Brison 2.4 problems
#26
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My Feedback: (-1)
I got mine last Dec. and it has the C&H ignition with the white ring holding the pick up. I was told they changed over to one with A black ring and had some problems with it but C&H was changing them for people?? I don't think I'm having an ignition problem and the other ones I have seen like mine were all fine. I'm sure I'm having some sort of fuel/carb problem but I'm leaving no stone unturned at this point.
My only wish on this engine is that the needles were on the side instead of facing the front of the engine. A G-45 is so much easier to tune then this one. I know, I can turn the carb but then the linkage needs to be changed and they have one of the best linkage set ups I have seen on an engine.
I'll get it figured out but I just now have the time to play with it. I was just starting to move here when I finished this plane and never had the time to get it all set up before I left. I had other problems besides the engine but A new RX fixed all of that.
My only wish on this engine is that the needles were on the side instead of facing the front of the engine. A G-45 is so much easier to tune then this one. I know, I can turn the carb but then the linkage needs to be changed and they have one of the best linkage set ups I have seen on an engine.
I'll get it figured out but I just now have the time to play with it. I was just starting to move here when I finished this plane and never had the time to get it all set up before I left. I had other problems besides the engine but A new RX fixed all of that.
#27
Senior Member
My Feedback: (4)
After about one hour a running on 2.4 Brison when I went to full throttle it would start to miss unless I backed off the throttle. It just kept getting worst till I had to take the cowl off and found the white pick-up ring set screw had worked lose and the timming was off. Reset the timming by the degree's wheel and she runs perfect again. All this after I screwed up the carb settings that were ok to start with.
#28
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I found the time setat 35degrees advanced so I moved it back to 28degrees last night. And yes, I did run it and set the needles before checking the time so Iwill be turning screws again. My plan was to fly today and see what happened but the wind is starting to kick up so ground testing is about all I will do today.
I really want to get this plane up and running well so I can get the trim set and start flying.
I really want to get this plane up and running well so I can get the trim set and start flying.
#29
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From: Halifax,
NS, CANADA
Gray Beard keep the chin up you'll get it yet. The timing change may help you.
For those of you who may be interested, this is what the "NEW" Brison 2.4 looks like now. The ignition shown is an ignition noise reduction "UPGRADE" @ $45.00 US. Not sure if this "upgrade" is essential or not. The engine really has a much cleaner look.
For those of you who may be interested, this is what the "NEW" Brison 2.4 looks like now. The ignition shown is an ignition noise reduction "UPGRADE" @ $45.00 US. Not sure if this "upgrade" is essential or not. The engine really has a much cleaner look.
#31
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From: Halifax,
NS, CANADA
ORIGINAL: Bass1
Don, Is there a clamp to help secure the spark plug cap?
Don, Is there a clamp to help secure the spark plug cap?
I do not have the engine YET. These pictures were e - mailed to me by Cimmaster in Ontario, Canada who are now manufacturing the Brison & Revolution engines ( that's another story we all know about ). But to answer your question it looks like there is a "spring ring" around the metal boot in order to hold it on. I personally would use a gear clamp just in case.
This ignition upgrade was suggested by Cimmaster in cases where you may have radio interference with the standard type spark plug lead. I like it because there is no ground wire to hook up. I am considering another 2.4 and that is why I got them to e - mail me some pics. The ones on there web site depict the old style mechanical advance. Is the electronic any better ? Who knows. But apparently this is the only way they come now. With all the "cheaper" competition available now I'm not sure how they will fare. They are $450 ( engine & standard ignition ) + $45 ( optional shielded ignition ) + $96 ( Bisson pitts ) = $591.00 + shipping. Pretty expensive for a 40 cc engine [X(]
Are they that much better than the competition ? That's a personal preference I guess.
#32
Thread Starter

My Feedback: (-1)
Thanks Don and the chin is up and I have high hopes that everything I have done has cured the problem. The one time I got the engine to run right it was really A power house.
That ignition does clean it up but I always liked the looks of mine as it is. It had A better shine under the tree then the rest of the decorations.
I did have A BAD RF problem at first and went through everything and nothing helped. I went to A new PCM RX and problem cured. Move forward in time about 6 months and I was using that old RX to build A crash box and the antenna fell off in my hands!! Glitch found.
Sometimes when going through everything it should be taken A little farther.
What can I say ?? OOPS!!
That ignition does clean it up but I always liked the looks of mine as it is. It had A better shine under the tree then the rest of the decorations.
I did have A BAD RF problem at first and went through everything and nothing helped. I went to A new PCM RX and problem cured. Move forward in time about 6 months and I was using that old RX to build A crash box and the antenna fell off in my hands!! Glitch found.
Sometimes when going through everything it should be taken A little farther.
What can I say ?? OOPS!!
#33
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From: Halifax,
NS, CANADA
Actually I wish they still had the "old" type ignition and then if I buy another I could interchange things if I need to trouble shoot. Sound familiar
#34
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Trouble shoot?? Me??
Never got to see one with the old advance system.
Too much wind to go out today but I did fire it up. Just A little touch here and there on the needles and it's sounding better then it ever has.
I will post up after I try it out at the field if it runs OK now. Trouble is I have done so many things to it who knows what the fix was. I think it was just out of time and that was the last thing I checked. Still, could have been fuel draw??
I sure want to thank everyone for all the input, it was A big help just knowing I was on the right track.
Never got to see one with the old advance system.
Too much wind to go out today but I did fire it up. Just A little touch here and there on the needles and it's sounding better then it ever has.
I will post up after I try it out at the field if it runs OK now. Trouble is I have done so many things to it who knows what the fix was. I think it was just out of time and that was the last thing I checked. Still, could have been fuel draw??
I sure want to thank everyone for all the input, it was A big help just knowing I was on the right track.
#36
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From: Ft. Worth, TX
I have a Brison 2.4 on a 1/4 scale Taylorcraft and had the same problem as you and found out that it was the airflow into the carburetor. After I installed a velocity stack and experimented on its position I never had the problem again. Hope this helps
#37
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
The new type ignition will not provide any better noise prevention than a properly installed odler style. Some may have noticed that CH came out with the shielded plug wire, the same as this newer unit, quite some time back, still using the standard sized spark plugs. However, the new ignition does provide a means for the user to run a smaller CM-6 plug, which is often a bit more difficult for some to obtain. Makes for an easier "in cowl" installation with the shorter plug. Those that have the older CH ignitions can do the same thing by contacting CH to obtain the plug adapter and sending in their old ignition for a plug wire/cap conversion. You probably won't need the external shielding with the CH conversion, though.
I have to admit the the housing for the Hall sensor and the rotated carb body looks pretty good. Other than that, it appears to be the same engine it was before.
I have to admit the the housing for the Hall sensor and the rotated carb body looks pretty good. Other than that, it appears to be the same engine it was before.
#38
Thread Starter

My Feedback: (-1)
Got it!!!!!! After spending the time tweaking and peaking, changing things the beast started to run better, that's better, not well. I was almost there but it was always just off enough to run rough. Today I put some fuel line over the high speed needle and was able to get my fingers over it and get the traction needed while the engine was running. I leaned it in slowly until I found that sweet spot and it is now back to being A power house.
I'm going to keep flying it set like it is and with my 20X8 Zinger broom stick on it for A couple of gallons then start to switch props and see how well it's going to perform.
Didn't like having my hand that close to the prop but as long as I kept it behind the cowl I was OK. I only had to open the cowl A little to get my fingers in there and it was worth it.
Too bad it didn't come with A carb with the needles on the side and still have that nice linkage!
I'm going to keep flying it set like it is and with my 20X8 Zinger broom stick on it for A couple of gallons then start to switch props and see how well it's going to perform.
Didn't like having my hand that close to the prop but as long as I kept it behind the cowl I was OK. I only had to open the cowl A little to get my fingers in there and it was worth it.
Too bad it didn't come with A carb with the needles on the side and still have that nice linkage!
#39
fyi.... I couldn't get any power out of my brand new 2.4 swinging a 20 x 8 prop. I adjusted the needles and was very disappointed till I ended up cutting the tips off of the bisson side dump muffler. it was like night and day.
steve.
steve.



