[:@]Anyone out there ever seen a 3w engine run good?Transition decent?Not leak oil?Damn if i have!

Yep. My 55i on a pipe runs great. I did have an ignition issue that took a bit to sort out at fist. I have an 80xi-cs that only has 5 flights on it and it seems to be just fine

I've found the needles on both to be quite sensitive, much more than my DA engines. Once I figured that out I got them tuned well

I also have a 55i and like mentioned when you get the needles set it purrs like a kitten

I have a 3W106 and it's purred from the time it's came from the box. I have DA's as well. All are great engines.

Had a 50 that ran great and my friend has a 70 with no issues at all.

have a 106,60,two 50's and all run perfectly.you just have to know how to tune an engine properly

60, 80 twin, 80 single, 140..
They all run good.

Try using this PSPMFG - PSP Manufacturing Engine Test Stand to break in your engine.
http://www.pspmfg.com/ModelAirplaneE...estStands.html .

I never seen one that didn't run good. The older ones are particularly good, and smooth. The new ones had some ignition gremlins, but Bobby at Cactus, and Gerhard at Aircraft International correct them, no questions ask...

If you don't know the proper way to provide a lot of additional airflow to a gas engine mounted on a test stand you will destroy that engine in very short order. Very short! I know I'm not alone is suggesting that gas engines be broken in while in flight on the plane, not sitting motionless on the ground. Either on a stand or on a plane, static break in is a very bad thing to do.

I agree with Silver..not only do you get a heck of alot more cooling air in flight, the airframe itselft absorbs much of the vibration from the engine.
Just tune it slightly to the rich side, ensure correct breakin mix gas/oil, and fly it.
Bobzilla

I'll also agree with Silver and Bobzilla, never ever break in a gas engine on a stand. You simply cannot get enough cooling air to it and will overheat it in short order.

Offtofly,
My 3W-75I used to drive my DA flying buddy absolutely crazy because it stumbled and growled and made all kinds of noises in the mid-range and I have to admit I kept it that way just to drive him nuts. Motor could climb with a DA 100 for the first 300 feet then the DA would leave me, but as soon as the motor hit 7 gallons and was fairly broken in I switch to 40:1 oil and tweeked the needles and now she midranges perfect. 6950 with a Biela 26x10 and 1100 idle with a crisp Bark on transition to full throttle.

Good Luck

JDS

There's about 3-4 3w's floating around our feild and I have seen only problems,poor low and mid range and always trying to tweak and get to run right.All the DA's bolt on and run great right out of? the box.Are 3w's that hard to to tune?It seems that they all leak,also.I wish there was somebody around here to help tune one ,because 3w's are the laughing stock around here.

We have da-50 and 3w55, 3w60, 3w80xi, 3w85twin, 3w150twin.
So far the da-50 in 2 1/2 years has crashed 3-30%'ers due to quitting at very inappropriate times.
3W all running, no leaks, no problems.

P.s. the 3w can be a little finiky starting, but get a good prime and it will fire right up.

bobzilla

I run both brands, (DA & 3W0 and if the instructions are followed for starting and break-in you will have a fine model airplane engine. It's been my experience that "finiky engines" are usually the result of mis-steps in the breakin or setup proceedure. Of course there some actual experts, much more knowledgable than myself, on here that would have more in-depth and substantial comments on this. Further, based upon my experience with both companies, I'd arrange to send the engine in question back and they'd be happy to troubleshoot/correct any problems with it.

yep. the DA-50 got back 3 times, 2 retrofit with new carbs and then new carb block and some internal parts...all under warranty.
One thing you cannot deny, is the excellent service in and out of warranty that DA provides.

Last weekend, 3w55 took 42 flips to start. Idled great, transistion great, top rpm spot on. I'd call that finiky!

3W engines in and of themselves are not "finicky". If you're having a problem with a finicky 3W, look to the carb. Tuning a Tillotson takes time and a lot of patience. They also don't like to maintain a set position for some reason. Many have found that changing the carb to a Walbro has brought modeling nirvana to the nose of their planes.

In tuning carbs, wait until the engine warms up a bit before turning the needles. The larger 3W's don't warm up especially fast, so working the needles too early provides a false setting.

Off2fly,
There are a many reasons why someones motor does not run as advertised, I find that most are self inflicted and I include my self in that bunch. Some one told me along time ago "For those of you who read the directions this product works extremely well" and I find that sound advice.

Many of the rough running, kickback, popping and sagging motors were cured with the new ignition but that does not cure those who refuse to baffle their motors or refuse to defer to the 3W manual or refuse to listen to Gerhard or Bobby, refuse to run the right mix of oil or watch their head temp. Its all relative.

So dont give up on 3W they are mighty strong motors for the money

Good Luck

JDS

I'm with you on this one.

The only time I've seen a 3W not want to pull fuel is the carb block was leaking air where it bolts to the crankcase since there is no gasket there. Unfortunately, this is a somewhat common problem that is pretty easy to fix before you mount the engine. I forget the Locktite version number but it's more of a gel that does not harden. Cactus and AI use it on the CS versions to seal the carb block to the engine.

I originally had the same problem with my 55i pulling fuel but since I used the "gel" that problem has since gone away. My 80xi-cs has never given me a problem but then as I mentioned I do not have that many flights on it yet. From new it took 16 flips to get the first bark and since the first 10 minute flight it has always been close the choke, open the about 1/8th, flip until it barks, open choke, close throttle to idle and roughly 3 to 5 flips and she's running.

I've known other to do the ZDZ starting routine which is 5/5/1

Ignition off, open throttle to full, close choke, flip it 5 times
Ignition off, open throttle to full, open choke, flip it 5 times
Ignition on, close throttle to idle, open choke, flip it 1 time

Now if it's really cold out then on the last part, leave the choke closed, then after it barks open it and 1 flip later

Pat,

Do you know what model Walbro are people going to on the 55 to 80 size? Just curious

Bubbagates,

We have used the DA 100 walbro carb's on the 3W100's. I'm not sure about the 3W55. I know a 3W50 has a somewhat small carb venturi.. like 13 or 14mm's. A G62 Walbro carb has a 15mm venturi.

Dennis

Thanks Dennis

Ya know, I must be slow/lazy today. I can easily measure the venturi on the 55i and the 80xi and see for myself. DOH!!!!

My bet would be the DA50 carb would be a match for the 55i

I'm ready to give up on 3w ,Its been sent off 4 times and it just sucks,brand new.Wide open throttle it runs like a bandit(maybe good for racing) My da 100 has twice the power on low-mid than the 3w 150.I wonder what mod#walbro would rplace the tillitson?Every da I've seen came right out of the box and ran great.No tuning for hours and hours.