Here's another shot

I have one of the aluminum venturis as shown on the new ZDZ40 Rear Exhaust model -
Engine should be here next week - I am going to do a complete shakedown -on th bench and I will also try the nice filter you show - Thanks for the tip!
Once I tried the rear carb setup -I hate the though of anything else -but I had not found a filter I wanted.

I always wanted some way to filter the air, but like you, i couldn't find anything decent. A buddy made the straight stack for me. The filter slides right over it. It is not a real tight fit but it is snug. I still may put a rubber band around it and secure it to the choke shaft. It only weighs a couple of oz's and is of the paper design. I paid $6.95 canadian for it.(about $4.00us) VERY cheap insurance.

I agree with you on the rear carb design. It is the only way to go. I've had the cowl off of my cap after a couple of weeks of flying and there is all sorts of junk lying around in there. I just didn't want to have my engine digest any more than necessary.
ttyl

DH & Radman,
I know this is a little off topic but, what do you do to prevent fuel from getting inside of your fuse. Also, how do you get to your carb adjustments & choke. I'm seriously considering a rear mount carb engine but the hassels seem huge.

Hassels ?
No - the engine does not spit back fuel -but can -if overchoked drip excess.
I have run side carbs and rear and far prefer the rear setups now. the linkage is direct - if the engine is inverted, th needles are easy to access even with the engine running.
the problems with diaphragms needing vent tubes does not exist.
The cowl does not need a hole in the side as some cowls require.
For a new modeler with little or no woodworking skills yet- I can see where it may look intimidating.

Wings;
If you look at the pictures in this post and the other post with the air filter pictures you can see my carb. The ZDZ's are mounted inverted. the needles and choke shaft point up. All i did was silver solder some 4-40 cap screws to the top of the needles so they were just below the top of the cowl. On the top of my cowl i have 3 - 1/16" holes right above the needles. and to be honest, i didn't even have to do that as once the eng. was set i didn't have to touch them. To choke it i just use a 4-40 allan wrench. Same to adjust the needles. Some people use a micro servo to activate the choke and also as a emergency shut off.

Engine mounting:
If you can mount a side carb motor you can mount a rear carb just as easy. The only difference is that you now have a hole in the fire wall where the carb passes thru. Most airplanes that are designed for gas engs have the eng mounted to a box, which simplifies mounting. If you have a flat firewall, i block off the area just in front of where the wing bolts on. This stops any prop blast air from entering the inside of the fuse and possibly blowing your covering off. As for fuel entering the fuse i've never had a problem unless you flood the eng. (rare once you catch on to starting your eng.)
Check out pictures of different models and you can see how they have mounted their engs. mufflers,etc. You can get some great ideas from them.

Thanks for your info but what I am concerned about is the additional hassles of setting one up. DH I hope you really didn't intend this to be directed at me. " For a new modeler with little or no woodworking skills yet- I can see where it may look intimidating."

My concern has to do with the potential need to move the firewall or fuel proof the inside of the fuse, create a hatch where there is none, or making a large vent in the fuselage etc. As an example, here is a picture of my edge, and as you can see the carb on a ZDZ would end up half way in and half way out of firewall making adjustments difficult at best. On top of that I would need to make a hatch where there is none to get to the needles even if the firewall was not in the way. How about venting of the fuselage. I assume that you will need a vent at least twice the size as the carburetors venturi. I'm really just asking questions about what some of the potential problems might and what you have done to address them.

I was not poking fun at anyone-simply noting that some have just entered the hobby-Skills take time to learn.
The setup for a rear intake is not hard - If you leave the entire space at the top of the firewall open -there is no restriction in accessing the carb!
Look at my web site -I did a Edge when the H9 ARF first came out. Look in the Workshop hanger.
My website is listed in my profile in RCUniverse