Hi all

As I'm retesting my engine after a crash, I managed to get the engine started with a different ignition unit as the original one ie Zen20CC Ei have busted plug cap and suspecting electric leak as some have suggested here.

With new ignition, I managed it to pop and start too and hover at hi idle. But on throttle up, its just no response at all. Its just humming a tad higher and lower, literally no response.

My needle is 2 turn on both H & L. Thinking its too rich, I leaned the L and I got some increased of the rpm which is logical. But still no throttle response!!!!

Whats give?

The new ignition unit required 40 degree timing but I may be a bit off but given what suggested here, its ok and will respond except I won't be seeing max power. This is ok with me as I just want to make sure the carb and engine is ok after the crash.

Could it be the timing really too far off or something wrong with diaphram of the carb????

Anyone know what is the original Zenoah G20 cc EI timing?

Thanks!

anyone know any of such situation.....

I have just changed the diaphram and other parts that come with the repair kit. Have not tested but the old diaphram still looks good as it only have 1 gallon of fuel so far...

No engine is timed at 40....The Zenoah manual for the 26 is 28 degrees BTDC, there is no reason to think a G20 would be any different...I don't have my G20 yet, but don't know if the ignition is timed like a Falkon at 2 BTDC...
Ask TKG, he has been running one for a while now...

Hi Ralph

I actually swap the Zenoah original G20 ignition with a RCCDI unit from china as the zenoah spark plug cap is busted somewhat that the cap is kinda loose though it still sparks when the plug is outside the engine. Someone mentioned here at RCU that undercompression if there are leaks, it will not jump within the plug and I may have lost the electron outside the engine. I have not managed to start the engine at all with the original Zen ignition unit since the crash but it have the sparks outside and I stumped. The RCCDI start the engine once it primed and its just no throttle transition.

I actually use the original hall sensor position with the RCCDI one.

The RCCDI instruction said I must mount the hall sensor 40 degree off the magnet at TDC. Attached is what the manufacturer suggested. Maybe that is not called 40 degree timing.

So what is my next step.

PS: I manage to improvise the fuel inlet nipple with some brass tube and no leak so far.

Beats me, must be something different in the circuit or sensor.. Maybe they copied the syncro spark from C&H...If the old Zenoah cap is bad you could try taking it off the wire, then pull the shield braid back and connect the end of the inside wire to the spark plug..connect the braid to the engine block with a short piece of wire and try running it that way....I have run 3Ws that way on my test stand when the cap has been destroyed in a crash, just can't fly a plane with it....
My 3W twin test ignition is an old crashed unit..Exactly that setup witn NGK bakelite resistor caps on the wires and a ground wire with a spring clip on the end to connect to the engine..Works fine....
Try moving the sensor as far counterclockwise as it will go in the slots, maybe retarding the timing that way will work...

Go to www.ch-ignitions.com down load timing instructions and dregree wheel. Time the spark not the magnet.

Ralph,

The zenoah ignition also come with a black wire called ground wire which is usually lacking on other brand of EI.

So what you suggest is that remove the plug cap and connect the wire directly to the plug end and the braid (the metal cloth wire that wrapping the ignition wire) should be connected to the engine casing.

Did I read it correctly? What about all those comment is plug cap is a must to reduce the interference etc?

TKG

Thanks for the info.

You can't fly it that way, just a test to see what the problem might be...you will need the shielded cap since the CM6 spark plug is not a rresistor type...The black wire must be an extra redundant ground....
All EI ignitions need a ground...All EI ignitions with the metal cap use the shield braid for the ground..
Must have been an afterthought in case the metal shield doesn't make a good contact...
Would be a good idea on the ignitions with the metal cap held on with a setscrew

Thanks ralph, I will test it out on bench and prolly get a shielded cap somewhere...