Anyone using the FROMECO Fail Safe Reliaswitch
#1
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This switch system replaces the more standard type switch with a pinned red flag just like a real plane that when removed makes the system hot. When the pin is put back in the system is cold. You can see it at
http://www.rcshowcase.com/ Click on "accessories" and then "switches" to see it. I would like to know if anyone is using this system and what they think of it.
http://www.rcshowcase.com/ Click on "accessories" and then "switches" to see it. I would like to know if anyone is using this system and what they think of it.
#2
Splais;
I make my own using a NC(Normally Closed) socket and Jack wiring the hot lead between the two pins on the NC socket. Insert the Plug Jack and it disconnects the system. Cost $3.00 for two (2) sets). When I get off work I'll take a photo series on the construction. With some of the Radio shack numbers of the NC & Jack Part #'s
I make my own using a NC(Normally Closed) socket and Jack wiring the hot lead between the two pins on the NC socket. Insert the Plug Jack and it disconnects the system. Cost $3.00 for two (2) sets). When I get off work I'll take a photo series on the construction. With some of the Radio shack numbers of the NC & Jack Part #'s
#3

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From: Wilsonville,
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Hi Splais,
Yes, I have used them and I'm using two now in my DP Extra. A regulated one on the ignition(I'm using 6v Duralites) and an unregulated one on the receiver. They are very good quality and work perfectly. The flag mechanism is unique, and looks cool when the flags are in. Functionally it is a bit of a pain to keep track of the pins when out, but that's only when you're flying, so you're not going to lose them, you just need someplace you put them each time so you can get to them easily at the end of the flight.
I would not hesitate to recommend them.
Yes, I have used them and I'm using two now in my DP Extra. A regulated one on the ignition(I'm using 6v Duralites) and an unregulated one on the receiver. They are very good quality and work perfectly. The flag mechanism is unique, and looks cool when the flags are in. Functionally it is a bit of a pain to keep track of the pins when out, but that's only when you're flying, so you're not going to lose them, you just need someplace you put them each time so you can get to them easily at the end of the flight.
I would not hesitate to recommend them.
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From: Wilsonville,
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Great idea Jack! I'm going to do that myself. I'll just put a little piece of red Velcro on the flag and stick the other part on the transmitter. I do think the transmitter is the right place since you really want the pins with you when you retrieve your plane, and not back in the pits.
Thanks for the idea.
Bill
Thanks for the idea.
Bill
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From: Wilsonville,
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>>A self portrait, perhaps,??????
Very funny jemo. I guess it's time to change it again. That avatar was in response to another thread that went totally off subject and got into pets no less, so I responded by sharing by recently departed pal.
He's only temporary....and no that isn't me, I don't have quite that much hair.
Very funny jemo. I guess it's time to change it again. That avatar was in response to another thread that went totally off subject and got into pets no less, so I responded by sharing by recently departed pal.
He's only temporary....and no that isn't me, I don't have quite that much hair.
#8
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I'm interested in this switch, however I'm concerned that I'm not going to get the performance/speed out of the servos at the regulated 5.2 volts (only .4 volts above a 4.8 volt pack). A 5.7 or 6.0 volt regulator would be a better option I'd guess. I'm new to giant scale. Any thoughts from the seasoned giant scalers (refering to experience...not age...LOL)?
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From: Wilsonville,
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Hi OnTheEdge,
>>however I'm concerned that I'm not going to get the performance/speed out of the servos at the regulated 5.2 volts
You're right, you wouldn't, that's why, as you'll see as I mentioned in my earlier post, that I'm not using their regulated switch on the receiver. There is no need to regulate the power to the receiver(s). Current receivers and servos are rated to handle the voltage of an unregulated fully charged 6 volt pack....typically a bit over 7 volts when fully charged depending on what type of batteries you're using.
I would only feel completely comfortable doing this on high-end servos, not cheap low-end ones, or older servos.
>>A 5.7 or 6.0 volt regulator would be a better option I'd guess.
I don't know of any of the commercial regulators that regulate to that high a voltage, but they might be out there, but as I mentioned you really don't have to worry about it.
>>however I'm concerned that I'm not going to get the performance/speed out of the servos at the regulated 5.2 volts
You're right, you wouldn't, that's why, as you'll see as I mentioned in my earlier post, that I'm not using their regulated switch on the receiver. There is no need to regulate the power to the receiver(s). Current receivers and servos are rated to handle the voltage of an unregulated fully charged 6 volt pack....typically a bit over 7 volts when fully charged depending on what type of batteries you're using.
I would only feel completely comfortable doing this on high-end servos, not cheap low-end ones, or older servos.
>>A 5.7 or 6.0 volt regulator would be a better option I'd guess.
I don't know of any of the commercial regulators that regulate to that high a voltage, but they might be out there, but as I mentioned you really don't have to worry about it.
#10
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Hi Bill,
I heard and have read dozens of post on this and other RC web sights that discussed how the JR 8411 servo jitters on the high voltages of a freshly charged battery. Many modelers have had much success regulating them down with a regulator. The Jaicco 5.7 volt is a common one that many have mentioned. I do agree that today's receivers and most servos work fine with this extra bit of juice but the ever popular 8411's don't. I guess I could get the plain switch and then regulate after the switch...???
I heard and have read dozens of post on this and other RC web sights that discussed how the JR 8411 servo jitters on the high voltages of a freshly charged battery. Many modelers have had much success regulating them down with a regulator. The Jaicco 5.7 volt is a common one that many have mentioned. I do agree that today's receivers and most servos work fine with this extra bit of juice but the ever popular 8411's don't. I guess I could get the plain switch and then regulate after the switch...???
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From: Wilsonville,
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Hi OnTheEdge,
Yes, you're right they do...but it doesn't hurt anything, it just buzzes. I had 8411's on a 40% Carden Cap unregulated without any problems. They did buzz on full charge, but I never saw any signs of problems with their performance.
>>The Jaicco 5.7 volt is a common one that many have mentioned.
Now that you mention them I have seen people using the Jaicoo switch....but I'll stick with unregulated. I like what 7 volts does for the servo performance and I've never had any problems. I've used this voltage on Futaba, JR, Hitec and Multiplex servos without any problems.
FYI, certain Multiplexes (Powers and Jumbos) are rated for fully charged 6 cell packs...but they warn about reduced life. This is also true of running 7 volts. 7 volts will cause your servos to have shorter life...but is the reduction in life meaningful? I personally haven't run into a problem and many people I know run without regulators, and also haven't run into problems that could be attributed to running unregulated.
Yes, you're right they do...but it doesn't hurt anything, it just buzzes. I had 8411's on a 40% Carden Cap unregulated without any problems. They did buzz on full charge, but I never saw any signs of problems with their performance.
>>The Jaicco 5.7 volt is a common one that many have mentioned.
Now that you mention them I have seen people using the Jaicoo switch....but I'll stick with unregulated. I like what 7 volts does for the servo performance and I've never had any problems. I've used this voltage on Futaba, JR, Hitec and Multiplex servos without any problems.
FYI, certain Multiplexes (Powers and Jumbos) are rated for fully charged 6 cell packs...but they warn about reduced life. This is also true of running 7 volts. 7 volts will cause your servos to have shorter life...but is the reduction in life meaningful? I personally haven't run into a problem and many people I know run without regulators, and also haven't run into problems that could be attributed to running unregulated.
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From: Wilsonville,
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Hi Jack,
Nice simple looking setup. Just to clarify, this is not a regulated system you're building, just an "always on" switch, correct? The voltage showing on your charger might mislead some people into thinking this is a regulated system.
That's a great alternative switch if you have the time, skills and easy access to the parts. Believe it or not it is worth it to me to pay the extra $27 to let someone else do it for me, just because I don't have the time to track down the parts and then wire it up....oh, and did I mention I'm lazy.
I'm sure this would be a great alternative for a lot of people.
Nice simple looking setup. Just to clarify, this is not a regulated system you're building, just an "always on" switch, correct? The voltage showing on your charger might mislead some people into thinking this is a regulated system.
That's a great alternative switch if you have the time, skills and easy access to the parts. Believe it or not it is worth it to me to pay the extra $27 to let someone else do it for me, just because I don't have the time to track down the parts and then wire it up....oh, and did I mention I'm lazy.
I'm sure this would be a great alternative for a lot of people.
#19
Bill;
I understand completely. I use thes in Q-500's and QM 40's as well sport aircraft. I love the simplicity as I hate complicated charging system's. But I mostly detest over priced simplicity. A common NC Socket and a a Jack works the same as a Dang near $40. alternative. Direct connection to the Receiver and the battery eliminates Loss and resistance thus the charge/discharge rates are nearly the same as original designed equipment.
I understand completely. I use thes in Q-500's and QM 40's as well sport aircraft. I love the simplicity as I hate complicated charging system's. But I mostly detest over priced simplicity. A common NC Socket and a a Jack works the same as a Dang near $40. alternative. Direct connection to the Receiver and the battery eliminates Loss and resistance thus the charge/discharge rates are nearly the same as original designed equipment.
#20
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From: Elk Rapids, MI
I have one of these on my 27% Edge. I had some problems with it due to corrosion but it was replaced promptly and without any hassles at all.
Please keep in mind that while the Radio Shack jack and plug will do the job, it is not even close to the same thing as the Fromeco units. If this switch fails.......crash. The Fromeco unit uses a solid state Regualtor or Switch depending on which version you use. If the mechanical portion of the reliaswitch were to fail, current would continue to flow. It fails to "on". Fromeco's website has tons of technical information as well as the break down of their cost to produce (!). Take a look and decide for yourself...I did.
-Aaron
Fromeco
Please keep in mind that while the Radio Shack jack and plug will do the job, it is not even close to the same thing as the Fromeco units. If this switch fails.......crash. The Fromeco unit uses a solid state Regualtor or Switch depending on which version you use. If the mechanical portion of the reliaswitch were to fail, current would continue to flow. It fails to "on". Fromeco's website has tons of technical information as well as the break down of their cost to produce (!). Take a look and decide for yourself...I did.
-Aaron
Fromeco
#21
I would like to know a few things about theses "Reliaswitches" before I spring for some.
1. Does this switch, in any way, affect a pulse conditioning battery charger like the Sirius Charge?
2. Are the connectors compatible with JR/Hitec?
3. If used on the ignition of a gasser, is it easy enough to get the pin inserted if an emergency required it ?
Jack Laird
1. Does this switch, in any way, affect a pulse conditioning battery charger like the Sirius Charge?
2. Are the connectors compatible with JR/Hitec?
3. If used on the ignition of a gasser, is it easy enough to get the pin inserted if an emergency required it ?
Jack Laird
#22
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Another way..Locate a Dean's charging socket..Take a 3 pin Dean plug, connect the 2 close pins together..Wire the socket as a through connection to one of the battery wires...Pin in, ON, pin out, OFF...Cheap and positive...Only problem is when you forget to bring the pin.....
Pretty hard to reach ANY switch on a gasser in an emergency, although a toggle is the easiest...
Pretty hard to reach ANY switch on a gasser in an emergency, although a toggle is the easiest...
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From: Wilsonville,
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Hi Jack,
1. No.
2. Yes.
3. Refer to rcign's answer....if you're worried about this, you should install a separate, remote method to kill the motor; servo controlled micro-switch, electronic kill switch, or servo controlled choke.
1. No.
2. Yes.
3. Refer to rcign's answer....if you're worried about this, you should install a separate, remote method to kill the motor; servo controlled micro-switch, electronic kill switch, or servo controlled choke.
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From: Glen Robertson, ON, CANADA
Originally posted by Scorpionjack
Just a comparison thought you would like to see the the same thing for 1/10 th cost.
Just a comparison thought you would like to see the the same thing for 1/10 th cost.
You basically rely on the contacts being made in a spring load fashion, just two contacts touching as hard as the spring will let it.
Doesn't that worry you? I not being negative, just concerned with current and vibration. I would likt to use this also.



