*Brillelli 26-SSR*
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[img][/img]I had communicated a few times with Scott and then met he and Mark at Toledo where I made the purchase of the 26-SSR. The next day I mounted it on the Model Tech Dragon Lady that I love to fly. I sold the YS engine I had set up for the plane and many other four strokes. With the size and power of this little jewel why spend $20/gallon for YS 20/20 glow fuel?
I have emailed Scott and he is working into his busy schedule the building of a wrap around muffler for this plane. Yes I could go with stock but it would butcher the cowl and prefer to not do that and Scott being the great guy he is can fix me up. Scott said the XOAR type 18-6 will exceed 9000 RPM and that this baby likes to spin up. I mounted the ignition module in the roof of the fuel tank compartment as the front area of this plane is small. Anyone have any bad experience with doing that?
I'm now thinking of selling my other two gassers to go ALL BRILLELLI. Can't wait till the guys have time to make a 80-85 CC engine as I have a third scale plane that could stand some Brillelli power!
Enjoy
I tried to post two photos but guess that is more than my technical experience will allow!
I have emailed Scott and he is working into his busy schedule the building of a wrap around muffler for this plane. Yes I could go with stock but it would butcher the cowl and prefer to not do that and Scott being the great guy he is can fix me up. Scott said the XOAR type 18-6 will exceed 9000 RPM and that this baby likes to spin up. I mounted the ignition module in the roof of the fuel tank compartment as the front area of this plane is small. Anyone have any bad experience with doing that?
I'm now thinking of selling my other two gassers to go ALL BRILLELLI. Can't wait till the guys have time to make a 80-85 CC engine as I have a third scale plane that could stand some Brillelli power!
Enjoy
I tried to post two photos but guess that is more than my technical experience will allow!
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It must have been nice to walk in and buy a 26-SSR at a show, I ordered a 26 with some accessories on Feb 21 (a little over 9 weeks ago) and paid for it and still haven't seen anything yet.
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Scott took a handful of engines to the show to sell... you can't expect him to go to Toledo without any engines or there would be no point in spending the money on the trip or the booth.
I talked to him a couple days ago and he had a bunch of engines going out Friday and Monday.. he said he was starting to get close to getting caught up. If you have noticed he hasn't even been on here because he cant afford the time. He was on the phone with a customer Thursday and got 10 messages during that time. The problem is he will spend as much time on the phone with people as needed.. this is sometimes over 30 mins. If your phone rings 50+ times a day and 5 of those customers want to chat for 30 mins.. it really digs into the building engine times.
If you look at any Brillelli thread on any site you will know there is always a long wait for an engine after it's purchased.. this is just part of owning a Brillelli.. he just can't keep up with orders.
The good news is.. you will be very happy with the product.
I talked to him a couple days ago and he had a bunch of engines going out Friday and Monday.. he said he was starting to get close to getting caught up. If you have noticed he hasn't even been on here because he cant afford the time. He was on the phone with a customer Thursday and got 10 messages during that time. The problem is he will spend as much time on the phone with people as needed.. this is sometimes over 30 mins. If your phone rings 50+ times a day and 5 of those customers want to chat for 30 mins.. it really digs into the building engine times.
If you look at any Brillelli thread on any site you will know there is always a long wait for an engine after it's purchased.. this is just part of owning a Brillelli.. he just can't keep up with orders.
The good news is.. you will be very happy with the product.
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Well I just ran my 26ssr with a 16x8 3bld.I was getting 7900rpm. When I flew, around midrange it was a bit Burbally,when to full it cleared out. That a bit rich on the low end,correct? It has great power,It flew my 15+lb.KMP Typhoon at 1/2 throttle easily.. I hope to have a vid of it soon,our video guy in our club is getting it done..
Cya,
Frank
Cya,
Frank
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OKall you guys stop bothering Scott. I placed my order last week and will let you know when I receive it so you can start calling him again
.
I'm new to gassers and do have a question though for you Brillelli ownersthe web site refers to a "static nipple." What is it? My immediate plan is to install the engine in a 1/4 scale Sig Cub but will eventually look for more of a performance planemaybe a Wile Hare 73" Edge. A friend in Florida has one and can do a KE loop using on OS 1.20 for power. I have a Saito 1.80 in the cub now that I want to swap for the SSR.
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I'm new to gassers and do have a question though for you Brillelli ownersthe web site refers to a "static nipple." What is it? My immediate plan is to install the engine in a 1/4 scale Sig Cub but will eventually look for more of a performance planemaybe a Wile Hare 73" Edge. A friend in Florida has one and can do a KE loop using on OS 1.20 for power. I have a Saito 1.80 in the cub now that I want to swap for the SSR.
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ORIGINAL: FlyingGreg
OKall you guys stop bothering Scott. I placed my order last week and will let you know when I receive it so you can start calling him again
.
I'm new to gassers and do have a question though for you Brillelli ownersthe web site refers to a "static nipple." What is it? My immediate plan is to install the engine in a 1/4 scale Sig Cub but will eventually look for more of a performance planemaybe a Wile Hare 73" Edge. A friend in Florida has one and can do a KE loop using on OS 1.20 for power. I have a Saito 1.80 in the cub now that I want to swap for the SSR.
OKall you guys stop bothering Scott. I placed my order last week and will let you know when I receive it so you can start calling him again
![Big Grin](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
I'm new to gassers and do have a question though for you Brillelli ownersthe web site refers to a "static nipple." What is it? My immediate plan is to install the engine in a 1/4 scale Sig Cub but will eventually look for more of a performance planemaybe a Wile Hare 73" Edge. A friend in Florida has one and can do a KE loop using on OS 1.20 for power. I have a Saito 1.80 in the cub now that I want to swap for the SSR.
The static nipple you route a piece of Gas hose from it to the inside of your fuse. That way the pressure is the same in the carb.Inside the cowl the pressure can change. Inside the fuse it stays consistant.I wish I could be more technical about it,but Im a pretty simple thinker..
![Smile](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Im sure someone else can make it seem more technical.. Hello Jake, come and help a brother out!![)]
Cya,
Frank
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quote:
ORIGINAL: FlyingGreg
OKall you guys stop bothering Scott. I placed my order last week and will let you know when I receive it so you can start calling him again .
I'm new to gassers and do have a question though for you Brillelli ownersthe web site refers to a "static nipple." What is it? My immediate plan is to install the engine in a 1/4 scale Sig Cub but will eventually look for more of a performance planemaybe a Wile Hare 73" Edge. A friend in Florida has one and can do a KE loop using on OS 1.20 for power. I have a Saito 1.80 in the cub now that I want to swap for the SSR.
Hello,
The static nipple you route a piece of Gas hose from it to the inside of your fuse. That way the pressure is the same in the carb.Inside the cowl the pressure can change. Inside the fuse it stays consistant.I wish I could be more technical about it,but Im a pretty simple thinker..
Im sure someone else can make it seem more technical.. Hello Jake, come and help a brother out!![)]
Cya,
Frank
ORIGINAL: FlyingGreg
OKall you guys stop bothering Scott. I placed my order last week and will let you know when I receive it so you can start calling him again .
I'm new to gassers and do have a question though for you Brillelli ownersthe web site refers to a "static nipple." What is it? My immediate plan is to install the engine in a 1/4 scale Sig Cub but will eventually look for more of a performance planemaybe a Wile Hare 73" Edge. A friend in Florida has one and can do a KE loop using on OS 1.20 for power. I have a Saito 1.80 in the cub now that I want to swap for the SSR.
Hello,
The static nipple you route a piece of Gas hose from it to the inside of your fuse. That way the pressure is the same in the carb.Inside the cowl the pressure can change. Inside the fuse it stays consistant.I wish I could be more technical about it,but Im a pretty simple thinker..
Im sure someone else can make it seem more technical.. Hello Jake, come and help a brother out!![)]
Cya,
Frank
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The Carb. has 2 diaphrams.
One pumps gas and the other adjusts the Carb. for Altitude, Basicly.
It can be affected by air blowing hard on it.
On the non-gas side you install a nipple in the metal housing.
Then you install fuel line between the new nipple and the firewall.
(see Picture)
One pumps gas and the other adjusts the Carb. for Altitude, Basicly.
It can be affected by air blowing hard on it.
On the non-gas side you install a nipple in the metal housing.
Then you install fuel line between the new nipple and the firewall.
(see Picture)
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ORIGINAL: FlyingGreg
Thanks Frank. I do remember reading on another thread that guys would dirll a hole in the carb body and JB weld in a nipple or piece or 1/8" brass tubbing and run a line from the fuse to it, but I did not know what for. My only other gas engine burbles quite a bit in the mid range. I am expecting that to diminish as it gets more time and I ge the needles set correctly. If not, perhaps I will have to try this.
quote:
ORIGINAL: FlyingGreg
OKall you guys stop bothering Scott. I placed my order last week and will let you know when I receive it so you can start calling him again .
I'm new to gassers and do have a question though for you Brillelli ownersthe web site refers to a "static nipple." What is it? My immediate plan is to install the engine in a 1/4 scale Sig Cub but will eventually look for more of a performance planemaybe a Wile Hare 73" Edge. A friend in Florida has one and can do a KE loop using on OS 1.20 for power. I have a Saito 1.80 in the cub now that I want to swap for the SSR.
Hello,
The static nipple you route a piece of Gas hose from it to the inside of your fuse. That way the pressure is the same in the carb.Inside the cowl the pressure can change. Inside the fuse it stays consistant.I wish I could be more technical about it,but Im a pretty simple thinker..
Im sure someone else can make it seem more technical.. Hello Jake, come and help a brother out!![)]
Cya,
Frank
ORIGINAL: FlyingGreg
OKall you guys stop bothering Scott. I placed my order last week and will let you know when I receive it so you can start calling him again .
I'm new to gassers and do have a question though for you Brillelli ownersthe web site refers to a "static nipple." What is it? My immediate plan is to install the engine in a 1/4 scale Sig Cub but will eventually look for more of a performance planemaybe a Wile Hare 73" Edge. A friend in Florida has one and can do a KE loop using on OS 1.20 for power. I have a Saito 1.80 in the cub now that I want to swap for the SSR.
Hello,
The static nipple you route a piece of Gas hose from it to the inside of your fuse. That way the pressure is the same in the carb.Inside the cowl the pressure can change. Inside the fuse it stays consistant.I wish I could be more technical about it,but Im a pretty simple thinker..
Im sure someone else can make it seem more technical.. Hello Jake, come and help a brother out!![)]
Cya,
Frank
Cya,
Frank
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The diaphram comments have pretty much covered it... all teh carbs have the mod already just run some tubing into the fuse.
As far as the burbling that means it's not tuned properly, while there are several methods the main one I use is ac follows:
#1 Adjust high needle with tac so you can find the point where max rpm is obtained.
#2 Once max rpms are obtained then back off 150-200 rpms.. meaning richen the high needle.
#3 Tweak the low needle until you get to the point when you move the throttle quickly it stumbles... now you are too lean on the low needle.
#4 Back out the low needle 1/16 of a turn at a time until the throttle response comes back.
#5 Now you should be able to go to 2500-3000 rpms and hear no burble - if you do the l needle is a hair too rich.
#6 Once you have finished doing the low you need to go back and doublecheck the high needle.
If you change oil mixture and props you will sometimes need to fine tune your engine again, as well as as it gets some gallons on it.
The key to tuning an engine is knowing that 1/16 of a turn can be a big adjustment.. make tiny adjustments and take your time... in the end you will need to fly it and listen to how it sounds and fine tune from there.
As far as the burbling that means it's not tuned properly, while there are several methods the main one I use is ac follows:
#1 Adjust high needle with tac so you can find the point where max rpm is obtained.
#2 Once max rpms are obtained then back off 150-200 rpms.. meaning richen the high needle.
#3 Tweak the low needle until you get to the point when you move the throttle quickly it stumbles... now you are too lean on the low needle.
#4 Back out the low needle 1/16 of a turn at a time until the throttle response comes back.
#5 Now you should be able to go to 2500-3000 rpms and hear no burble - if you do the l needle is a hair too rich.
#6 Once you have finished doing the low you need to go back and doublecheck the high needle.
If you change oil mixture and props you will sometimes need to fine tune your engine again, as well as as it gets some gallons on it.
The key to tuning an engine is knowing that 1/16 of a turn can be a big adjustment.. make tiny adjustments and take your time... in the end you will need to fly it and listen to how it sounds and fine tune from there.
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ORIGINAL: Jake Ruddy
The diaphram comments have pretty much covered it... all teh carbs have the mod already just run some tubing into the fuse.
As far as the burbling that means it's not tuned properly, while there are several methods the main one I use is ac follows:
#1 Adjust high needle with tac so you can find the point where max rpm is obtained.
#2 Once max rpms are obtained then back off 150-200 rpms.. meaning richen the high needle.
#3 Tweak the low needle until you get to the point when you move the throttle quickly it stumbles... now you are too lean on the low needle.
#4 Back out the low needle 1/16 of a turn at a time until the throttle response comes back.
#5 Now you should be able to go to 2500-3000 rpms and hear no burble - if you do the l needle is a hair too rich.
#6 Once you have finished doing the low you need to go back and doublecheck the high needle.
If you change oil mixture and props you will sometimes need to fine tune your engine again, as well as as it gets some gallons on it.
The key to tuning an engine is knowing that 1/16 of a turn can be a big adjustment.. make tiny adjustments and take your time... in the end you will need to fly it and listen to how it sounds and fine tune from there.
The diaphram comments have pretty much covered it... all teh carbs have the mod already just run some tubing into the fuse.
As far as the burbling that means it's not tuned properly, while there are several methods the main one I use is ac follows:
#1 Adjust high needle with tac so you can find the point where max rpm is obtained.
#2 Once max rpms are obtained then back off 150-200 rpms.. meaning richen the high needle.
#3 Tweak the low needle until you get to the point when you move the throttle quickly it stumbles... now you are too lean on the low needle.
#4 Back out the low needle 1/16 of a turn at a time until the throttle response comes back.
#5 Now you should be able to go to 2500-3000 rpms and hear no burble - if you do the l needle is a hair too rich.
#6 Once you have finished doing the low you need to go back and doublecheck the high needle.
If you change oil mixture and props you will sometimes need to fine tune your engine again, as well as as it gets some gallons on it.
The key to tuning an engine is knowing that 1/16 of a turn can be a big adjustment.. make tiny adjustments and take your time... in the end you will need to fly it and listen to how it sounds and fine tune from there.
Right now,if I go from idle to full,it has a little lag then picks up. That sounds a bit rich eh? Ill try what you suggested next time out and see how it goes. Like I said on the high end Im getting 7900 with a 16x8 3 blade. Maybe ill try to lean it up more..
Thanks Jake,
Frank
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Tac is really the best way.
If it stumbles as in it's loading up and trying to clear itself out before or during the transition then yes it is rich. If it just wants to die than it's lean.
You should be able to leave it alone for a good minute and not have it load up.
If it stumbles as in it's loading up and trying to clear itself out before or during the transition then yes it is rich. If it just wants to die than it's lean.
You should be able to leave it alone for a good minute and not have it load up.
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OK Guys. I feel I need to let you all know one of the main reasoins delays have been longer than normal the past few months. I just got back from the doctors office. I found out I have type 2 diabetes. A couple of the syptoms atr extreme fatige and blurred vision. I have had both for some time now but did not know why. Because of this I was not able to work nearly as much as normal and that put me more behind. That combined with some supply problems. The good news is, with diet change the problems will go away in a short time. I am very sorry for making some of you wait as long as you have. I had no idea what was wrong with me until today. But things will get back to normal now in a short time. I just felt I owed you all an explination.
Thank You,
Scott Ellingson
Thank You,
Scott Ellingson
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I got the chance to run a few more tanks through mine today. Also changed to the 18X6, and I'm sure the engine can pull the wings off my plane. I still need to work on the idle just to be able to taxi under control.
Any one tried any after market mufflers, although I like the performance, I think the stock muffler will be too loud for my field.
Hey Frank how do you like that 3 bladed prop? Which one are you using?
Any one tried any after market mufflers, although I like the performance, I think the stock muffler will be too loud for my field.
Hey Frank how do you like that 3 bladed prop? Which one are you using?
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ORIGINAL: ledsled
I got the chance to run a few more tanks through mine today. Also changed to the 18X6, and I'm sure the engine can pull the wings off my plane. I still need to work on the idle just to be able to taxi under control.
Any one tried any after market mufflers, although I like the performance, I think the stock muffler will be too loud for my field.
Hey Frank how do you like that 3 bladed prop? Which one are you using?
I got the chance to run a few more tanks through mine today. Also changed to the 18X6, and I'm sure the engine can pull the wings off my plane. I still need to work on the idle just to be able to taxi under control.
Any one tried any after market mufflers, although I like the performance, I think the stock muffler will be too loud for my field.
Hey Frank how do you like that 3 bladed prop? Which one are you using?
The muffler is pretty loud. Maybe more pitch would quite it down some..I still have to keep the idle high until its broken in also. I wish the KMP 3 blds. werent so expensive. Their very nice looking.
Here's a video of it pulling around my Typhoon..
http://youtube.com/watch?v=bQ4qqRq7oDI
Cya,
Frank
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Any muffler that fits a G26 will fit my engine. I can also make a muffler for it that is quieter. I made 3 different mufflers for it origionally and the one I chose was in the middle of noise and power. I can make it a little larger and run the exahust pipe in to quiet it down. It would not drop much power, but would be a little heavier.
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ORIGINAL: Scott Ellingson
Any muffler that fits a G26 will fit my engine. I can also make a muffler for it that is quieter. I made 3 different mufflers for it origionally and the one I chose was in the middle of noise and power. I can make it a little larger and run the exahust pipe in to quiet it down. It would not drop much power, but would be a little heavier.
Any muffler that fits a G26 will fit my engine. I can also make a muffler for it that is quieter. I made 3 different mufflers for it origionally and the one I chose was in the middle of noise and power. I can make it a little larger and run the exahust pipe in to quiet it down. It would not drop much power, but would be a little heavier.
In my application extra weight would be more welcome,since I have such a short nosed warbird,and have about 3lbs of weight in the front of the cowl..
Thanks Scott,hope your feeling better....
Frank
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Frank.. man that plane looks really tail heavy and a handful because of it haha.
Your low end is really rich in the video.. seems to 4 stroke at any throttle except wide open. Give her a tweak and let the engine come to life )
Your low end is really rich in the video.. seems to 4 stroke at any throttle except wide open. Give her a tweak and let the engine come to life )
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ORIGINAL: Jake Ruddy
Frank.. man that plane looks really tail heavy and a handful because of it haha.
Your low end is really rich in the video.. seems to 4 stroke at any throttle except wide open. Give her a tweak and let the engine come to life )
Frank.. man that plane looks really tail heavy and a handful because of it haha.
Your low end is really rich in the video.. seems to 4 stroke at any throttle except wide open. Give her a tweak and let the engine come to life )
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If you can snd me a pic of the engine installed, I can come up with somthing I am sure. It will be a little heavier, but it sounds like that will not be a problem. It will be quieter as well. There needs to be space behind the head for the muffler. A good 1 3/4". I use 1 1/2" pipe for that. I could use square tubing to make it a little less like 1 1/4" for some clearence.
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ORIGINAL: Scott Ellingson
If you can snd me a pic of the engine installed, I can come up with somthing I am sure. It will be a little heavier, but it sounds like that will not be a problem. It will be quieter as well. There needs to be space behind the head for the muffler. A good 1 3/4". I use 1 1/2" pipe for that. I could use square tubing to make it a little less like 1 1/4" for some clearence.
If you can snd me a pic of the engine installed, I can come up with somthing I am sure. It will be a little heavier, but it sounds like that will not be a problem. It will be quieter as well. There needs to be space behind the head for the muffler. A good 1 3/4". I use 1 1/2" pipe for that. I could use square tubing to make it a little less like 1 1/4" for some clearence.
Ill take a look at that later when I get back from the field..
Thanks Scott,
Frank