wings and tail feathers to distribube stress. The manual says that a 3.7 gas engine can be used, but who knows if they tested the structure in a high stress situation.
Dave
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From: Monmouth,
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Guys,
Makes sense, the flywires. I will definetly add them to brace up the flying surfaces.
Thanks a million for the suggestions.
Makes sense, the flywires. I will definetly add them to brace up the flying surfaces.
Thanks a million for the suggestions.



