I just got my first gas motor, a Brillelli 46. The choke arm is going to hit the cowl and I don't really want to cut a hole in the cowl. I am not using a choke servo. so can I remove the choke?

Thanks

Yes, but you will probably void the warranty by doing so.

Carry a small squirt bottle of fuel with you in your field box and use that to prime the engine by squirting a shot of fuel into the carb throat before starting. That will get the engine started. If the engine starts, quits and then refuses to restart, give it another shot of fuel in the carb opening and then start the engine. You may have to do this three or four times on colder days. The choke does help the engine stay running (if you use it correctly) after starting initially, hence the need for reapplying fuel to the carb intake until the engine warms up enough to continue running without the choke. Oh warm days one prime may be all that you need.


Ed Cregger

I would not remove it compleatly. If you do, there will be holes in the carb. Also there is a ball and spring that if you do not get them out, the engine will suck it in. You are better off removing the arm that is in the way and using a steering arm or somthing like that. That way you can turn it out of the way. Chokes are nice to have. Not having it makes starting a pain. The choke makes it so much easier. No messing around, just choke it, turn on the EI, and flip until it pops. Then turn off the choke and flip it until it starts.

Ok I will keep the choke and just cut the cowl.

just run a bell crank on the side of the motor box and run a pusrod straight down exiting the bottom of the cowl

I have to agree with Scott.

I used to remove chokes, in my youth. Had to get that last single rpm out of an engine.

Over time, I realized that consistency is worth something too. Getting the engine to start, and then stay running is worth a lot more than a couple of rpm.

I'm an engine enthusiast. The airplane is just an engine holder to me. Lots of my planes do not have cowls, even if they came with them. I want the engine out in the clear where I can keep track of what is going on with it.

In my golden years, I have succumbed a bit to running a cowl on a plane, but I don't let it get in the way of good operation of the engine, if you know what I mean.


Ed Cregger

I had the same situation so I simply cut off the lever arm and JB Welded the head of a 8-32 or 10-32 socket head cap-screw to the choke axle (whatever you want to call it). Now I operate the choke with a ball end hex-driver through a small hole in the cowl.
[8D][8D]........RJ

Meant to attach this photo but didn't suceed on the first try

Hello,

I Bought a used brison 3.2 few months ago without the choke on it. Then I was just using my thumb to prime it. Starting was a pain as it was shutting down after few seconds. The problem was clearly a lack of fuel after 2~3 seconds. Even when warm was difficult to start.
I look everywhere for two months, rebuild the carb, messing up with the low & high end, looking at the tank, Checking ignition and battery and look for air leak. Never found anything until I decide to buy a new Carb on ebay for 10 $ (Walbro WT 76a). I put the new carb and was having the same starting problem. Then I decide to use the choke on the new one and then it was day and night. Now it does start like a charm.
I still try to understand!!! The only thing I have in mind is that with the choke usage is getting rid of some air bubble on the top of the lever-diaphragm. Did some of you have an explanation of this problem?

Thanks.

Like I said I am going to keep the choke and do what RJconect did. Good idea!

Here's how I do it.

Throttle arm is an old nose wheel steering arm.

Choke has a wheel collar and a 6-32 bolt that could be made shorter.

10 minutes, a few spare parts and VOILA, Instant choke and throttle linkage

Good idea! Here is what I came up with

Well I did mine like RJConnet and it worked like a charm. Now now hole in cowl and I retained the choke!