jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

Here you go Rocky, It will run the way you have it but it will drip much more fuel out the carb when you choke it. Looking at your photo again I also noticed that you used both carb screws at their original length. You'll notice that on the short side of the manifold the screw hits the manifold before it gets tight, tightening it completely may break the manifold or worse, cause it to crack giving you a small air leak that could produce running quality problems that are difficult to troubleshoot and or track down. I cut about an 1/8 inch off one of the carb screws for that side.

Bipeman, the problems you encountered are the reason we don't sell the engine in it's kit form. All those issues are not passed on to the end user, they get an engine thats ready to fly.

SRimer

I have noticed that you are using Rcexl ignition, does it work better then the original one? does the engine come with an auto advance ignition? or it is fixed timing.

Gunner

My Feedback: (4)

I received the replacement muffler today from Agape Racing. I must say these guys are great to work with . He actually answered the phone at 7PM on a Sunday and shipped the product within days. I will let you know how it holds up. If this one fails, i wll revert to the factory one. I just hate having to cut away MORE cowl!!!!

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

Oops, you weren't supposed to see that. The GF40I comes with an auto advancing ignition system and they work just fine. That picture is of a test engine that has underwent many experiments and countless hours of running.

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

Got my crrc 40cc today, thanks Jody. That picture looks a lot like what I got . Anyway, got to make some standoffs to the cowl.
Edwin

ROCKY1405

My Feedback: (6)

Jody: Thank you for the photo and the "Heads Up" help. Man, this hobby is a fascinating adventure for sure! I'll rotate that manifold and check to be sure I didn't crack it when that bolt touched the manifold. Also, it'd be fun to hear what everybody is using this engine to fly. I'm in the market for suggestions about what to put this motor on.
Thanks again!!!
Rocky [8D]

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

Mines going in a GP Yak. The DL50 I had in it was too heavy and made the gear sag and I busted a couple of props. Only had about 1/2" ground clearance for the prop. Should be good now since it was only ment for a 40cc anyway. The DL50 is going in a future Yellow Spitfire project. The Yak is just for playing with. I'm more into sport and scale.
Edwin

bipeman-RCU

My Feedback: (16)

A quick update on the resolution of my problems... my tap came in from MSC and I was able to clean the offending thread. I believe that there may have just been a cutting or other foreign crud in the thread as all that was required was a "finger twist" of the tap (no tap handle needed). It is likely that a good blast of compressed air would have taken care of it. In any case, two out of three issues solved. Waiting for my magnet from Montana!

ROCKY1405

My Feedback: (6)

Jody: Thanks to you, I got my engine's manifold installed correctly and also shortened that one carb mounting bolt so it no longer touches the manifold. Luckily, it did not crack the manifold.
Thanks again for the help!
Rocky [8D]

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

Whats the plug gap on the BPMR6F.
Edwin

ROCKY1405

My Feedback: (6)

I finished building the engine test stand and when the weather cooperates I'll see if I can get this motor to run. Here's how it looks ready to go.

ROCKY1405

My Feedback: (6)

Edwin: I checked the plug gap on the plug that came with it and it was about .028 and I figured I'd try leaving it at that and see what happens. on my Q-42 and G-38, .030 was what was working fine so I suppose its about the same. [8D]

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

Need some help. I havent been able to get my 40cc started. Its not firing at all. Plug is wet. Same fuel I just used on my G62, 32:1. I can hear the click and am getting a very weak spark. Seems to me the spark should be hotter, can just barely see it. I'm using a starter to turn the engine over. Battery is 2150ma 4.8v, fresh charge. I tried a 6v with the plug out and didnt notice any hotter spark than with the 4.8v. The original gap was .014" and some research suggested .020" so I set it at that. Still no help. I was gonna try my DL50 ignition but the connectors are different, didnt want to go that route yet. I emailed valley rc last night, havent gotten a reply yet. Just antsy, cause I might not get much time to work on it this week. Any suggestions?
Edwin

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

Check your email Edwin.

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Jody,
Got it started, your ignition test in the email showed it was a good strong spark. I'm embarrased to say it was my throttle linkage. It was set too close to closed. Opened up a little more and it started popping and then started. I'm good. I'll fine tune the carb probably thursday. (Working from home can suck sometimes). Thanks for the help.
Edwin

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

Sometimes you just need to step back and evaluate. After getting it started the first time I redid my motor mount to beef it up. After that, same starting problem. Seemed like no spark at all, but when testing for spark, there it is. About an hour into working with it I just by passed the ignition switch and she fired right up. Looks like the root cause of my problem was the switch. Bought a new one today and will be done with that nonsense. I have the ignition switch servo controlled to provide a second means to kill the engine. The engine seems to have good pull, and is easy to flip start. Just have to tune the carb for my location and I'm ready to go. Cant wait to get it in the air.
Edwin

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

Good work Edwin, you're making my job easier!

Bladejunkie

jedijody,maybe you can help me,I was out flying this past Saturday and everything was going fine tearing up the sky,and doing touch and goes.I had done about six or seven touch and goes,and was coming in to land as I touched down the engine stopped.I figured it ran out of fuel,so I started refueling well it didn't take much fuel before it was full.I tried to start it up for some more fun,but it would not start up.The engine sputtered and popped but wouldn't start.I tried everything but it wouldn't start,then I moved the throttle to about half throttle and it started.It will run fine from half to full throttle,but if you go below half trottle it will die.I've checked the fuel system(put new tank and fuel lines in)it's got a pretty good blue spark just by spinning the prop slowly,also charged up my ignition battery(4200mah 4.8v)plug looks good and is gapped at .028.I'm at a loss any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks Jim.

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Blade,

First, don't take this wrong but is this an engine that you assembled or one that I assembled. It could be an air leak or a blockage in the carb. If you assembled the engine, did you notice that one of the carb bolts goes through the mounting flange and hits the intake before it gets tight?

Bladejunkie

jedijody,I built this engine,and the bolts don't hit the intake because I used shorter bolts.I've run about two and a half gallons of gas through this engine without a problem so it's kinda weird that it just started having this problem.I forgot to mention that I took the carb apart,and found nothing out of the ordinary.Maybe I'll try a carb off of one of my conversion engines,so I can rule out a carb problem.Also I'm going run the ign. direct off of it's battery with no switches in line(manual and opto controlled from trans)to rule an electrical problem.That leaves the cdi unit as the problem,can they fail and do what mine is doing or do they just quit working altogether?

Thanks Jim.

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

Good catch on the carb bolts, believe it or not you are the first person I've talked to that has caught that. Obviously not your first rodeo. If you haven't yet you might try taking the needles out of the carb and blasting carb cleaner through the fuel passages backwards. I've never seen any CRRC ignition module do that, they, just quit or go intermitant but the engine won't run. You say that you are using an optical ignition kill switch? I have seen those (42% products) do some goofy stuff and that symptom would not surprise me at all, cold solder joints can make things act very strange indeed. Eliminate everything but the battery and module and test. If it works okay like that, add the manual switch and retest, then the remote switch. Should be able to track it down by the end of that.

bipeman-RCU

My Feedback: (16)

As for the "Carb Bolt Length" issue they were not too long as supplied with the motor I received from Abell Hobby in December. In fact they do not protrude past the holes at all. Perhaps they made a change. The only way the bolts might be too long is if you left off the horn.

Re my issue with the ignition pick-up magnet being missing from the prop hub - Abell Hobby sent me a new hub. This after having the kit over three months before assembly. So, don't believe it when someone tells you there is no support for these Chinese engines! It seems they have some viable products and are coming around on support...

Plus I have seen this particular engine WAY OUT-PULL a ZDZ 40 at my field. The performance change in the plane was amazing!

I will be picking up a CRRC 50 from Jody's company soon!

Gunner

My Feedback: (4)

My carb bolts were the correct length too, no problems here.

I tried to run my CRRC again last weekend and after a quick start it ran and stopped. After nearly dislocating my shoulder trying to start it for again 15 mins or so we found it had a faulty hall effect sensor... No Spark!! The wire broke inside right where it goes into the molding. This is a fairly week part but can be reinforced with a bit of high temp silicone. This is a $6.00 part from paragon so i order a few spares. I also picked up a velocity stack for $3.00 at paragon for my SPE 26. should help smooth out the middle range.

As Bipeman pointed out there is a lot of support and parts availability for these engine. So far I am so impressed I almost bought a 50cc, and I don't even have a plane to put it in!!!!

ROCKY1405

My Feedback: (6)

Thanks for the tip on reinforcing the hall sensor! I thought that part looked a little bit on the flimsy side. I wonder how many guys have broken that part by setting the engine down on it after they got it assembled? If you set the engine down in the upright position w/o support it rests right on that sensor. [:@] I made up a foam support and put it under the prop shaft for when I want to set the motor upright on the bench. I don't have an airplane for mine yet either - I guess that means we are typical R/C pilots. We have airplanes we don't have engines for and engines we don't have airplanes for.

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

That doesn't make you an RC pilot, that makes you a pack rat. Good job on the sensor, I have several that don't work, may start doing that on the ones I assemble. Thanks!