Engine causing servo glitches
#27

My Feedback: (221)
Once again, keep all engine/ignition components including the battery and switch, as far from the RX components (including the throttle servo) as possible. This means mounting the throttle servo behind the wing tube with the other components, and not in the cowl. The farther away, the better.
#28
He said his servos were new. The 'KEY" here is that he has a Fuji engine. For some moronic reason, Fuji has seen fit to NOT supply thier engines with shielded spark plug wire or metal cap. I have the same engine and the same glitching. The only thing that got it under control was to take some shielding from coax cable and put it over the wire and cap and then solder a wire to it and ground it to the engine. It is very frustrating to have such problems and Fuji does nothing but say 'send in your engine and we'll look at it'. Why they don't retrofit the engines with shielding is beyond me.
#33
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From: Adel,
GA
Yeah, tell me about it. I'm using plastic pushrod on the throttle, my ignition and batt are in the cowling, my rx switch and ignition switch are about 14" apart and I'm using a voltage regulator. I also used heavy duty sero wires and twisted them. I just ran a short piece of stainless steel braided line from the spark plug and grounded it to the engine. I'll let you know how it comes out.
#34
Senior Member
I have been following this thread, because you never know when you might learn something that may save you from pulling one's hair out!LOL!!
If you are using a regulator between you battery and switch, pull the thing and try again with out it. I built 2 new planes, decided to use 6 volt batteries, with a regulator. Bad idea, both planes went nuts, I had tried everything, down to changing each servo one at a time, I pulled the regulator and both planes have been rock solid. If you haven't considered the regulator, try it, and I hope it works!!
Dale
If you are using a regulator between you battery and switch, pull the thing and try again with out it. I built 2 new planes, decided to use 6 volt batteries, with a regulator. Bad idea, both planes went nuts, I had tried everything, down to changing each servo one at a time, I pulled the regulator and both planes have been rock solid. If you haven't considered the regulator, try it, and I hope it works!!
Dale
#35
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From: Omaha, NE
ORIGINAL: soundzgood
Yeah, tell me about it. I'm using plastic pushrod on the throttle, my ignition and batt are in the cowling, my rx switch and ignition switch are about 14" apart and I'm using a voltage regulator. I also used heavy duty sero wires and twisted them. I just ran a short piece of stainless steel braided line from the spark plug and grounded it to the engine. I'll let you know how it comes out.
Yeah, tell me about it. I'm using plastic pushrod on the throttle, my ignition and batt are in the cowling, my rx switch and ignition switch are about 14" apart and I'm using a voltage regulator. I also used heavy duty sero wires and twisted them. I just ran a short piece of stainless steel braided line from the spark plug and grounded it to the engine. I'll let you know how it comes out.
#36
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From: Adel,
GA
No, I just have the rubber cap that came with the ignition. I just ran the engine again after running the braided wire and it seems like my glitching has gone away.
#37
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From: lAWTON,
MI
Where did you attach the ends of the braided wire and approx. size of braid? I have some small stuff that is about 1/8 inch wide flattened out that I could try but I have no idea what you did.
Thanks, Jim
Thanks, Jim
#38
The only time I have had glitches with a 2.4G system is when there is a spark leak some were like on the spark plug cap, check for spark leaks
#39
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From: Adel,
GA
This is about 1/4" wide braided stainless steel wire that I used a hose clamp to attach to the hex head part of the spark plug, from there I ran the wire with the spark plug wire using zip ties to hold it in place and then grounded it to one of the engine mounts.
#41
ORIGINAL: soundzgood
This is about 1/4" wide braided stainless steel wire that I used a hose clamp to attach to the hex head part of the spark plug, from there I ran the wire with the spark plug wire using zip ties to hold it in place and then grounded it to one of the engine mounts.
This is about 1/4" wide braided stainless steel wire that I used a hose clamp to attach to the hex head part of the spark plug, from there I ran the wire with the spark plug wire using zip ties to hold it in place and then grounded it to one of the engine mounts.
Good Ideal Fool proof I would say, some times you think the cap is on all the way wheen it really isnt
#42
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From: bushkill, PA
I just tried it. so far on the ground every thing is checking out fine. next weekend i'll see if it works in the air. If it doesen't the plan will be kill the motor and dead stick it in.
#43
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From: lAWTON,
MI
Went to a jet rally this weekend and picked up a 2.4 setup and that took care of the problem, not the way I wanted to go but it worked. I'm also going to ground the plug as you did to clean up the air around the plane, this is so bad it could leak over to others if thats possible?
Thanks for the info, Jim
Thanks for the info, Jim
#45
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From: bushkill, PA
yes it seems to be the case. just flew it this weekend, THE GLITCHES ARE GONE. grounding the spark plug did the trick




